looking at timing chain /tensioner guide kits on ebay . I like to save some money, but I don't want a cheap chain that is going to break!
first question is are the original chains themselves bad or has anyone just changed out the plastic tensioners and guides , and left the oem chains alone ?
second question is there a recommended inexpensive set (brand) that is good?
Thanks

 

I think a large percentage of folks here just change the secondary tensioners and leave the OEM chain alone. They are probably good for 150k+ miles.

Same answer if you are also changing the primary tensioners and guides, but if you have it torn down to that extent, it might be worthwhile to go ahead and swap the chain. Save the labor down the road.

Can't comment on quality of chain/tensioner kits.

 

I replaced the chains as well as the primary and secondary tensioners. I was told that if the guides are bad, it may stretch the chains. Since I had to change all of the tensioners, it mad sense to also change the chains. I got the chains from Christopher's Foreign Parts. I don't remember how much they were, but Christopher was a wealth of information. I also rented the cam lock and harmonic balancer removal tools from him.

 

that's one of the ebay deals I was looking at $475 for EVERYTHING chains , guides , tensioners, all the rubber . sounds almost too cheap?

 

How long ago did you do your John . I've ordered the tool all ready . how was the job to do ? any advise?

 

If you really need to change the chains Christopher's parts were used by several members in the past few years and I don't recall seeing any posts indicating a quality issue.

But like Mike indicated in post#2, the majority have just replaced the secondaries if the chains look okay. The primaries are not subjected to as high a temp. and are not as likely to fail, nor would they result in serious engine damage. The guides can be inspected to some extent with the cam covers removed.

Replacing the secondaries with the zip tie method is a quick and easy job for the average mechanic.

 

besides lots of noise on start up, takes a few seconds to get oil pressure up. oil pressure also drops off ( warning on dash comes on) at idle when fully warmed up. don't the tensioners on the primaries split as well ?
I am thinking I have split tensioners and that's were my oil pressure is going

 

Couple issues here. Taking a few seconds to get pressure up is an indication that you have an oil filter without a check valve . . . or . . . you have a worn engine. It is not a clear indicator that you have tensioner problems other than they are plastic. Determine what brand filter you have and verify that it has a check valve.

No, the head temperature is much higher than the front of the block and the primary tensioners are not usually cracked. It is usually the primary chain slippers that fail before the tensioners.

You need to stop posting, stop cranking the car and pull a valve cover for inspection and replacement of the secondary tensioners at a minimum. If you want to rebuild for the long run just do it.

 

Depending on the level of your mechanical ability and knowledge, become familiar with the procedure as outlined in the JTIS Workshop Manual.

Unless the primary timing chains, guides and tensioners have already been replaced, it is 'false economy' to just replace the secondary tensioners given the age of the vehicle. Quite often the plastic guides for the primary timing chains are cracked or even broken.

Search the forum for threads on replacing the timing chains in the 4.0 litre AJ-V8.

 

Another reason for low oil pressure is bits of plastic from the tensioners and chain guides clogging the oil sump. You should drop the oil pan as part of the service and clean the sump.

From the start-up noises and low oil pressure it sounds as if you could be on the verge of engine failure. It is time to stop driving this car until you get this work done.

 

I've ordered the whole kit from christopher's. If I'm going in, I'll do the whole job . I have some experience and understanding ,I've been a professional transmission rebuilder for 30 years .
makes sense to me that if there's cracks in the oil system this could be why low oil pressure .
This car has only been running for about 1 month since I towed it home . so far I have fixed the trans , abs module , intermittent no start .
was going to do a LS conversion but have decided to scrap that plan !! so now doing the chain and tensioners

 

whitexkr, I haven't looked at pulling the oil pan without pulling the motor, is that an option?

 

test point ,I'll look at the oil filter tomorrow. Thanks

 

The pan is easy. Just remove the X-member brace. Be careful torquing the pan screws. Follow the sequence in the JTIS and don't over tighten.

 

As RJ said, there is absolutely no need to pull the engine.

 

I removed the oil pan without taking the x brace out. There is enough room. When the oil pan was out, that's when I found the large pieces of primary guide in the sump pump. I know at that point I needed to do the primary tensioners and guides.

The job is not hard, just time consuming. Hardest part for me was getting the harmonic balancer off. Make sure the flywheel is locked and use as long a torque wrench with a helper pipe as you have.

Here are some photos.

 

Job is all done!! New chains ,tensioners , guides , gaskets &seals , oil pan is cleaned out , new motor mount, trying to clean out the motor with seafoam( I don't think the previous owner ever changed the oil).
All seems good, smoother running, quiet start up . On the next update, I think I'll replace the thermostat housing .

 

Congratulations. What condition were your primary tensioners and guides in?

 

the primaries were not so bad, guides were broken up, one secondary tensioner was completely gone . chain was riding just on the post. we think it actually jumped a tooth.I'm glad I did the whole job , not just the secondaries.

 

Lucky you caught it before any major problems.