Did I mention this is going to be expensive?

I took my car into the dealer for alignment today, and they fixed the toe... so that helps. I was getting negative camber in both front and rear.

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It is bad enough to cause uneven wear on the sneakers. Dealer says there is a shim kit for the rear to help that end, but the front requires just a bit more work...and parts.

According to my service guy, there is no camber adjustment in the front, and the springs and mounts 'set' the camber in the car. The national backorder on these strut mounts is being filled monday or tuesday, and he has quoted me $2540 parts and labor to repair. [sm=yikesomg.gif]

Somebody please tell me i'm doing the correct thing here. Did I say please?

 

Hi Matt:

$2500 to fix front and rear camber is way too much money. Furthermore, from your description, I have no ideawhat they are going to do for you?? What are "strut mounts"? Our cars have shocks and springs which mount to the unibody ontop;and the lower control arms on the bottom.

The rear camber is adjustable by using OEM shims, which push the drive axle outward, thus pushing the top of the rear wheel to the outside. The shims come in two (2) thicknesses; 3mm and 7mm? or something close. These shims cost about $20-25 ea. http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/merchant....=V8Cars_Diff_5

A small amount (<.5") of front camber can be corrected using an eccentric fulcrum bolt on the lower wishbone (lower control arm). Turning this eccentric bolt will pull the wishbone assy inward towards the center of the car; and results in pulling the bottom of the wheel inward also. The wheel becomes more perpendicular and negative camber is reduced. I am pretty sure this is the p/n:JZB100086 then they are $16 ea. at Jag Porsche Las Vegas http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214626

The JTIS has more information on the front eccentric bolt and its usage. The steering rack must be dropped a few inches for this bolt to be exchanged.

If I were you, I would either get a clarification on what your dealer is going to do; and/or I would get a second opinion from an independent jag shop. I think your camber problems are a result of worn springs sagging which has the effect of increasing camber.For the amount of money the dealer is charging, I think they are going to replace the front springs with new OEM parts to bring everything back into camber spec. However, if they do that, then I think the front end will be higher than the rear end???

Gordo

 

Oh my! Thanks for the es-planation, and the shims are what the recommended for the rear I will bring up the fulcrum bolt idea that you proposed and see if he can show me in his JTIS software. I will have the car a few days before the parts are in, so that will help me clarify just a bit. I do have to call Ken@british to see what he has to say as well. thanks so much gordo!

edited because I meant rear, not front

 

Here is what I ended up with at the dealer, toe supposedly straightened out, but it still pulls, most likely from the leaning to the Front Left

Camber Ride Height Jag Spec
(deg) (in) Camber RH


Front L -0.8 14,88 -1.18 to -0.18 15.74
R -1.4 15.25 -1.30 to -0.30

Rear L -1.3 16.13 -0.9 to -0.1 15.94
R -1.0 16.25 ditto

To be continued...

 

I'd guess that the pull is just from the tire wear, which will be a constant until the camber is corrected. Gordo's suggestion of the eccentric bolts for the front and halfshaft shims for the rear will bring the camber into range, and that's as far as I would go. Have the final setup done with the new tires on the car,then have them recheck the finalride height numbers.

I don't think I'd justify the expense of replacing springs based on the numbers you have now...unless the rears continue to grow (?).

 

Good advice ohio, i'll consider dropping the mounts from my service request...when they call me back.

 

This site is a good explanation of different terms and concepts relating to suspensions and alignment. gordo

http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Cas

 

Good link Gcat... after reading, I think my scrub radius is different, and thats why i'm still pulling. lol

 

Finished the suspension repairs at the dealer, and they got my car back into spec, with just a little to spare on the camber. The toe is fixed, and with the new tires, the car drives and feels great. We'll see in about 10,000 miles if all the repairs saves the inner edge tread. Overall body height increase was 0.75" (with new tires, of course)

Parts replaced:
[ol][*]Upper Shock Mounts[*]Lower Shock Bushings (not suggested by Jag, but heard it was a good fix while in there anyway)[*]Eccentric Fulcrum Bolts[*]Rear Shim Kit[/ol]Amazingly, my tech flew on these repairs. It took him only 6 hours to replace all the parts and do a final alignment. Alas, my invoice showed 14 hours of time at $115 an hour... so I can only assume he got a good bonus that day. I got a shuttle ride to/from work, and they were really nice about all of the repairs - taking the time to explain what they could and could not fix.

Here is the final spec sheet from the alignment. Sorry, but I don't have all of the original specs that went along with the crazy camber numbers above...remember, they did the 1st alignment, gave me the estimate...kept the ticket open, then did the repairs and performed a last alignment. So, the before isn't really my "Before", its the middle (pre-repair) status...basically, as much into spec as possible without all of the new parts.



Love my new tires!!