I found this on EBay and I think I will go this route. Cutting a hole in that think does not sound like fun. And soldering is not one of my high skill functions. What are you doing at M.95? Let me know what you think.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2003-J...MAAOSwyYFaBNsehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2003-J...MAAOSwyYFaBNse

 

Not a bad price that reflects how easy it is .

Modernizing and upgrading the whole cockpit and wiring of a 767 and was a simulation final test with the pitot / static test equipment . 700 engineering changes from engineering drawings to make it work on the prototype . Only got to fly one once on a non - revenue flight as I fixed it away from base .

 

Sounds like fun. Got to go an get current in the Long EZ early next week. Will try to pick a day without a bad cross wind like I had the last time I fly. That little airplane doesn't like cross winds.

Thanks for your help.

 

Decided not to use this service in California to fix the module. If they screwed it up I would loose a very expensive part with only a $45 refund. Not sure how I'm going to do this. Got to get the darn thing out of the car first.

Later

 

If you drill the hole you can take it to a cellphone repair shop as they have the skill sets to do it . The cap that you put non to seal it looks like the ones used in shipping in their package round aircraft electrical connectors .

You did notice the specific location for the X100 hole is different then the X300 and maybe the X308

Other option would be a appliance repair shop .

 

Where is this module (and corresponding sensors) located?

 

Mem, it's attached to the anti-lock brake pump next to the power steering pump on driver's side. Sensors are attached to the wheel hubs.

 

EZ when I soldered my power terminals it only lasted a day or two. Just unplug the two-wire plug to the pump and that shows you where the terminals are located on the interior side of the circuit board so you can drill a 1" hole in the correct location. Re-soldering works for others it seems, but didn't work for me. Good luck, it's worth a try.

John S.

 

Thanks for the cell phone idea. But right now the problem is getting the assembly unbolted and moved inboard enough to remove the module. Evidently some coolant got under there and froze the bolts. I have bolt solvent working on them now. But I believe I will have to remove the brake lines to get the module out. That will have to wait as I have another car project in the way where I would put the Jag so it doesn't have to be moved to get the airplane out.

But, what I would really like to do is someway deactivate the ABS warning system and just forget about the damn ABS. I don't need it the way I drive and could then get through the state inspection. Lady, you are pretty smart in this area. How do I do that.

 

What does the ABS light have to do with Texas State Inspection???
Maybe no one in my area cares about that is because I live in a County that is not considered NON-attainment??(We don't have emissions testing)

Do they check the ABS in your area??

bob

 

Well, I guess my assumption was passed on ABS being a safety system and therefore would not pass inspection if it didn't didn't function. After all the first inspection I had after buying the X300 it failed because the gas cap could not be inspected due to them not having the right fitting. And again one time since then. The guys I go to now don't check the cap. I'll talk to them and see if ABS is a problem.

Thanks Bob

 

Safety in TEXAS is secondary to EMISSIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Several State legislators have proposed eliminating safety inspections but would obviously still need to have emission testing in non-attainment Counties. (the EPA sees to that!)

Most 'safety inspections' seem pretty lax and testers seem disinterested in my County.
As long as the lights, wipers, and horn work, you are good to go!!

bob

 

I'm not that smart . The brake pressure lines pass through the ABS module and just guessing the individual brake pressure lines are metered or biased with the 4 electrohydraulic valves . If you remove power from the EH valves will the 4 brakes be balanced ? . With the switch off , or as a failsafe mode in a operational system you would assume so .

Someone with more practical experience would know better then me on deactivation for this vehicle . On aircraft we pull the circuit breakers in their design .

On a side note my father had a Bellanca Citabria that he put small clearance wheel pants on . When he got off to the side of the asphalt runway a piece of asphalt jammed in the small clearance steering him into a open T - hanger that was occupied . He was fine but both airplanes were not .

 

I wouldn't think it would be any different than it is now with the light and warning on all the time. I just want the light and warning to stop showing up. I don't know if it affects state inspections or not. I will find out.

 

If you unplug the module the speedometer and odometer stop working. The brakes keep working ok. I put black tape over the warning light until I replaced the module with a junkyard part. In Massachusetts I had no problem passing inspection with the warning light on.

 

Hello again,

I got the car inspected with no problem even with the ABS light ON. So I have put off fixing the darn thing so I can fix other things on other vehicles that are a problem.

But, a good INDY friend of mine told me that the problem could be caused by a front wheel bearing going bad. Is there any reason behind this idea. The car only has 66K miles on it and I would not think a front wheel bearing would be going bad that soon.

I always respect your input my friends.

 

Certainly not common, and I'm having a hard time making a connection.

 

Ezdriver, it is my experience that yes a bad bearing can cause ABS warning, but it always flags Trac/ stability control too.

In these cases ABS resets with ignition cycle off on, then driving for 100 feet or so above 5 or 10 mph. The fault caused by bearing will not reoccur until you make a turn just right so the alignment of the speed sensor gear/pickup is misaligned.

Nutshell: IME bearing caused abs fault always includes trac/stability fault. Time and driving straight will not throw this fault if bearing related.

Hohn

 

When I put the key in the ignition and it does a scan the ABS light stays on and I get two messages, Trac Not Available and ASC Not Available. This is the way it stays all the way through engine start and driving. Of course I can clear the messages but not the ABS light.

Feeling the wheels they feel solid as hell.

Does this help

 

Not the bearing IMO then mate.

John