My '99 XK8 with 154,000 miles had the transmission rebuilt at 118,600 miles in August of 2011. It was a total professional rebuild. Today I received the "transmission fault" warning while stopping after interstate driving. The car seems to start off slow and will not shift into top gear as the rpm are a little high, 3000 at 70 mph. I will pull the codes tomorrow and update. Any ideas as to the problem? I do not want another rebuild expense!
Help!! I love this car!

 

Update - pulled the codes and have 2. P1746 Pressure control solenoid A, open circuit and P1384 VVT solenoid A malfunction. I cleared the codes and see what pops up today. Hope it it not the transmission fault code!

 

I realize this is an older post, but can you share what the end result was? My '97 XK8 just did the same thing last night. I do not have any codes yet but it is like I am stuck in low gear and the Transmission Fault light is on. Fortunately I made it home and the car is in my garage.


Thanks!

 

I drove mine for about another 2 weeks two weeks before it self distructed! I had a used unit installed as I was unhappy with 40k out of a rebuild. Good luck!

 

My '06 XK8, 70K miles, started to remain in 1st gear until I stopped the car and turned ignition off. Upon restart it would be fine for 10 minuites or 2 months. Dealer says it is shot, wants to sell me a used unit installed for $6K! Any thoughts? You like a used better than a rebuild? What is a realistic cost?

 

My mechanic located a used transmission for $1,350.00. Charged me $600 to install it. Good luck!

 

That price seems a lot more realistic! Good luck! I have located a respected transmission shop, claims to have expereince with this tranny, will start to try a repair before a rebuild. I think dealers do not have expertise for a repair, and if the fault seems mechanical they push for a replacement, which is a one-day job. I will keep everyone posted on my ordeal...

 

Hi, on my 1999 coupe I bought it knowing the box " slipped " a couple of times with the P.O.
I found out while driving it home 350 miles that it tripped out with a fault and was the range sensor. My indy changed the oil but it still bumped now and again. I bought a secondhand box with supposedly 37k on it if memory serves. I had intended fitting it last year, its still waiting as I found this year when taking it out of hibernation there was no problem, as yet... I was wondering if after having the battery disconnected and memory cleared this could be a link to the bumping? Its not happened yet but I feel sure it will and wondered if it could be linked? Odds on its the " A " drum as this seems to be the normal failure item when these conditions prevail. By the way my autobox cost £275 and my Indy said it would be £200 to fit it. As the oil was changed on my box as a precautionary measure, and cost over £100, I will probably ask for it to be drained and put in the replacement box as it will be newer.
Hope you guys resolve your box problems soon.
Cheers

 

Arty, when most people change transmission fluid they don't drain the torque converter (I think your MY has the drain plug for this though and others after 99 I think don't). Unless you can confirm this was done then when they refilled/changed the pan oil it was only roughly half of capacity.. which means since then driving has mixed the old and new together. I'd highly recommend you use new fluid. Of course this is a individual decision.

 

Update on my '06 XK8 trans issues: looks like a worn valve body contributed to burned out clutches. Lots of "coffee grounds" in the pan. Starting on a complete rebuild. At 70,000 miles? Fine German engineering? Or just bad luck? Now waiting for parts!

Sounds like I am not the only Jag owner with ZF issues though.

 

I dont think the torque converter was drained, as you say, as it took 6ltrs of oil. However the oil in the secondhand box is a red/brown colour, hopefully that indicates its in reasonably good condition. The oil in the original box was black, however it did not have a burned smell. I will see what the Indy says and let you all know how it turns out when I get it done. Still testing everything at this time.

 

Well, after scouring the forum for tips, it looks like I will need to take the Jaguar in to be repaired. For those of you following this post, is it worth going to a Jag shop to get the work done? There is a reputable transmission place in San Diego that works on all types of transmissions and guarantees the work. I have a good friend that takes his cars and business vehicles there and has for years with great success. Are there any little 'aha' things I may not know about that warrants going to a Jag specialist?


Thanks for any thoughts you might have on the subject.

 

It's hard to offer help when you don't report the codes. Were it mine I would visit a foreign car specialistable to read the transmission codes before making any major decisions. Bring the codes back here, not the interpretation.
It could be as simple as low fluid or a fluid change.

 

Sorry to hear about your issues. The 6hp26 generally has been a very reliable and durable transmission. I have not heard of any forum members having such major issues on such low mileage (and few issues regardless of mileage) with the zf 6 speed. I think you just got "lucky". I would not bring it to my dealer only because I know that my dealer would only want to replace with a new transmission. I would bring it to a reputable transmission shop, or consider a used lower mileage swap. One concern I would have with a rebuild is getting to the true root cause of your problem, it it really identified, or missed? That my opinion on this.

 

If I had to go to the time and expense of having a ZF 6HP26 rebuilt, I would ask my selected shop to fabricate and add a decent dipstick / fill tube as part of the job. That would allow me to consistently monitor the level and condition of the ATF like I've always been able to do with every one of my previous vehicles. It would also make the ATF drain-and-fill process just another routine service....

I know that a dipstick / fill tube kit is available from an aftermarket source for the ZF 5-speed box. It attaches at the fill tube (where the 5-speed box supposedly has more working room than the 6-speed box does). I hope we'll have one for our 6-speed box eventually....

 

My wife's 2004 XJ8 showed her a "transmission Fault" yellow warning and she immediately brought it home and shut it off. When I read the codes per the OBDII All I found was a P1316 and P1111. It also had a few miscellaneous cylinder misfire codes.

I started it and let it warm up and worked it through the gears and then drove it for about 5 miles. No trans warning at all. We have had the car for 4 yrs and put ~30K on it and never serviced the tranny. Car has 72K right now and I don't know when the trans fluid was changed last.

Is this likely just a sign that it needs fluid changed or signs of bad things to come?


Thanks for you help in advance.
Mike

 

It may just be the first indication of a weak battery. Stop at a auto supply and have them load test the battery and check the alternator.

 

Update on my '06 XK8 trans rebuild: had it back on the road for three weeks, the shifts are consistent, no flares; and no leaks; so far so good. If a tranny shop has an experienced rebuilder (talk to them a while and you will get a sense of this) then a rebuild seems to be an attractive alternative to a used replacement. This shop has rebuilt several ZFs. Still had to tow to the local Jag dealer to have the computer set up. I now have a new confidence in this car, but fingers firmly crossed! Before, I could hardly enjoy a drive due to concentrating on every shift. The transformation is dramatic, planning a road trip!

 

deacon,

Who did your rebuild? How many miles on the original ZF before you had issues? And what problems were found?

 

If the gearbox is rebuilt, then the 'mechatronics' (TCM/valve body) needs to have the 'adaptation' cleared or it may have shifting problems. It might behave poorly because it adapted to the failing components.

You should then go through the 'learning-procedure' for correct shifting.

I had a customer with a leaking 6HP26 plastic pan (low fluid level) and it slipped and banged while driving.
She was told by a repair shop and the local Jag dealer that a new or replacement gearbox was the only option. They never lifted the car to look!!!! Just read the codes and pronounced diagnosis.

I replaced the pan/filter and topped up with Lifeguard 6 but it shifted like 'crap'!!!
I used my WDS to 'clear adaptations'. I drove the 'learning procedure' and it still shifts fine after several years of service.

Sometimes a second (or third) opinion helps.

Using the correct diagnostic equipment helps also. Reading the ECM will likely not tell the story. Reading all the modules gets a better picture.

A used gearbox that is in good condition might not need adaptations cleared???

bob gauff