The A/B Trip Odometer Control above and right of the main instrument cluster doesn't work at all. It doesn't light up with the other instruments, and everything else around it works fine except for the lighting in the climate control panel is burned out.

Is it powered separately from the main cluster through its own fuse? Couldn't find one on the 2002 fuse chart.

 

It's possible that the connector on the back worked it's way loose. If it was my car, I'd start troubleshooting by removing the wood piece around the instrument cluster and checking to make sure it's plugged in. For instructions on how to remove that wood piece, see my video on replacing the bulbs behind the instrument cluster.

 

Thanks Sam. Could I disconnect the trunk release button (and not the fuel door button) that my knee always hits when I'm getting into the car? Drives me nuts!

 

Reviewing the wiring schematics;
The Trip Odometer is a stand alone switch (5 wires) to reset the A/B trips. I agree with Sam, probably a wire loose or bad switch. It inputs into the Major instrument 25 pin module for processing.
Fuel Filler/Trunk Release. Actually two switches with common ground when activated. Goes through body processor module. Yellow wire/ red tracer is the trunk release. Yellow wire is fuel door. Deactivated yellow/red wire should disable trunk release. Trunk button on trunk goes through Security & Locking Contol Module. Should not be a conflict.
Knowing Jaguar's electronics, special emphasis on the word SHOULD.

 

Thanks Jag. Is there a fuse I could pull that has the trunk release on it before I disconnect it? I tried 18 and 14 in the driver's fascia box for the instrument cluster, but they weren't it.

 

Since the switches are only a signal ground for those two inputs on the body processor module, there would not be a fuse for those circuits. Just pull the plug on 'em.

 

Can the button mount be pulled out from the front of the panel?

 

As OregonJag states, the trunk switch, when depressed, connects to ground to activate the trunk release.
Fuse #5, 15 Amp in the Fascia Fusebox, Drivers Side described as Body Processor module (5V logic and lamps) should cut power to the portion of the Body Processor controlling the trunk switch; however, the switch does not have a dedicated fuse to deactivate the operation.

 

Found it, thanks Jag.

 

If you want to deactivate the trunk switch, simply pull back the covering on the lid, the plug (white) will be staring at you and disconnect it, the easiest way IMO

I have done exactly the same with the car aerial, had a customer who wanted a switch fitted but said the $100 I was going to charge him was too much! Could I do anything cheaper? I pulled the plug on the aerial, radio still worked, he was happy...ish, I charged him $40, he complained about that, I then told him I can out of business on my own without his help and showed him the door

 

Thanks Tony, I'll give that a try.

 

Tony, I pulled the white plug (after pic taken) and noticed that it also depowered the trunk lid button, which I like a great deal. Is there some way to wire the the trunk latch to still recieve the signal from the trunk button but not the driver's?

 

Hmmm, pulling fuses will not help as that will have the same effect as pulling the plug.

There is only one sure way I can think of, cut the orange and grey wire behind the buttons! You could easily put a connector in to make it operational again when ever you wished

 

Starting in 2003 Jaguar recessed the buttons further...hmmmmm, now we know why.

 

Yeah, they were a little slow on that one, like with the timing chain guides. What do you think, Steve? How can I route those wires in the trunk to disable the driver's release button and keep the trunk button alive?

 

XKRacer, orange and grey was for pre-2000 cars. Skid Mark, for your 2002, you need to cut the yellow/red wire at the trunk/fuel switch, and reconnect the connector in the trunk lid.

Leave enough wire on each end, and crimp on some insulated quick connect terminals, so you can reconnect it easily later if you ever want to. Alternatively, wire a little single pole toggle swicth in series with the two wire ends, and you can switch on when you want the button to function or not.

 

Looks like pulling the plug didn't disconnect the driver's button. My knee hit it today and the trunk popped open. So I have reconnected the plug to get the trunk button back, and I am back where I started. Both wires that go into the back of the trunk release come out of the plug, so the signal from the driver's switch must come from another wire not visible?

 

Yes, the trunk button is a completely separate control path from the button on the dash. I can see why that did not work.
See my post above about cutting the yellow/red wire at the dash switch.

 

Why don't you just upgrade to the 2003+ button?

 

Found the wires. I took the bolster and wood panel off in prep to go after the trip odometer, which turned out to be unplugged. I left the wires alone after seeing Ed's message, and put it all back together.

Is the 2003 redesigned switch the answer to this problem? How much does one go for?

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