XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Trip Odometer

 
  #21  
Old 11-20-2011, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark View Post
Found the wires. I took the bolster and wood panel off in prep to go after the trip odometer, which turned out to be unplugged. I left the wires alone after seeing Ed's message, and put it all back together.

Is the 2003 redesigned switch the answer to this problem? How much does one go for?
According to the parts catalog it is the same switch. I am guessing they just recessed the mounting collar in the dash in the later years. My catalog does not show a separate part for the collar, but you can always check with a dealer to be sure.

I have a question...do you only have the problem when getting in the car when the engine is off? If so, you can cut that yelow/red wire, and connect the contacts to a relay. Then power the relay from a nearby ignition +12v source (such as tapping into the cigarette lighter connections)....that way the trunk switch will only work with the ignition on.

If you want I can make you up a little kit with Posi-tap connectors and a relay for a nominal charge. Let me know if this interests you.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 11-20-2011 at 08:56 PM.
  #22  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR View Post
According to the parts catalog it is the same switch. I am guessing they just recessed the mounting collar in the dash in the later years. My catalog does not show a separate part for the collar, but you can always check with a dealer to be sure.

I have a question...do you only have the problem when getting in the car when the engine is off? If so, you can cut that yelow/red wire, and connect the contacts to a relay. Then power the relay from a nearby ignition +12v source (such as tapping into the cigarette lighter connections)....that way the switch will only work with the ignition on.

If you want I can make you up a little kit with Posi-tap connectors and a relay for a nominal charge. Let me know if this interests you.
Yes, almost every time I try to get into the car with something in my hands I must be compensating in a way that brushes my left knee across the switches and most of the time both the fuel door and the trunk open.
So I think the new collar would help, and I'll ask around the dealerships and get the word on that. If it's too expensive I'll either snip the wires or try out your harness. How's the temp/pressure gauge project coming?
 
  #23  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark View Post
How's the temp/pressure gauge project coming?
I have your triple gauge cluster, plus a main cluster I purchased. It is clear from some inspection that the gauge motors on both can be easily unplugged from their circuit boards, so I think a completely plug and play solution will be possible.

I have some stepper motor controller chips and some tiny microprocessors on order to do up a proof of concept over the coming weeks.
 
  #24  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:33 PM
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That will be a big improvement, IMO. It'll be great to see what the values really are!
 
  #25  
Old 11-21-2011, 01:57 AM
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Of course it only disconnects the button...... I should of thought more about that one!!!!

And white is quite correct, I must admit I made an assumption, I rarely have to go in there for post 2000 cars

I shall also admit I have never noticed a difference in button styles and have not noticed if one type is more recessed than another, I will take a look next time.




<<<<< someone please tell me what the hell that is suppose to be?
 
  #26  
Old 11-21-2011, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark View Post
Yes, almost every time I try to get into the car with something in my hands I must be compensating in a way that brushes my left knee across the switches and most of the time both the fuel door and the trunk open.
So I think the new collar would help, and I'll ask around the dealerships and get the word on that. If it's too expensive I'll either snip the wires or try out your harness.
If the recessed collar is not avaialble, now that you mentioned the problem is with the trunk switch AND the fuel door, I would change my recommendation to cut the black/pink wire to the switch, not the yelow/red...this way both switches would operate only with the ignition switch on if you add a relay.

On further study of the electrical diagrams, I see now that this can be done without a relay. There is already an ignition switched ground at the nearby inertia switch in the fusebox on the left of the dash. It is a white/blue wire. This wire can be tapped and connected to the cut black wire that feeds the fuel/trunk switch. The other end of the black wire can be left unconnected.

If you want to go this route let me know and I can put the put a Posi-tap and a Posi-lock splice in an envelope and shoot it over to you.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 11-26-2011 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Cut the black/pink wire, not the solid black one
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR View Post
If the recessed collar is not avaialble, now that you mentioned the problem is with the trunk switch AND the fuel door, I would change my recommendation to cut the black wire to the switch, not the yelow/red...this way both switches would operate only with the ignition switch on if you add a relay.

On further study of the electrical diagrams, I see now that this can be done without a relay. There is already an ignition switched ground at the nearby inertia switch in the fusebox on the left of the dash. It is a white/blue wire. This wire can be tapped and connected to the cut black wire that feeds the fuel/trunk switch. The other end of the black wire can be left unconnected.

If you want to go this route let me know and I can put the put a Posi-tap and a Posi-lock splice in an envelope and shoot it over to you.
Yes, that sounds like a really good idea, so send one over! Would I be able to remove the fascia end piece of the dash to access that area better?
 
  #28  
Old 11-21-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark View Post
Yes, that sounds like a really good idea, so send one over! Would I be able to remove the fascia end piece of the dash to access that area better?

Yes, just remove the fuse door on the driver side. The inertia switch is on the right side of the fusebox, and the three wires connecting to it are accessible.
 
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  #29  
Old 11-21-2011, 03:12 PM
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Perfect!
 
 
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