Completely flush one side, the other I have a very small amount protruding so not enough to get something on. I will share a photo tomorrow. Think drilling it is the only way.

If some bar is still exposed, assuming you have a welder and some talent in that department, you might slip a nut over the end and weld the inside of the nut to the bolt shank.
I do this quite frequently removing broken bolts. The small one are the difficult ones. Sometimes I will first weld a washer to the broken shank, even if it is slightly recessed. Then I can weld a greatly oversized nut to the washer. If it breaks, I'll do it over and over again.

Right hand side of bolt

Left hand side

Have heated middle and each end and will not move with a lump hammer!!

Real tough... BE VERY VERY CAREFUL NOW... The only thing I can think to say is be careful with the heavy hammer as it could mushroom out the "heads" of the bolt making it even MORE differcult to pull...

There are cord cutters... Pushed into the space in the center of the subframe upper to cut the bolt again??? Crazy!
https://www.stealthangelsurvival.com...xoCa7MQAvD_BwE

A punch,,, a punch on the end of a pneumatic hammer (if you have) on the end and center of the bolt...??? That, or a cheap rental of an angled (large) drill from a Lowe's or Home Depot... Begin to drill out the center of the bolt, increasing the diameter of the bit as you go?

It's a #$&_+#- up situation...

Brother I wish I was there to help OR could be of more help...

Ugh, You've got the shortest straw I've seen there

You have three options that I can think of:

1) There's enough at each end to weld a nut on and work from there to get the shaft rotating.
2) Drill out at each end
3) Cut the bolt in the middle so each half can come outwards

...although each approach brings its own challenges.

What I would definitely do is to thoroughly clean up the centre section of the bolt. Whatever you do, that has to pass through the holes in the subframe. There's a fabric strip available that is abrasive on one side (I don't know the proper name for it) which you can loop around the bolt to clean behind it.

Also, keep blasting the seized areas with releasing fluid while you're working out the next line of attack, as it looks very dry - due to the heating, I guess.

+1 on Jay's warning about spreading the ends. The bolt definitely won't come out if that happens.



Whoever thought this design was a Good Idea should, to borrow a phrase from a member here, "be force fed iron filings and left in a damp corner to rust from the inside out".

When I did mine, the driver's side was very hard to remove, the passenger side was easy. It makes me think that these are service items, which should be loosened off and greased every couple of years.

+1 to dibbit

Had exactly the same experience when I did my front end Poly bush renewal. One side was easy, but the other side was a 2hr knuckle bleeding experience as there's very limited space to swing a BFH. I got it out mm by mm, and had to move it both ways to free the bind. Came very close to cutting the bolt head off, but couldn't as I didn't have a replacement. Thank good ness I had an impact wrench! I put a sacrificial nut on the end, and as I hit the nut, I spun the bolt and eventually it came free.

Would definitely agree with Dibbit's suggestion, that it would be worth greasing these bolts periodically. So I'll be hitting them with a lub spray every time I'll take a wheel off. Good idea!

Totally agree. New bushes aren't exactly well lubricated out of the box so anything that will help prevent what the OP is experiencing. I was lucky, as both sides came apart without argument the first time in 2015. Same when I did the front shocks last year, but I'd made sure the whole length of the bolt had a good coating of anti-seize.

My bitch about the design is that there's no seal on the inside of the subframe holes. Once the bolt is fitted dry at the factory, nature gets to work...

Quick point, maybe pedantic but maybe useful to someone, there are two types of washers involved here. There are the spacing washers, but there are also washers built into the bushings. They're held against the bushing tubes by the rubber outer casing, so a person might not even realize they're there. In my case the spacing washers were fine, but the bushing washers were a very tight fit and were seizing up.

I feel bad even mentioning this since this project has spiraled so far past washer binding. Good luck!