Hey guys, is this the correct valve cover torque sequence for our 4.0's?
The covers have been cleaned and painted, no damage whatsoever, no chips or nothing.

Im doing timing chain tensioners, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs,cleaning and refurbishing the coil packs with new boots,water pump and gasket,coolant bypass hose,throttle body connector cleaning,maf cleaning,new air filter, coolant flush, supercharger fluid change,oil change, power steering fluid change, the whole nine yards. Im into this job over 4 hours already

 

Good progress in four hours.

Your diagram is straight out of JTIS.


(click on the image to enlarge it)

Equally important to the tightening sequence is the torque - 11Nm. I've seen several covers cracked through over tightening.

Graham

 

Oh sir, now

Jaguars are immaculate pieces of machinery.
Even though I'm in 4 hours with a lot done,make no mistake, the **** end of my kitten shall roar !

 

I used the proper tightening sequence and applied proper torque as noted in this thread, but still had oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold on the right (passenger side on US car) side cam cover after a recent plastic secondary timing chain tensioners replacement. I just finished taking that cover off and re-doing the install. The burnt oil smell is less so I am hoping that it's from residual oil from the earlier leak which was probably the result of the gasket having a slight pinch in it. I only used gasket sealer on the cover side to hold the gasket in place during the installation, so disassembly will be easier during the inevitable next time.
It's a bitch getting to the two bolts on the outboard side of each cover: the one to the rear and the third one from the rear. Lots of cursing required and strange combination of socket, universal, extension and wrench needed.

 

1. I used 1/4in ratchet, 1/4in swivel, 1/4 10mm. Bend the metal heat shield back with a pry-bar, and you got it. 3/8in drive with 3/8in 10mm socket on some others.

2.Just as our seals harden and becomes useless, so does the plastic valve covers. Black rtv is definitely your friend.

 

I replaced my gaskets also to fix a leak at the back on to the manifolds and now have one at the front, at least it doesn't leak onto the manifold and burn. Just one more job on my long list.

 

Provided that the valvecover face is straight, the secret to a leak free result is to lightly lubricate the mating surfaces with motor oil. Dipping your finger in the oil from the dipstick is enough.

The lubrication lets the gasket creep and settle during tightening.

 

Success ! 45 miles no more of that pesky white smoke/smell or leak lol.

The secret was using that bolt pattern sequence and not overtightening the bolts.YOU HAVE TO MAKE 3 PASSES, the bolts will be loose in each pass, and the third, all will be firm when you re-check them.

I did use a smear of black rtv on the face of the head, I just like seeing a little ooze out to let me know, nothing is going to leak again, for many years, same for the spark plug tube seals.

The engine loves the new timing tensioners, cleaned coil packs,cleaned maf and the new spark plugs.Purs like a kitten, power is awesome.

Now the pesky abs problem after my radio instal shall be tackled.