Good morning, everyone - I've spent considerable time reviewing information in the forum on setting the CVVT after installing new timing chain tensioners, and sadly, I remain confused. My vehicle is a 2000 XK8 which has the later VVT units, the type with the helical castings on the body. My understanding is that, with the chains, tensioners, guides, blades and sprockets fully installed (but the intake sprocket bolts still somewhat loose), the tool (or substitute for it) is used to rotate the VVT clockwise as far as it will go and then the intake sprocket bolt is tightened to hold it in position. Is this the correct process, and how does one determine whether the VVT is set correctly during this procedure - does it just quit moving, is there a click of some sort?
Thanks again to everyone who contributes to all the valuable dialogue on this forum.

 

Viewing from the front of the car. the engine rotates clockwise. The goal is to remove all the slack on the drive side of both the primary and secondary chains.

To do that, you need to use the tool to apply torque to the cam sprockets anticlockwise.

I've attached the JTIS procedure for LHS - RHS is the same.

 

Thanks, michaelh, particularly for the JTIS link, which is very helpful. I think I've got it now.

 

For anyone still following this thread, I found as many others have that the VVT setting tool included most of the cheap timing tool kits didn't work: After I ground off the excess around the outside of the cylinder so it would fit in the cavity, the pins didn't align with the holes inside the mechanism. I tried to bend them slightly and one of them broke off. I searched the internet for other vendors and sent for one from Moss, a California outfit. The tool fit perfectly, at a cost of $113, including taxes and shipping.

 

Do you have a link or part number, I can't find that on the Moss site.

My cheap and chintzy (made in PRC) toolset also broke a pin and needed some grinding to fit.

 

It's part #303-654, described on their site as "CAM TOOL JAG V8"

 

When I did the first set of chains on my '01 XK8, I had read quite a bit of comments here, even a few that (I believe very falsely) said you didn't didn't need to retard the VVT as it "always snaps back" to fully retarded. My understanding was like yours, as it retards the veins inside the VVT and if not locked back properly in fully retarded settings, would create issues for timing. My tool did not work (I bought the cheap kit) but I was able to use some needle nose pliers that were very pointed and the perfect size to index the VVT. The driver side was fully retarded, but sure enough, the passenger side after putting a bit of pressure, felt a "pop" and the VVT "veins" or whatever you want to call it, mechanism, etc., moved what I felt was about 5 degrees! Had I not checked it and put a fair bit of pressure, not sure what that would have caused for my car. It definitely would not have been indexed where it needed to be.

My XK8 runs like a champ, sounds amazing at all all RPMs, so pretty confident I got it dialed in, but this was my .02 after doing the job. Will be performing this same job again on my Uncle's 2000 XK8 after Thanksgiving.

 

Minne moved a few degrees on one side, didn't hear or feel anything engaging, I just locked it down. Chains and tensioners are now installed, hand-rotated the engine through a couple of revolutions, everything smooth and tight. Next comes timing cover replacement. I tried the needle-nose pliers trick but couldn't get it done without a third hand.
Wanted to add that I used the "upgraded" blade and guide set with aluminum bodies, found that they fit quite well. Only concern was that the chains were tighter than I expected, no wedges needed to take up the slack. I think that was because of the greater bulk of the components, to the extent that I installed the primary tensioners first and then installed the blades by inserting the end between the tensioner and the chain until the piston engaged the divot on the blade, then tightened the holding bolt to the proper torque spec. No binding, additional resistance or hiccups when the engine is turned by hand, so I believe its good. I'll keep everyone posted on this.

 

Be careful. The aluminium-backed guides are meant for the later Morse primary chains (from engine # 0108130000 on). Many of the kit suppliers don't know the difference.

There are several threads:- check this one from dan02xk8 (lots of info and pictures):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1513371