Just came back home to AZ after five months on the road in the RV. Jag started right up after disconnecting the battery maintainer. First order of business was to locate the coolant leak I found before taking off in May.
It's the water pump! After reading on the forum, it seems that a white plastic impeller is the way to go. My question is what else should I do while the coolant is drained?? The hoses look to be in great shape. But, there is the plastic thermostat housing and the thermostat?? Anything else??
The car is a 2004 with about 52000 miles on it.
Any input is appreciated.

 

Serpentine belt, top hose, header tank, thermostate, and water pump, and anything with a plastic forma connector.

 

The outlet pipe just above the pump.

 

Take a look at my DIY that covered pump, thermostat, pulleys. I think is what you would want to do since you are in there.

 

rothwell,
Great pointers with pictures. Thank you kindly. Pump and Thermostat on order. Had forgotten about the Idler and Tensioner. Will be ordered tonite.
Antifreeze drained and all over. Old Thermostat out - the weird two piece one with two springs.
Back to work!

 

Well, everything is apart except for one of the water pump bolts. For some reason, they were torqued really hard. May have to grind the head off. Will find out tomorrow morning. Does anybody out there know which Grade Bolts are used for the water pump - or in general. The whole engine front seem to be M6. The bolt I pulled says A8 in it. Is that a Grade 8?? Never seen that marking before. If it is Grade 8, then a 10.9 replacement should be fine.
By the way, rothwell, if it makes you feel any better, I broke the coolant return too.
So, if anybody out there has any info on Jaguar Bolt Grades, please advise

 

I was also warned about it being fragile. Did not seem to matter I still broke it. :-)

 

Be careful with the water pump bolts - a few of them get very corroded and can be easy to strip. I had to buy a cheap metric tap and die set from Harbor Freight to clean out the threads before putting my water pump back in, as the bolts were not going in square because of crud in there.

The T&D set was worth its weight in gold. Cleaned them out, cleaned the surfaces, and kitty runs perfectly cool.

 

Give them several SQUARE light, to not so light, taps INWARDS with a light hammer... Towards the engine/threads to shock them, then try again. Amazingly, this can do a fair amount of good at "cracking" the crigidy craggidy that builds up between the individual steel and aluminum threads and the kinda sediment (for lack of a better word) that also grows in there.

I think some of it must have to do with the small amount of electricity that is present and charged minerals in the coolant and such...? That's just my wild theory UNsupported by quality education, lol

 

Well, the pump is finally out. Once I squared up the bolt head with the Dremel. I could get a good grip with a vise grip tp break it loose. Once out, for some strange reason, the bolt was bent??
Anyway, to get to the rear two bolt on the Water Manifold Assembly, I had to remove the Intake Manifold Front Cover. A fair amount of oil in there. But, the scary part, There was a lot of tiny, looked like, black plastic pieces. WHERE DID THEY COME FROM AND/OR WHAT COULD IT BE?? Anyone else seen this??
Did not want to remove the manifold so cleaned out from the front. Royal pain! I think I am bleeding up to my elbows. Lots of sharp edges in there. Still a mystery where the stuff came from. Can only think of a broken PCV valve in the earlier life??
Am I dreaming or have I read somewhere that there is a metal replacement for the Water Manifold assembly or is there only the plastic version??
Since I butchered one of the Water Pump Bolts I have five new on order by mail. Tried to make a quick deal with the local Jaguar dealer, but at 17+ dollars each I opted to have to wait for a few days😢

 

It would be best to remove the inlet manifold and replace the hoses from under the manifold to the EGR valve as they are prone to failure.

It's not uncommon for some surfaces of the plastic inlet manifold to deteriorate and crumble, which is probably the case with your car.

Only the supercharged engine is fitted with an aluminium thermostat housing. The normally aspirated engines should have the entire water outlet assembly replaced whenever the coolant is replaced. The water outlet comes with the thermostat already installed.

 

Chase the threads for the water pump bolts and use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new bolts when installing the new water pump.

 

I think you're smarter than you give yourself credit for.
It's probably dissimilar metal corrosion.
It's been a long time since I learned of this but I believe you're on the right track.
Here's the Wikipedia definition:
Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion or dissimilar metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metalcorrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte. A similar galvanic reaction is exploited in primary cells to generate a useful electrical voltage to power portable devices.

 

Well, Murphy never fails. Started installing the new Idler and Tensioner pulleys last night. Tensioner worked fine. However on the Idler, the housing thread stripped before I was even close to the proper torque.
I would hate to have to pull all that stuff out and find a replacement. Other thought is to drill it out with an angle drill and either tap for a M12 and make a special bolt or use a Heli-Coil insert for the standard M10 bolt.
There seems to be enough room in there to do this without removing the bracket.
Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

You are scaring me. My idler has a brief squeak for a few seconds when the motor is first started in cold weather. So replacement is on my to-do list.

did the bolt come off easy ?


Z

 

Use the Heli-Coil and the 10.... It's what I had to do and it's holding up just fine. A couple of days ago I had suggested in another thread somewhere that I don't usually torque things down (steel on 20yo aluminum and 1000 hot and cold cycles) to factory specs and usually try to feel things out... The aluminum in these cars is a crazy maker.

This is what I was pondering on today. Good grief.

 

Comes apart easy enough. However, if you strip the thread on assembly, you have to remove the alternator and the mounting bracket. Royal pain!

 

JayJagJay,

Thanks for input. I was also thinking that HeliCoil was the way to go. All on order now. Can't reach to do it in place, so alternator and bracket is coming out. This all started as a simple water pump job and just keeps snowballing. Seem like most M10x1.5 are shown as 30-33 Ft.Lbs. Looking on line, maybe 25 Ft.Lbs is more like it in aluminum.
Anyway, when I look at your picture above, I don't feel so bad anymore. Is that the original or a replacement?

 

You are not alone with this.

See giandanielxk8's recent saga:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post2261394

2003 workshop manual torque figure is 45 Nm/33 ft lbs.

 

Great view of the valley hoses and octopus hose for those interested.