Well its in and pulling like a train. So a 4.0 can be converted to a 4.2

 

Smoggy, do you plan on writing a "how to" for the swap? Curious on what all needed to be replaced to convert to a 4.2.

 

Soggy, I agree with Chillyphilly. This is a notable achievement, you should really post the story in the forum separately. Lots of us will be interested.

John

 

Managed to go through all the steps and _added_ a flip key to my car. Car initially came to me with the original key and a separate fob. I did not dare hack the one key I have, so I went down the path of adding a separate new key, in a flip format. Ended up acquiring all the components separately (eBay) and put them together. Learned a great deal in the process. A GREAT deal. Contemplating adding another one.

A separate conversion path is described here, with a similar end result: diy-flip-key-conversion-without-reprogramming-guide-pictures-93167/

 

Took a stab and removing a largish dent that I 'obtained' a few weeks ago. Used glue pull tabs and my slide hammer, and am generally satisfied with the results. It'll work until I get around to a repaint.

 

Noticed the passenger side low beam was off a bit so I searched around the forum (the svc. manual is useless on adjustments)for some info. on where and how and was able to get both sides to agree. They may not be EXACTLY where they need to be but at least their both wrong to the same place<G>

Feeling triumphant, I then undertook to swap the driver's side power seat module over to the passenger side which hasn't worked since I bought this car 3+ years ago. Success #2. The seat motors are O.K. but the module has the predictable circuit board tracks that have been worn through by the case rubbing them so I guess I'll undertake some delicate nerve grafting next week to save a few bucks.

 

Having both rear arches cut out, the rust in the inner wheel arch cut out and rusty metal in the rear wings. All to be followed with a full respray. Looking at green pearl over the original meteorite.
Inner wing and rear of sill
Inner wing

Rear looking into boot. Its rottern around the grill too.



Shows the amount of inner wing that had to be cut out

Inside of outerwing.

 

Unusual as the rot seems to be confined mostly to the join between inner/outer wings. The inner sills look OK, as do the subframe mounts.

Good luck with the repairs.

 

Today I pulled out the power antenna to see why it does not work. Well one reason is that the wiring was disconnected. I think whoever put in the new motor for the hydrolic roof pump must have knocked it loose.... second is that the plastic strip inside the mast was broken. So I will order a new mast and it should be good as new again.
Mike in TN

 

Well today I went over to Knoxville and got the new antenna mast from the Jag dealer there. Put it in and now everything works fine. Mast was $60 and took about an hour to fit.
Mike in TN

 

I have the dreaded yellow light and performance restriction warning.
OB reader tells me that it is the Knock Sensor (Bank 1)
Will have to pull the SC to change them (I will do both to save me doing it again in a few weeks or months when the second one will probably fail.

 

Think about replacing hoses at the same time.

 

Thanks Gus, good idea.

 

See here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...99-xk8-190365/

 

Cleaned and lubricated parts of my XK8 convertible top latches. Thanks for all the instructional posts.

 

Refitted the ECM after a recap:


The Nichicon caps used in our ECMs have been superseded; today's equivalents are

UPJ1H100MDD1TA 10uF 50V 105c (x2)
UPJ1J470MPD 63volts 47uF 105c (x2)
UPS1A221MED 10volts 220uF 105c (x2)

UPM1H561MHD6 50volts 560uF 105c with the correct dimensions was on back order of ~15 weeks or so, so I used UPM1H681MHD6 50volts 680uF 105c. Electrolytic manufacturing tolerances are pretty wide (20% of nominal value) so the 680 will be OK.

Strange that there haven't been any reports of the 98 on ECMs failing due to leaky/dead caps, as they appear to use exactly the same values and types. All the ones I removed looked physically fine, although I didn't do any tests on them - the age alone is sufficient reason to swop out.

These are available from Mouser, but both US & UK wanted to charge me silly money for postage/UK VAT, so I won't deal with them.

No affiliation here:- I found Arrow Electronics (US) on Nichicon's website. They ship free and delivered in around 4 days across the pond, so I'd highly recommend them.

 

Why did you decide to replace the capacitors? Was there an issue with your ECM?

 

Hi Dibbit,
I'd pulled the ECM primarily to confirm the that everything was OK in there, and greenforest's attempt to repair his was the catalyst to do so for comparison purposes.

I had no ECM issues, but the age and similarity to the '97 meant it was worth a check. I haven't read of any issues with 98+ ECMs, but I don't want to be faced with repairing a damaged PCB for the sake of $5-$6 and a couple of hours work. Just seems like cheap insurance.

I did agonise for a while over the 'warranty invalid if seals broken' stickers, though

 

Good idea Mike. Those electrolytic caps are pretty old.

John

 

There are some threads on here with people who have had problems with the later ECMs (including 2001s like mine) - although it does seem to be the earliest that are most likely to fail. I suppose at some point the electrolytic capacitors are going to fail - I'm not sure I would be brave enough to do it as preventative maintenance though, even if my warranty did run out 15 years ago.