I'm trying to figure out what kind of wood I've got on my dash. Any ideas?


Main reason is I'd like to replace the navigation with three gauges. I bought a set of dash faces - they are really dark, I'm thinking walnut. I've stripped the finish off of them, and it looks like this:

I'd love to finish this to look like the existing so I can match the shifter and window switches, but I don't think I'll be able to. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks, Steve

 

You are going to have to acquire a full set of the wood panels to end up with a matching set. An alternative is to cover with a carbon fiber or other vinyl type product.

 

Steve, It looks like you still have some residue left behind from the stripper. How does it look when you clean it with denatured alcohol. You can use some 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper with soapy water to get it clean, gently not pressure as it's only thousands of an inch thick. Give it 3 coats of spray ploy (rattle can) and wait a couple hours. Sand again with 2000 and spray 2 coats, do that a couple of times then one final coat should give you at clear finish. Oh, use a tack cloth before spraying.


Wayne

 

+1

But sometimes they are close enough not to notice unless you are looking for it. You are almost there. Might as well finish and give it a go. I prefer the 3-gauge setup as well.

Full sets do come up on eBay or there are wrecking yards (breakers) that specialize in european cars/Jags.

 

Wayne, I've cleaned it a bunch with mineral spirits and laquer thinner - I'll try the alcohol. It took a ton of stripper to get all the old finish off! The last few flecks I got off with a heat gun.


I have the dash face set in the replacement wood, but not the console surround and the door switches. I was originally planning to finish these to match the existing console etc, but I don't think it is the same species. I am now thinking of getting the remaining pieces in a dark wood and try to finish the whole set to match closely - I don't expect it to look perfect. Then I'll have a complete original set to keep or sell. I only paid $60 for the wood, so I'm not out a lot if this doesn't work. I've been looking for a dark, matching console and switches, but the prices I'm seeing are pretty nasty.


Can anyone tell me what kind of wood my current dash is? It's pretty light coloring, and is light amber with dark figuring.


Thanks All, Steve

 

You could also finish in piano black. I may have one more solution! I just replaced my fascia and have the original three gage panel. It looks like it's an exact match for your existing wood. I was putting it on ebay but maybe if it works, we can work it out! I'll take a photo and post later.

 

I think that's Bird's Eye Maple.

Graham

 

Thanks, Graham - That seems right.

 

Not quite the same, but maybe a bit closer ??
Jaguar XKR XK8 Dash Fascia Wood Veneer | eBay

 

That's not birds eye maple. It does look like a maple veneer. Birds eye maple will have hundreds of little eyes through out the veneer, I believe all of the birds eye maple was installed in special edition versions though out the run of XK 2000-2006 and later xk-150 cars I might be wrong but if I am I'm sure someone will chime in.

 

Steve, If that is maple, don't forget it is easy to find. What I mean is that figured maple (quilted, flamed, birds eye) solid wood pieces are easily purchased. I use Curly Maple brand frequently for my projects. Since it is so plentiful, you can purchase some and test it with different stains, finishes, etc.., even hunt for the best match of the figure itself.

I'm sure you already know this, but FYI - if you take an unfinished piece of figured maple, and just wet it with water, that will give you a pretty close view of what it will look like with Lacquer or poly urethane finish.

If you wind up working with Maple, the small pores in it allow you to sand it to a very fine finish. Most folks don't know, but Micro Mesh brand sand paper sells ultra fine grades of sand paper all the way up to 12,000 grit. You actually get a reflective finish if you are to sand it all the way up to the 12000 grit level.

 

My plan at this point will be to complete the refinishing of the walnut pieces. I bought a chunk of dark walnut at Rockler last night so I could experiment with stains and finishes. If the refinished pieces come out nice, I'll look for somewhat matching switch and center pieces and finish them to match as closely as possible. If anyone has those pieces in dark walnut, I may be interested.


I would consider a replacement 3 gauge center piece to match what is already in the car, but I've done some amateur woodworking and I really like the fact that all the pieces are from one tree, and I love the bookmatching.


Thanks to all! Steve

 

Thanks, John, I'll check that sandpaper out.

 

Oh you're welcome Steve. This sandpaper polishes as much as it "smooths" the surface. The prices vary widely, let me know if you need a reference for the best prices, I've got my receipt in the garage.

You will see it sold in "sampler" packs, that's good but the paper is smaller than normal sizes. Technically you could fit a 2 x 4 inch piece of sample sandpaper on a 4x4 inch orbital sander but life is way easier using the 4x4 inch size. I'd vote for an orbital palm sander. They do sell this paper in hook/loop or standard backing for clamping.

I purchase the 12 inch x 12 inch sheets of micromesh sandpaper. Easy to fold in 1/2 and cut to size that way. For a job like this I'd buy the following grits: 2400, 3600, 6000, 8000, 10,000, and 12,000. It sounds like a lot of overlap, but the incremental levels of finer and finer grit make it much easier; and I'd argue, in in the end much faster to get where you want to be with all these small increments over just a few larger leaps in grit. This stuff lasts much longer than typical sandpaper, so you don't need much. Here's one warning though - if you enjoy woodworking, you are going to fall in love with this stuff. IOW if you have a few pieces of it left over for your next job, you will be smiling. . .

This sand paper is designed for wet sanding and a fine finish like this needs the water to float the pieces of sanded particles away for proper polishing.

I always wet sand. Mix a drop of dish soap in a cup or two of H2O, and just spray it or dab it on the wood's surface. More water is better than less here (a tiny "puddle" is OK) Don't forget to gently wipe the surface dry after every other grit change - gets rid of the suspended particles on the surface.

I got a little detailed here but I wanted to share what I've learned after countless projects similar to this, hope it helps mate.

 

Very cool, John - thanks! I'm cheap (frugal?), so if you have a source that is cost effective, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

 

Steve,

I'm happy, I finally saved then found something for future cross reference (woo hoo) I'm not usually the best at that.

Check out Scientific Instrument Services in Ringoes New Jersey USA. Best prices and quickest delivery I've ever found. The sheer number differnt grits plus all the different styles of this stuff can be confusing, if you want part #'s just ask.

John

 

Cool, Thanks!
Steve