White "smoke" out the back and disappearing coolant! - 2000 XKR vert
#1
White "smoke" out the back and disappearing coolant! - 2000 XKR vert
Oh, boy! Been running a bit rough at start up, but smoothed out fine as it warmed. Coolant began disappearing. Hmmm. My brother (former mechanic) said he sold his truck when coolant began disappearing. Started it today and after about 30 seconds got lots of white stuff out the exhaust, more from the right than the left, but significant from both sides.
A new contact in Salem, Oregon (Troy, of Affinity-Imports) agrees it's probably a head gasket. He also said it might be cheaper to buy a new used engine than fix this one. Hmmm. $5-7k. I saw someone mention on a thread here that there might be a possible intercooler leak if the smoke was on both sides. But wouldn't the exhause mix in the middle of the x-exhaust? Hoping for a cheaper outcome. Any thoughts or hope? Pricing thoughts? I'm getting tired of taking my cat out on a trailer.
A new contact in Salem, Oregon (Troy, of Affinity-Imports) agrees it's probably a head gasket. He also said it might be cheaper to buy a new used engine than fix this one. Hmmm. $5-7k. I saw someone mention on a thread here that there might be a possible intercooler leak if the smoke was on both sides. But wouldn't the exhause mix in the middle of the x-exhaust? Hoping for a cheaper outcome. Any thoughts or hope? Pricing thoughts? I'm getting tired of taking my cat out on a trailer.
#2
#3
+1
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
#4
+1
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
Although having said that, if there is more smoke (steam) coming out of the right hand side, then that is certainly a good starting point. Plus the worse case scenario is that you might end up doing both heads! In fact if it were me, I think I would do both anyway..
#5
+1
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
I'd definitely start with buying a tester kit before buying an engine!
If it confirms the worst then there's an old saying "better the devil you know than the one you don't". Gasket replacement on the original engine (provided neither head nor block is cracked) for which you presumably know the history is preferable to a used replacement engine of unknown provenance.
Graham
#6
Thank you
Yes, I'll be looking for test kit tomorrow. On another thread I saw that the 4.2 gaskets are a better choice than the 4.0 gaskets. Will be choosing those. I'm NOT a mechanic, and don't have a lot of choices in southern Oregon. But even on the Jag $5-7K seems like a lot. Is that reasonable?
Have to share something another brother told me. When considering whether or not to spend the money to fix a car, consider: If this car were for sale for the amount this fix will cost, with the work just done, would I be interested? In this case, of course!
Thanks for the help.
Have to share something another brother told me. When considering whether or not to spend the money to fix a car, consider: If this car were for sale for the amount this fix will cost, with the work just done, would I be interested? In this case, of course!
Thanks for the help.
#7
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#9
#12
The test is a compression test. This will tell you which side is blown. You don't need to replace both gaskets if only one is blown. These engines are not known for blowing headgaskets, so there is no need to replace one that is still holding compression. The cost to only replace one headgasket is going to run around $1500. You don't need a specialist, any good mechanic can do this. The only danger is pulling it down and finding a damaged head or block. This could trigger a replacement engine.
#13
Test indicates hydrocarbons in coolant.
Car is now at a local shop with good reputation/referrals. Not a Jag shop, but known for quality work and honesty. Their plan is to replace all wear parts as far into the engine as they get. Seems reasonable. Estimate looks in order, clear.
Wondering - do I need to have the updated timing chain set (chain, guides, gears, and tensioners) as dealer records show tensioners updated before I bought the car two years ago?
Is there a need to charge the A/C system? It was working fine.
Also having head pressure tested and resurfaced.
Requested they use the 4.2 gasket, as noted on another thread. He said he'd have to check on that because he orders the gasket kit.
Also rodding out radiator.
New plugs, new water pump.
ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD LOOK FOR?
Car is now at a local shop with good reputation/referrals. Not a Jag shop, but known for quality work and honesty. Their plan is to replace all wear parts as far into the engine as they get. Seems reasonable. Estimate looks in order, clear.
Wondering - do I need to have the updated timing chain set (chain, guides, gears, and tensioners) as dealer records show tensioners updated before I bought the car two years ago?
Is there a need to charge the A/C system? It was working fine.
Also having head pressure tested and resurfaced.
Requested they use the 4.2 gasket, as noted on another thread. He said he'd have to check on that because he orders the gasket kit.
Also rodding out radiator.
New plugs, new water pump.
ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD LOOK FOR?
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