I'm pretty new here - thank you in advance for your comments/help.

My 99 XK8 conv got a new paint job last week. The shop took out they battery for the 3 weeks it was there, which they said is common practice. hen I picked the car up, there were three issues.

-Passenger side mirror switch (on the driver's side cluster) does not work. But, the switch on the passenger door DOES work.

-Neither of the power mirrors work.

-When the door is closed, the display says "Drivers Door Open"

-Keyless entry does not work.

-We took the door panel off, all wires are connected as they should be. I ordered (maybe too quickly) a replacement switch cluster for the drivers door. Just tried it, and I have the same issues. I also got a door latch assembly, but am not going to go any further since the switch did not resolve my first issue. It just seems strange that everything was working fine before the paint job, and now, I have these 4 issues. The body shop is clueless, as all they did was remove the door panels to prep for paint. Any thoughts?

 

Fuse position 15 on the drivers side facia is for the door module. Don't know if you checked that. It's a clear 25 amp. Also is you rubber conduit from the door to the body damaged in any way?

 

Seconding Itspec60, did they take the doors off ? Also look carefully to see if there are any unconnected spare sockets

I took a door panel off a Mazda Xedos to replace the window winder, and had similar problem when I connected everything up. It all looked perfectly OK. It was not until I searched around and found an unconnected socket on the door loom that I realised it was possible to connect up in the wrong socket. The spare one was for an option I didn't have. Swapping it over restored normal service

 

Has the battery been fully charged? A low-ish battery that works fine in your Tahoe can cause odd problems in our cars. I solved a number of door-related issues with a new battery, as have many others.

Mike

 

You also need to check your grounds if they removed any grounds and reinstalled them after painting it could cause some issues; make sure there is good metal to metal contact. My new MY99 XK8 had that issue from the factory and it was a bear for the service techs to track down.

 

I will start checking those things tomorrow - thanks. I don't think anything was left disconnected, as when the door panels were removed, there were only 2 plugs, which are both secure. I will definitely check the fuse as well, but then again, the passenger door does not have the same issue. Battery is fine but I will check the ground to make sure that's ok. Sucks to have a car 100% right before it goes in for a paint job, and then comes out with issues that they have no clue how to deal with!

 

I would also do another 'hard reset' on the car, when there are multiple issues that are electrical in nature and seemingly unrelated to a single 'problem' (such as a fuse, or harness connector) I have resorted to the reset to start fresh.

The hard reset includes disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery, stretching it up to the positive terminal/post (while connected) and touching it for a few seconds...5 is good. There will be a small spark discharging remaining energy in the car.

This will also clear the transmission module, so it may shift differently until it relearns your driving pattern.

 

Hmmm....sounds interesting - is the hard reset thing a Jag thing? I'll give it a try....all this stuff that's happening seems to have no cause/culprit, so I guess it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. Dumb question I'm sure, but this can't
"hurt" anything, correct? Thanks - will keep you posted.

 

damn isnt it nice when Non techs have a good likely answer. you can teach old dogs new tricks.... not that your old Matt.
This kinda stuff is common out of body shops with long term batt disconnects. The modules can exhibit stupid behavior like press 1 window button and another 1 goes down. Or things not working. Same with leaving windows or PC open/on too long. Need a "RESTART" to fix

 

I'm having some issues as well and would like to try this but I need some clarification. When disconnecting the ground cable, am I disconnecting from the battery post or from the other end of the cable. Sorry if that's a silly question, but I'm quite a novice as a mechanic.

 

You dis-connect the Cable from the Negative post on the Battery and take the end of the Cable and touch it to the Positive Post on the Battery. This discharges any memory devices on the car that require constant Battery Voltage.

 

Thanks Paul

 

brutal, I try to pay attention I'm a large believer in the reset procedure when symptoms are multiple in number and often random. I'm also pleased you notice my education progress. lol

 

actually volatile memory are items like the windows and clock that as soon as you disconnect the battery. theyre reset.
non volatile memory like air bags, ecu and other modules have small batteries
(capacitors that store battery power) these can only be reset with a hard reboot. Youre providing a path to ground when doing a hard reboot and this discharges the capacitors and reset modules to default factory settings.

 

So it appears this was a battery issue. Went out this morning to perform the "hard reset", yet I could not open the truck (or so anything) as the car was completely dead. Jumped it enough to open the trunk, then jumped the battery, started right up and had no more electrical issues within 5 minutes. Just for good measure, I went to AutoZone and had them check the battery and alternator, and both are good but the battery only had a 77% charge. What is wierd to me is that after I picked my car up from being painted, I drove almost an hour home, so that battery should have been fully charged, and the "issues" should have not been there. Then again, maybe by the battery going completely bad and me jumping it, maybe it "reset" everything as a "reset" would. Oh well, I don't care now - everything works! Now all I have to do is find someone who needs a driver's side power window / mirror switch cluster and door latch actuator since I can't send them back!

 

You proboble did an inadvertant battery reset. And driving a car and expecting the alternator will properly charge a battery is just not gonna happen. Alternators and to provide power to the car electrical demands and "maintain" battery voltage. It wont bring up a battery charge correctly. Fast in fast out, batteries should be trickle charged to restore a correct deep charge and not a flash charge

 

Good advice Mike!