XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Winter battery storage

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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Default Winter battery storage

Is it alright to remove the battery completely from the car for 4 or 5 months to keep it on a battery tender durning winter? Leaving the battery in the trunk with a battery tender, I would have to leave the trunk open since there is no place to run the cord to the outside,
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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I ran a tender a couple of winters ago and draped the cord out the back lower corner of the trunk lid didn't hurt the weather strip at all. Now I just start it once a week and let it run up to operating temperature. out in the driveway and haven't had a problem yet.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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If you do keep it on the tender with the trunk closed, make sure it has it's vent tube installed, otherwise explosive hydrogen gas and possibly other corrosive fumes from charging can build up in the trunk...and could be disastrous especially if the tender were to fail and overcharge the battery.

I have been wary of tenders ever since I had a battery explode in my jeep in my garage one winter a few years ago. If there was a build up of hydrogen, as in a closed trunk, it would have gone from a mess to a disaster.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; Nov 22, 2011 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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There's no need to put the charger in the trunk. These terminals are ideal for attaching a charger. They are always connected directly to the battery. (Picture was posted a while ago by Paul Pavlik)

Also ... maybe best to check all ways of getting into the trunk (remote, key, trunk button) before closing it for a long time.
 
Attached Thumbnails Winter battery storage-xkrengine40c.jpg  

Last edited by Dennis07; Nov 22, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
If you do keep it on the tender with the trunk closed, make sure it has it's vent tube installed
is the "vent tube" some type of add-on component? My '03 still has the original battery (it's not dated but it's Jaguar brand) however it doesn't have a vent tube
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by OhioXK
is the "vent tube" some type of add-on component? My '03 still has the original battery (it's not dated but it's Jaguar brand) however it doesn't have a vent tube
Nope, it is standard....someone must have removed it and not replaced it who worked on the car.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
I have been wary of tenders ever since I had a battery explode in my jeep in my garage one winter a few years ago. If there was a build up of hydrogen, as in a closed trunk, it would have gone from a mess to a disaster.
Howdy Folks:
Such explosions are relatively rare, but do happen. (Probably more than anyone would want to admit ) My time came in the mid 1980's. My 6" Cresent wrench caused a spark that blew the top off my Skylark battery right in my face along with I don't know how much fluid, causing temporary blindness. (I think it scared me blind as I was in the driveway and had to grope for the outside faucet)
So, one of my first task after getting my jag was to rerun the vent tube which someone had removed. I have a hose clamp on mine.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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I have an Interstate battery in my 97 XK8. It doesn't have a vent tube. I don't see a place to attach one. Do I need to be concerned about this?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RCSign
I ran a tender a couple of winters ago and draped the cord out the back lower corner of the trunk lid didn't hurt the weather strip at all. Now I just start it once a week and let it run up to operating temperature. out in the driveway and haven't had a problem yet.
You're doing more harm than good by starting it. Leave it slumber in peace until the roads are clear and dry enough to drive it for at least 20-30 minutes. Short runs allows the accumulation of moisture throughout the engine and exhaust.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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This thread should be helpful: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nt-tube-56171/

There are 2 issues without the tube: One is accelerated corrosion, the other is very remote, but possible...that is the risk of explosion should your voltage regulator fail and overcharge the battery rapidly enough to build up an explosive level of hydrogen gas in the trunk.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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Default CTEC Battery conditioner

I leave my battery in situ and connect it to a CTEC battery conditioner long term and shut the rear hatch over the charging cables without any problem. The condiioner has a connector in its charging cables which allows a permanent connection to be made to the terminals near the LH (from rear) rear light cluster leading out into the boot. I then very simply connect the conditioner to the connector whenever I need to in a matter of seconds. I do not know if CTEC conditioners are available in the US but they have a website.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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I hope you disconnect the battery cables(both), all you need is one good power surge to fry your electronics.
I have seen this horror story play out many times on other forums.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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Use a "Battery Tender" brand. It is done millions of times during the winter with virtually no surge problem.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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Any problem pulling the battery out and leaving it out all winter ? Besides resetting the windows come spring
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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I don't know what codes need to be kept active by the battery, but I have hooked mine to a tender for four winters with the trunk closed. No problems have surfaced. I have a vent tube.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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As quoted by Mikey
You're doing more harm than good by starting it. Leave it slumber in peace until the roads are clear and dry enough to drive it for at least 20-30 minutes. Short runs allows the accumulation of moisture throughout the engine and exhaust.
I let the car run at different RPM's in the drive way not just an idle, I'll actually sit in it, for 30 to 40 minutes. I'm aware of moisture accumulation. I've been doing this with my other cars for over thirty years and have never had a problem. and I will drive it when the roads are clear. It also sits in a heated garage.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RCSign
As quoted by Mikey

I let the car run at different RPM's in the drive way not just an idle, I'll actually sit in it, for 30 to 40 minutes. I'm aware of moisture accumulation. I've been doing this with my other cars for over thirty years and have never had a problem. and I will drive it when the roads are clear. It also sits in a heated garage.
Fair enough- I've let my toys slumber blissfully undisturbed over our 6 months winters and have done so for the last 40 odd years. No problems to report.

Might be interesting to know how much gas you've burned off over the years for no apparent gain.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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As quoted by Mikey
Might be interesting to know how much gas you've burned off over the years for no apparent gain.
You drive a Jag because you worry about gas?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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I am not saying owners who start up their cars duing winter storage are doing anything incorrectly, however, having stored some cars for extended periods, I have done some research in this area. There are many experts who agree that a car properly stored up for the winter does not need to be started at all. I have left a couple of cars, properly prepared untouched for up to 18 months without any ill effects.

They argue starting a car once a week or once every other week can sometimes create more problems than it cures, and is not a good idea. A casual start up for less than 10 to 15 minutes creates condensation in both the crankcase which combined with oil products causes and acidic buildup. And water in the exhaust system promotes rust. In order to burn off the consdensation, the car must be brought up to normal operating temps... say 30 minutes and exhaust systems need to be hot enought to vaprize the water condensate.

I understand an owner like myself who wants to go out into the garage in mid winter to 'reconnect' with his car; but I have learned to do it without running the engine. So unless every time you are start it up, you are sure it goes through a thorough heat sink, you might consider doing less often and for a longer workout. And when you do start it up, be certain it is thoroughly warmed up before shutting it off and putting it back to bed. gordo
 

Last edited by GordoCatCar; Nov 29, 2011 at 05:33 PM.
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