Would this test the Heater Pump?
I am not getting heat. I actually forgot about it last spring but remembered the first cool evening.
I flushed the core and water flowed easily, so that probably is not the issue.
I have read 2 procedures for removing the heater pump, both are a PITA but I will probably try the one that your remove the Catalytic Converter.
Before I take it out I would love to know for sure if the pump is bad.
Does flued flow through the core at all time or only when the pump is engaged? I was thinking of turning the car on and then the heater without the hoses attached to the core and see if fluid flows.
I flushed the core and water flowed easily, so that probably is not the issue.
I have read 2 procedures for removing the heater pump, both are a PITA but I will probably try the one that your remove the Catalytic Converter.
Before I take it out I would love to know for sure if the pump is bad.
Does flued flow through the core at all time or only when the pump is engaged? I was thinking of turning the car on and then the heater without the hoses attached to the core and see if fluid flows.
Too close off this thread --- I ended up taking the car to a Brit car shop used by some Jag club acquaintances. I'm 75, don't bend well, don't really have a place to work on my car beyond my townhouse parking lot and I'm not averse to paying for what I can no longer do.
Just before going I was looking around for obvious signs of a coolant leak as I noticed the reservoir needing frequent topping off. There it was, orange coolant at the base of the plastic thermostat tower. A pressure test reveled leaks at both the tower top and bottom. The tower was replaced with the newer aluminum one, coolant flushed and replaced with what the receipt billed as "yellow" coolant. The heater pump and valve checked out fine and the heat function pronounced sound. So I'll use A2Bs trick of running the heat on high with high RPMs a few times over the summer to keep the heater functioning well. They also found the beginnings of play in the axle U-joints so I had those replaced, and they noted my 8-year-old tires were showing aging on the sidewalls. Off to Costco for some Michelin Defender 2s, maybe five of them since my original spare is dated 2001. Yikes. I had good service/ride with Generals on my X300 but, gosh, how can I pass up the panache of Michelins on sale.
Thanks to everyone for all the guidance and education.
Just before going I was looking around for obvious signs of a coolant leak as I noticed the reservoir needing frequent topping off. There it was, orange coolant at the base of the plastic thermostat tower. A pressure test reveled leaks at both the tower top and bottom. The tower was replaced with the newer aluminum one, coolant flushed and replaced with what the receipt billed as "yellow" coolant. The heater pump and valve checked out fine and the heat function pronounced sound. So I'll use A2Bs trick of running the heat on high with high RPMs a few times over the summer to keep the heater functioning well. They also found the beginnings of play in the axle U-joints so I had those replaced, and they noted my 8-year-old tires were showing aging on the sidewalls. Off to Costco for some Michelin Defender 2s, maybe five of them since my original spare is dated 2001. Yikes. I had good service/ride with Generals on my X300 but, gosh, how can I pass up the panache of Michelins on sale.
Thanks to everyone for all the guidance and education.
When your pump does go you dont need to take out the old one just fit a new one in the accessible pipe work. A Bosch one is about $60.
\if you look at my posts you will see I have written it up
\if you look at my posts you will see I have written it up
That is genius!
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RCSnyder
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
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Mar 24, 2014 08:40 PM
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