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Trying to solve no heat from the heater and it seems the heater pump is not working but can I find it ..NO ..seen a video with it on the LH chassis rail but its not there on mine.. I know its often the heater core but it did give heat when I bought it ...??? Cannot hear it run when I short out 30/87 on the relay socket.Fuse OK
If you remove the coolant tank and its associated bracket, you should be able to see it under there. From memory, only the upper bolt on the bracket needs to be completely removed, as the lower attachment is slotted.
Getting the hoses off the connections to the heater core. They're tucked under the RHS of the firewall (looking towards the rear). I elected to cut them off as I was replacing them anyway, and I didn't want the pain of damaging the core.
The dreaded 'instrumounts' that the assembly is mounted on. The top two aren't too bad, but you need to get under the car to get at the lower ones:- you'll need some extensions on the socket to reach them.
It's another of the jobs that are more laborious than difficult.
Thanks ...I have checked I have 12v at pin 30 on the pump relay but no resistance from pin 87 to earth so that tells me the pump is open circuit..probably the brushes . The magnet assembly comes off and the armature has the brushes nearest to the pump body so it should be possibe to repair rather than spend £75 on a used one.
RD's thread shows the motor disassembled somwhere. I used some brushes from an old Peugeot 306 door lock actuator 'while I was in there'. It's not really a job you want to do more than once every 10 years or so, and the odds are a used motor won't be much better
My pump didn't work and it was fuse 5 in the engine bay I think. Thank goodness for the guy who posted that bit of advice! Same with me, did work then didn't - I thought I'd checked all the fuses but plainly not.
My pump didn't work and it was fuse 5 in the engine bay I think. Thank goodness for the guy who posted that bit of advice! Same with me, did work then didn't - I thought I'd checked all the fuses but plainly not.
Fuse #3 (5A) in the engine bay compartment fusebox can cause a similar issue as it supplies power to the heater pump relay coil, among other things. That one can get taken out by the security sounder failing.
Fuse #15 (10A) that PB refers to is in line with the heater pump, so is another candidate.
Thanks ...I have checked I have 12v at pin 30 on the pump relay but no resistance from pin 87 to earth so that tells me the pump is open circuit..probably the brushes . The magnet assembly comes off and the armature has the brushes nearest to the pump body so it should be possibe to repair rather than spend £75 on a used one.
Thanks for the advice /info
For the brushes, I used these, available on Amazon and Ebay. They have to be sanded to size, but it is real easy. Just lay some wet / dry sandpaper on a flat surface, and rube the brushes across to reduce the size.
Good point and I did find that on UK ebay for £30 ( $25) but in my experience, the motors fail because the brushes wear out .Usually, the brush movement towards the commutator is stopped by the pigtail stopping movement in the brush box. Often just reversing the brush or lengthening the pigtail solves the problem.
At present, I am having difficulty getting eyes on the pump which following the pipes seems to be off to the left under the bulkhead box thing which makes it what is called in the motor trade a gynaecological job ( you can feel it but you can't see it ). Its very cold /wet here in UK so I don't want to disable the vehicle at present as I am expecting a visit from another forum member from Texas over Christmas and we will want to go for a drive.
Last edited by Pistnbroke; Dec 13, 2021 at 02:44 AM.
Hi PB,
I followed up here so as not to pull the other thread too OT.
The pump is below and slightly to the left of the water valve (looking to the rear of the car). You can't see it easily from above, although relocating the coolant tank will give you a better view. The orientation is shown in this plumbing diagram (pinched from RD's thread):
There is a bracket welded to the pump body that attaches right at the bottom of the bracket holding the water valve.
This the best shot I could get. The left side of pipe with the circled label attaches to the pump:
As the pump is showing open circuit and does not run with relay bridged out I think we go there first . the heater did work when I bought the car as I had to keep turning it off in the summer !!
Weather is too bad to work on it so it will have to wait
My heater pump quit working but I figured it could wait, since I keep the car in the garage and it seldom gets frigid here. But when I took the car in for the annual safety inspection it failed because the windshield defroster didn't get warm. So, that pretty much forced the issue. I ended up using a heater pump for a small truck, GM, I think, can't remember now. The difference in price was significant, to say the least !
After numerous attempts to locate the pump and failed I have ordered one for a Audi at £27 and will fit it in the right pipes . I have seen 8hrs quoted to get it out and replace or 1 hr for an in the pipes extra pump so when it warms up a bit we will have a go.
Thanks all for the help and leads to information
FINALLY GOT IT SORTED.
All I can say is this is a total A$$ pain of a job due to the restricted access.
The first pump I obtained was for an Audi at about £26. when it arrived it was a brushless motor which needs a three phase drive so clearly Audi were varying the speed of the pump for regulating the temperature. So that went back and was replaced with a Bosch pump (see photo) Took 3 days to come from Spain ..all Parts from Amazon.
Problem 1.
those clips on the hoses and access to same ..resorted to a dremel to cut the one below the expansion tank . total pain.
Problem 2.
The outlets on the pump were 19mm ( 3/4 in) some of the jaguar was 16mm and the ones on the matrix pipes about 18 mm. The pipes on the matrix were pushed on about 65mm and impossible to remove without you cut them with a utility knife. So the pump body sits vertically connected directly to the matrix pipe with about 4 in of hose .
There is just about room for it . I sprayed it black to fit in . worked immediately.
You will need an extensive range of 1/4 in drives inc a long flexible drive at least 300mm and new clips .
some photos below ask if you need more info. during the whole job I never saw or felt the old pump..must be way down and under.
Jag seem to be fobic about suppression on the pump so I fitted a diode ( 1n4005 ) and a 0.1 mf capacitor across the pump leads. Diode and cap ..band end to positive lead !! Access to clips in a pain in the A$$ so in some places these work well.
Heater pump location on 97
It's things like this ...
