XK8 Axle stand location for rear sub-frame removal
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Wyre Forest UK
XK8 Axle stand location for rear sub-frame removal
I will be starting my winter project (2000 XK8 Cab) in a week or so as soon as my back recovers from installing the fence and gates that was the deal with my Wife to be able to buy the Jag in the first place! - (married members will understand the deals and bartering that occurs when you buy an old car).
Anyway, I have to start somewhere and as the visible rust is at the rear I will drop the complete rear sub-frame first and sort that, the floor and the cracked bumper then move on to the front suspension, tensioners and gearbox oil change.
As I will be working just weekends (and 50% of the time will probably be gazing at the car and dreaming about driving it) I expect it will sit on the axle stands for a good 4-8+ weeks depending on how many worms appear when I open the can.
The front will be on its wheels but the rear will be on two 6 ton axle stands.
Bearing in mind that the rear of the sills will not be as strong as when it was new due to the rust in that area, where should I place the axle stands where it will not cause damage and will be sufficiently clear of the rear suspension to remove it completely?
Thanks
Mark
Anyway, I have to start somewhere and as the visible rust is at the rear I will drop the complete rear sub-frame first and sort that, the floor and the cracked bumper then move on to the front suspension, tensioners and gearbox oil change.
As I will be working just weekends (and 50% of the time will probably be gazing at the car and dreaming about driving it) I expect it will sit on the axle stands for a good 4-8+ weeks depending on how many worms appear when I open the can.
The front will be on its wheels but the rear will be on two 6 ton axle stands.
Bearing in mind that the rear of the sills will not be as strong as when it was new due to the rust in that area, where should I place the axle stands where it will not cause damage and will be sufficiently clear of the rear suspension to remove it completely?
Thanks
Mark
Last edited by scoobie; Oct 13, 2014 at 12:48 PM. Reason: spelling
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,854
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From: UK
You should place the stands at the jacking points on the sills, it is the only position on the sill that has any strength.
Looks like you will be way ahead of me, I wont get started until January.
Looks like you will be way ahead of me, I wont get started until January.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 163
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From: Wyre Forest UK
RD - Having seen your work on this forum I have little doubt that you will finish way ahead of me, (which is a good thing as I will probably need to follow your pictures 
)
Mark
)Mark
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 328
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
I will be starting my winter project (2000 XK8 Cab) in a week or so as soon as my back recovers from installing the fence and gates that was the deal with my Wife to be able to buy the Jag in the first place! - (married members will understand the deals and bartering that occurs when you buy an old car).
Anyway, I have to start somewhere and as the visible rust is at the rear I will drop the complete rear sub-frame first and sort that, the floor and the cracked bumper then move on to the front suspension, tensioners and gearbox oil change.
As I will be working just weekends (and 50% of the time will probably be gazing at the car and dreaming about driving it) I expect it will sit on the axle stands for a good 4-8+ weeks depending on how many worms appear when I open the can.
The front will be on its wheels but the rear will be on two 6 ton axle stands.
Bearing in mind that the rear of the sills will not be as strong as when it was new due to the rust in that area, where should I place the axle stands where it will not cause damage and will be sufficiently clear of the rear suspension to remove it completely?
Thanks
Mark
Anyway, I have to start somewhere and as the visible rust is at the rear I will drop the complete rear sub-frame first and sort that, the floor and the cracked bumper then move on to the front suspension, tensioners and gearbox oil change.
As I will be working just weekends (and 50% of the time will probably be gazing at the car and dreaming about driving it) I expect it will sit on the axle stands for a good 4-8+ weeks depending on how many worms appear when I open the can.
The front will be on its wheels but the rear will be on two 6 ton axle stands.
Bearing in mind that the rear of the sills will not be as strong as when it was new due to the rust in that area, where should I place the axle stands where it will not cause damage and will be sufficiently clear of the rear suspension to remove it completely?
Thanks
Mark
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 22
From: Telford
Used the std sill jacking points with axle stands resting on some timber to get an extra few inches of height. You will need this to get well under there to get the exhaust mounts off!
The jacking point is the back of the rear axle assembly on the casting that holds the radius arms. The axle will move a little while the bushes flex then "up she goes"
Again the back axle assembly is heavy!
The jacking point is the back of the rear axle assembly on the casting that holds the radius arms. The axle will move a little while the bushes flex then "up she goes"
Again the back axle assembly is heavy!
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