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XK8 Control Switch Lights Not Working?

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Old 01-02-2018, 02:29 PM
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Default XK8 Control Switch Lights Not Working?

Hi,
This is my first question in the forum, so hopefully done this right?!

The issue I'm having is with the control panel that has the fog lamps/heated seat/traction control/hazards and headlamp angle switches:

The small red lamps to indicate weather the switches are activated have stopped working, however the buttons themselves still function as usual.
The pulsing light under the hazards switch still works but any that use the small red light have failed.

Do any of the electrical experts here know which cable in the loom controls this, as my guess is that the issue lays here. I have tried cleaning both parts of the plug, but no change.
I'm hoping that if I can determine which cable to look for then I can stick a meter on it and start to trace the problem back?

Any other suggestions are more than welcome!

TIA

Chris
 
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:42 PM
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I'm not an expert , I just play one on the internet .

Fuse # 6 / 5 amp red driver side fuse box

Thanks , The Jaguar Whisper .
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-02-2018 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 01-03-2018, 01:36 AM
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Thanks, will give that a try later and let you know
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
I'm not an expert , I just play one on the internet .

Fuse # 6 / 5 amp red driver side fuse box

Thanks , The Jaguar Whisper .
Unfortunately no luck there, looking at the fuse diagram it seems that fuse controls the function of the buttons as well, which isn't a problem. Thanks anyway - hopefully someone has some wisdom they can share!
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:47 AM
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http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf

Working on someones alternator wiring now . Did a quick check earlier for the original reply . See figure 9.2 Center Console Switch Pack , fuse is the square 16 , fuse location figure 1.2 . You would have to pull up the other subsystems prints to verify if this is the shared fuse which I did not do .
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-03-2018 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 01-03-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf

Working on someones alternator wiring now . Did a quick check earlier for the original reply . See figure 9.2 Center Console Switch Pack , fuse is the square 16 , fuse location figure 1.2 . You would have to pull up the other subsystems prints to verify if this is the shared fuse which I did not do .
Excellent stuff thank you - from what I can work out (though those types of diagrams are a bit beyond me), it is indeed a shared fuse. Gonna pull it all apart tomorrow and have a look (I'm more of a hands on to diagnose type of approach), as I'm pretty sure this problem started after I installed the after market head unit - so could be something as simple as a damaged cable in that harness, they did all come apart a few times in the process. Thanks again for your help, I'll keep you updated!
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 01:44 PM
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Physically you would look for a unlocked wire pin or socket ( with a tug ) in the area of concern's connector . The color code is on page 14 although it can be hard to discern the actual color on the wire .
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
Physically you would look for a unlocked wire pin or socket ( with a tug ) in the area of concern's connector . The color code is on page 14 although it can be hard to discern the actual color on the wire .
Once again thank you for your knowledge! I'll keep you posted, hopefully get a chance to have a look tomorrow
 
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:50 AM
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Still no luck...

i had it all apart today, down to the circuit board from the switch pack, and the connector block from the harness.

I could get each each of the LEDs to work by taking a live from the switches. So I know that they do I fact still illuminate.

Each LED has a separate wire coming in from the harness, but they all return to the same wire - no.9 on the block. So i have inspected both the wire in the block, and the route of LEDs on the board and can find no damage.

Short of trying a new switch console at £200+ I'm out of ideas?
 
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Old 01-04-2018, 04:45 PM
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Do you have power at the FC55-9 socket ( Brown / Red wire ) on the harness side . With multiple paths for that power to go through all those items can't fail at the same time so that points to the common denominator fuse and the wiring up to the connector . Might be fuse location error
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-04-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
Do you have power at the FC55-9 socket ( Brown / Red wire ) on the harness side . With multiple paths for that power to go through all those items can't fail at the same time so that points to the common denominator fuse and the wiring up to the connector . Might be fuse location error
Am going to test that with a meter on the weekend. Also I see that the first component that the brown/red wire leads to is a resistor so will test this also.
 
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Old 01-05-2018, 07:52 AM
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Test the resistor with the connector off and will probably read about 200 ohms
 
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Old 01-07-2018, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
Test the resistor with the connector off and will probably read about 200 ohms

Put a meter on the board today - 13.8 on one side of the resistor and 0 on the other, so that's located the problem. Also tested it with no power and the meter showed an open circuit, so this must pin it down ?


Have punched the numbers from it onto google but not much has come up, other than it would appear it's a Varistor (variable resistor?).


Gonna take it into my local components experts tomorrow and see if they can identify it and supply a replacement.The numbers are:

30V 593-PH 9513

Does this mean anything to you?

TIA
 

Last edited by Chrisewan57; 01-07-2018 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 01-07-2018, 01:55 PM
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Look like this ? A plain resistor would have worked on the original design in my opinion as there is not much of a voltage swing .

Suntan Varistor

or like this :

https://www.budgetronics.eu/index.ph...=18000&lang=EN
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-07-2018 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:16 PM
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Old 01-08-2018, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
Look like this ? A plain resistor would have worked on the original design in my opinion as there is not much of a voltage swing .

Suntan Varistor

or like this :

https://www.budgetronics.eu/index.ph...=18000&lang=EN
Electronics shop today said that the numbers on that resistor don't give enough information to supply a replacement? Do you know any more about it than I? Or at least enough to be able to suggest a replacement? TIA
 
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:20 PM
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I do not think that part is your problem. You should solder it back in.

This is a varistor which is a protective device that is supposed to be open unless the voltage reaches 30V and then it becomes a near short circuit to protect the rest of the circuitry from voltage spikes. You are supposed to not see it conducting in normal use.

I suggest looking for a hairline break on the circuit board traces.
 
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
I do not think that part is your problem. You should solder it back in.

This is a varistor which is a protective device that is supposed to be open unless the voltage reaches 30V and then it becomes a near short circuit to protect the rest of the circuitry from voltage spikes. You are supposed to not see it conducting in normal use.

I suggest looking for a hairline break on the circuit board traces.
I understand what you're saying...However, the varistor was also tested in circuit, and when we activated a switch (which would normally turn on an LED), there was still no reading on the other side of it - 13.8v in and 0 out. Does that add up? Thanks
 
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisewan57
I understand what you're saying...However, the varistor was also tested in circuit, and when we activated a switch (which would normally turn on an LED), there was still no reading on the other side of it - 13.8v in and 0 out. Does that add up? Thanks

I expect if you trace how it is wired in on the circuit board it is parallel across the voltage source. You are describing it as if it is wired in series with the voltage source. It is expected to be open circuit in normal use and wired in parallel. When it sees an overvoltage only then it provides a temporary short.
 
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:19 PM
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Do you have a pic of the component side and circuit side of the area of concern and can reverse engineer it as the wiring guide only shows a classic circuit of a LED in the path of a ( classic current protection ) resistor . The dot is the tie in point for the other LED's
 
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Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-08-2018 at 01:28 PM.


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