Has anyone else had this happen? I have checked into a replacement radiator and have been told only option is replacement. Researching the radiators end caps I found a company in Dallas TX that makes them to OEM specs and was very surprised at the cost to ship it to me. Very good price and quick shipping. Therm Processes of Dallas TX is the company has anyone else had any dealings with this company?

 

Replacing an end cap is false economy. Not knowing what you drive, mileage and yr. of car doesn't help with a recommendation. 80,000 or more miles? Replace radiator. The end caps break/crack usually because the radiator is mounted under stress or the coolant is low and the water pump cavitates causing surging of coolant and air. As it cavitates, the plastic tank swells then contracts. A cracked end cap is a result of an issue, not a failure by itself. Bite the bullet and buy a name brand radiator, then find out why it cracked. History of accident repair? that would put stress on the core support. Do you have a plastic impeller on the water pump? They can loosen and cause cavitation.

 

That failure is common.

I have not dealt with that company, but the whole idea seems interesting. As usual, it boils down to the economics of it. If you are looking at working a radiator, the car has to be out of commission for a bit, cooling fluid has to be dealt with, as well as the lines to the transmission. So it is not necessarily just about the radiator itself, unless the car is a side project.

When it comes to the radiator, they seem readily available. Have you checked rockauto? There are a couple of options depending on the transmission (the fittings to the cooler are different). They did not seem outrageously priced the last time I looked.

The other route is repair. You have to get one (or 2!) end tanks. And then 2 gaskets. And then some form of a tool (or 2 separate tools) to deal with the crimping of the end tank on the radiator core. Are you going to need a set of clamps to temporarily keep everything together, too? Once all of that is ordered, shipped and performed, the only cheap option is to test on the car, with everything put back together, fluid refilled, etc. If there is a leak, it is back to square one. I somehow doubt this is going to make sense, but one can only respect the desire to learn a new procedure, and keep extra tools in the process.

One last thing: Would it be possible to "weld" the existing plastic end tank in place? Harbor freight has cheap plastic welders. Maybe worth a look. I would certainly not claim the skills to do this, and there is certainly the potential to make the situation worse, and render the car undrivable. Just a thought.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Just bought this Jag As Is found crack in end cap after driving home and letting stepson drive for a few minutes. It has 126,000 on it with a discrep. in mileage. Beautiful car in overall great condition, Thank you for the info. on the possible radiator issues esp. water pump. Have friend that can test radiator with all the tools needed to repair it. If I didn't have that I would be looking harder at replacing it, the pricing on radiators new are from 6-900 in the parts departments locally for this Jag. Used I found from 175-350 mostly out of state, Will try to let everyone know how it turns out replacing the end cap and any problems doing it. Been doing some repair work on cars for years, but this is my first Jag.

 

On which side did you have the crack?

If it is on the right side (where the top hose is connected to) the replacement should be simple as that would not involve having to deal with the transmisson fluid cooling elements.

Thanks for locating a company which sells radiator repair parts: https://www.thermprocesses.com/

 

Please, what year? is this car.

 

Sounds crazy doesn't but my car came home with both failed so something to check. I say that because it allows the engine to move significantly and will cause damage to radiator and the cross over tube due to added stress. They also allow the engine to drop about an inch and makes the oil pan stick out making it more vulnerable to getting smacked by a speed bump like mine was when I bought it. Really hard to inspect as they are way down in there and best if you have an inspection camera. I had to do power steering lines and had rack removed doing front end rebuild when I changed mine or the left side can be a bear.

They are oil filled and fail I think any car of significant age should inspect. If you can get some pictures looks for what looks like streaks of oil on the lower metal part of the mount.

I like the idea of repairing the radiator. New tanks and do a good flush if cheap enough.

Just had on old guy memory: When I was young a friend I grew up with took over his grand fathers radiator shop. Yep used to be a very common thing to work on radiators. They would solder on the cores, replace the cores completely but almost never had to replace a tank because they were metal. Funny how things have changed. Never had a valve cover crack back then either. Of course you may have been on the 2nd or 3rd motor by the time a car hit 20 years old.

 

The Jag is a 1998 XK8 convertible in British Racing Green with a Cream top. It has roughly 126,000 miles, with a issue on the mileage with the 3rd owner. So far the radiator having a crack on the passenger side, and needing to have the clips in the drivers seat redone I haven't found any major issues so far. Being this old I was pleasantly surprised at how god it is.

 

Thank you for the heads up on the motor mounts, I've seen something like what you described before on a old hot rod I had in the 70's. It had a Mercruiser 351 engine that would fly if you let it, it broke the mounts twice before we found a strong enough mount for it.
I also have memories of the old shops where they could rebuild any radiator and make it like new or better than new. Those guys could make your radiator preform no matter what you wanted it to do. (Stock to racing rebuilds that fit like factory)

 

Hi Richard,

Spend some time reading about the fixes you will find in the forum. Lots of guys have posted really good stuff that will help you watch for things that are known issues.

Like the reason I got my car so low priced was time for new power steering hoses. The original hose on the high pressure side was redesigned to help with a rupture issue from heat. Mine lasted 19 years. The long low pressure hose that wraps in front of the radiator has a quick fit connector right above the bushing on the swaybar on the right side (below air cleaner box). It starts slow leak past the O-rings, wipes out the bushing on the swaybar and risks running low oil.

Lots of rubber stuff will be starting to fail if not already replaced so be sure to check things. The upper control arm bushings are gone if not already replaced, my entire front end build was way past due for replacement, lots of fun.

Hope you guys enjoy your car as much as I have, even though far from perfect it has been lots of fun to drive.

 

If you decide to undertake this repair at least buy both tanks and all the seals and gaskets that are associated with them. These parts fatigue over time and if one has failed the other is surely to follow. Be aware that the core itself can erode over time. Colorado river and the grand canyon. Fluids erode things they come in contact with over time. Dont cheap out on this basic maintenance item. You can buy a Nissens radiator online or through a local distributer for less than 300 bucks.<br />I put one in my 2000 xk8 and its a perfect fit and does the job of keeping her in the right temp zone.<br />Good luck

 

Had to check that name brand out just in case. Search yielded rockauto depending on connectors male or female 160 or 300, I can only guess which my luck would be on the connector. Good to know an aftermarket name that stands up.

 

Nissens is an oe manufacturer for many vehicles. And if you buy from the right source you will get a lifetime warranty. I do not believe rock auto offers anything but a 1 year warranty.
dial 1800radiator (1800 723 4286) from your phone and you will be in contact with your local distribution warehouse.

 

This has to do with the transmission. There is an oil cooler on the driver side end tank. The oil lines from/to the transmission thread into it. The male type is for the older 5HP24, the female type is for the newer 6HP26. Best I can figure, rockauto has the right radiator if you pick the right year for your car. Besides, someone has located an adapter, if there is ever a need.

More details: xk8-radiator-oem-part-102561/

Rockauto has great graphics detailing dimensions for these radiators, so you should be able to order what you need. Besides, these oil cooler lines are clearly visible by popping the hood open.

Specifics: NISSENS 66701

Best of luck. Keep us posted.

 

Sorry it's been so long since I posted on this repair. The cap was a perfect fit and my radiator guy did a complete cleaning of the radiator while he had cap off. Installed and flushed engine with distilled water and refilled. Works great now, only issue I had was I forgot to top off oil cooler before buttoning up lines and had to take to local shop to top off transmission fluid. Had error codes reset and tested, miracles still happen too, no errors appeared.
Talked with several older radiator repair shop owners about the caps after I got it fixed and they all knew the shop in Dallas and have bought caps from them for years. They have used them for years until the Japans radiators came out and it was cheaper to replace on most new cars. They are still doing repairs on older big engine radiators though so still in business. If someone wants to get their hands dirt and a few scratches not that bad a repair.
Here are some pictures of the Jag after I finished.

 

Replacing the tanks makes no sense as it requires special tools, chance of breaking clips gasket leakage etc. Most radiator shops wont even do it. Recently replaced one in my 01 XK8 with a new Nissen from Rock Auto for around $120. Tank cracking from age and heat is common on all vehicles. Plastic is a hole lot cheaper than brass and if it lasts past the warranty period why would the mfg. care. Be aware that the left upper small outlet tube on the Nissen is open and needs to be capped. I found out the hard way when filling system.

 

Good to hear you got it fixed Richard.
Maybe you'll have time to post an intro in the new members section now?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

 

NISSENS 66701 {#MJB4190AD, MJB4190AE, MJB4190AF} Core Dimensions: 665 X 440 X 26 mm; Aluminum, Plastic; Standard: w/ I MALE TOC conn. Info
Front; MALE o/c fittings



$156.79




HELLA 376764041 {#MJA4190AF} Behr Service; 665x26x440 (MM) Info
Center; 665x26x440



$253.79
Interesting prices must have been a sale on it that day.