I'm sure that want's to come out.
I assume the new seal is just going into the recess you can see in the second pic in post #19 and stopping against the ring?
You may need to give it some welly!

 

Problem solved

I used the new crank seal, with the idler pulley on top of it, and a plank of wood on top of that, to knock out the ring, which also seated the new seal after a few more taps to seat it level and flush.

So i think it's done.

God, all that time i spent messing about with something i just had to bash out lol.

 

Thankyou to everyone, i would never have twigged it, it looked so much like part of the casing.

 

Sometimes they need to be deformed to reduce their diameter enough to extract.
Good luck

 

I might have removed enough of it's outside edge while trying to clean out what i thought was the seating recess for the new seal.
I guess if i'd have carried on long enough it may have fallen out on it's own

Thank you Bob, a seal driver of the type you linked to might come in handy if i ever need to replace my wheel bearings.

 

 

Without those great photos, I think you would still be fighting this.

Congrats!

 

The cover will be a casting you will break it before bending it or a the very least crack it. The cover should be Aluminum ant the seal will be rubber and steel. If you have a caliper that measures 6 inches (sorry Americans never got into metrics) check the outside diameter of the new seal and the opening in the cover for the old seal they should be almost the same . From looking at the photos your post 19 It looks like part of the old seal is still there to me anyway the metal outer part.

Glad you got it .

 

Looks like you are moving forward again.

 

You saved me jchavez, and Norri

I was not even suspicious of that inner ring being anything other than part of the casing until you guys alerted me.

I started this thread in the belief that the crank seal was rubber, and even after GGG stated that they were of composite design i assumed that any metal in the seal was encased in rubber, as in the design of the replacement seal.

I couldn't tell from the picture which bits were metal or rubber.

I wasn't expecting a seal with rubber at the front and a metal backing plate, but then i've never seen a crank seal before.

I wish i could have taken a picture of the casing with the backing plate removed, to save anyone else making the same mistake, but having used the new seal to drive out the backing plate, i can't do that now.

What i can say, is that i DO NOT recommend using the new seal to drive out the old backing plate, as i understand they can be much more stubborn than mine to remove, so you may ruin the new seal.

The clues were there though, once you guys alerted me.

Pictures of the casing in the JEPC and JTIS show the casing with the seal gone, as does the torqueing diagram of the front cover.

I didn't take notice previously because it wouldn't be the first time an official, or manufacturers, diagram showed a part that was slightly different in detail to the part for your specific model.

Blackonyx's article shows a picture of the new seal, but it's an XJ8, and i was aware there were slight differences when i ordered the VVT solenoid seals for the inside of the front cover on my XK8, before finding out there aren't any solenoids in the front cover of my XK, and no need for the seals.

They are shown in the JEPC, but not listed in the index.

Now i know why

The crank seal fitment in the casing could have been slightly different as well.

Oh well, another lesson learned the hard way, but with no harm done, which is the main thing

I'd like to thank in print, everyone that has posted in this thread.

Every post has been valuable in one way or another.

Kudos fellas.

 

Thanks all!