Hey,
New to the forum and I have been sleuthing around the Tech Helps for information on some problems I have been experiencing. So far so good. The main one that I fixed is the abs module. Actually turned out to be pretty easy thanks to the plethora of information found on this Forum. Abs still flashes from time to time but I think that may be the repaired wire on one of my speed sensors.

So thank you guys so much for the awesome information on DIY fixes.

This car has been great to me. I put 7,000 miles on it since I purchased it a few months ago. Great road tripping vehicle.

Today I was headed out to Va Beach and stopped for gas. Filled up as I normally do and went in to purchase a drink. When I went in to start the car I was quite disappointed. I let it do its checks as I always do before actually cranking it over. While cranking it, it decided that it did not want to start. The starter was cranking the engine but it would just not take off and start running. To me it sounds like a fuel pump related issue but with Jags who knows. I cranked it for 10-15 sec a few times and gave it some gas and boy was it rough. Had it been a beater I would of just pushed through but not on my lady. Had a tow truck come and took it to my local Import.
Over the past month or so it has had a few rough starts but nothing I was majorly concerned with.

Got home and I have been on here for hours trying to figure out what may be the culprit.

-I have had the battery load tested recently and it tested all clear. Mint condition.
-Recently re soldered the Abs Module broken prong with a Nuclear grade solder.
-The drive to the gas station was about 20 minutes so it had plenty of time to warm up. Learned today about the Cylinder Washing. So I will not be moving from driveway to street any more.

Next things on the list are to have the
-Thermostat Tower and Thermostat replaced. Read about that today, how that is a major fail component.
-Complete Timing and water pump replacement. Another Major fail component
-Also read that its a good idea to replace the Transmission fluid. Though I'm not sure how its possible with a sealed unit but I'm sure the answer is floating around here somewhere.

I'm kinda scattered brained at the moment. To me its like trying to diagnose weather or not I have HIV or a common cold.

I found this link.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
And I think that is a good place to start.

I guess what I am asking is whether or not this sounds like a fuel related issue or Timing Issue. Does this sound like a fuel pump gone bad out of nowhere or a major issue. For all I know the gas was crap. Is it possible to put too much gas in your tank and flood it somehow? I usually top off due to being on the highway.

I'm sure I left some pertinent information out but those are the points that I am stuck on at the moment. Thank you all for any information you may be able to pass my way. I know there will be more to come.

 

Stutter, hello my fellow nuke (Ret. Navy, submariner, retired out of Norfolk, lived off of Terminal BLVD). I think I can possibly help you out a little bit with your problem. What I want you to try is turning the key to the RUN position, waiting 5 seconds, then rolling the key to the START position. Does the car catch much quicker or does it still fight you to start? If it catches pretty easy, then it is your fuel pump starting to go and what you are experiencing is the fuel system is draining back to the gas tank and when you try to start it that way, it can't build up enough pressure to give the engine enough fuel to keep running. But, letting it build up pressure first, the pump can then do its job.

As for the repair job on the wiring, find yourself some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-070". This is heat shrink on steriods. I use it where I work now (nuke plant in MD) to survive a nuclear reactor accident. I think it will survive the underside of your car. The big thing is to make sure you have atleast an inch of the insulation on the wire insulation on each end and then to heat up the Raychem to the point that it makes a little ornage donut around the wire at the end of the heat shrink. You do that, it will be like you never cut the wire in the first place.

If you are worried about your car being flooded, here is the trick to clear the engine. Prior to starting the car, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor. With the gas pedal depressed, attempt to start the car. The car should not start as this is a command to the ECU to not admit any fuel to the engine. This will cycle air through the engine to remove the excess fuel. After about 5 seconds of cranking, you should be able to start it normally.

If you ever want to do a road trip and get some work done on your car, come on up to California, MD. That is where I am and I will turn some wrenches with you.

 

Welcome to the forum!

My guess is the fuel pump, but you also need to get the secondary tensioners replaced at a minimum without delay with your mileage on a '97. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail where you can measure the pressure and get a quick go/no go on the fuel pump.

Please repost in the '96-'06 XK8/R forum...this is where the folks most knowledgeable on the XK8 hang out.

 

Welcome to the forum Stutterinkow,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XK8/XKR forum. This is the place for questions about your model.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Hi, I had a similar problem with my last XK8. It would start and run perfectly 75 % of the time but occasionally it would not start on the first turn of the key then it would take as long as 15 minutes of trying before it would start usually followed by rough running for a while. Eventually it failed to start at all and I had it towed to the local Jaguar specialist who build race XK8s E types and Mk2s. After four days of investigations they very sheepishly called me to inform me that the problem was the original upper timing chain tensioners which had disintergrated. This was allowing the cams to go way out of timing depending on their position when I stopped the enging. Sometimes the chains were in tension correctly and the car would start , other times the chains were slack and the engine sensors read this and would not allow the car to start. The original tensioners were made of plastic which becomes brittle with age , they fitted upgraded tensioners which are metal. No problems after this but a £3000 bill for parts and labour.
Hope this is not your problem but could be.
Regards.

 

It may be coincidence, but I remember occasional starting issues before the timing chain tensioners went on my '99 XK8 at about 88K miles and blew the engine. I knew I was rolling the dice, and still wound up paying my indy mechanic to install new ones on the used replacement engine...

 

Thanks Thermo. Actually my father is the Nuke Im the army grunt. Where can I get that "Raychem WCSF-070"?

Update on car. Low fuel pressure. Shop says replace fuel pump. So I will be doing that myself. Should of just had the dang car towed here and saved the diagnostic fee. I was quoted around $900 for fuel pump and spark plug. I think not. My fuel pump part number is JLM 12204. When I did a search on that part it is anywhere from $110 to $150. Shop total for fuel pump was more like $350 for the pump its self. So I ask you. What brand fuel pump is recommended for this job? Is there any Upgraded ones that would cost $350 Vs $120?
Is there anything you recommend for this job? What all should I replace/be prepared for with a fuel pump replacement?

I am also thinking about taking on the Timing Job myself. I downloaded JTIS and have it up and running. What is a good place for all necessary parts and does anybody on here have any tools for sale/rent(The specialty tools). Thank you guys for all your help. I will defiantly be on here posting updates on my work.

Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

 

Stutter, look on E-bay. You can find it there. If you are in the VA Beach/Norfolk area, drive down Princess Anne and when you cross the rail road tracks (about 2 miles? from Military Highway), there is an electronics shop there on the north side of the road. They may have it too. If not, they may have something in stock that is very similar to the Raychem. Ask them for some heat shrink tubing with the internal sealant.