They drive fine.... Most of the cars I have done have been used on the track so retaining some of the features was not a consideration..... I understand why other places came up with "the box of tricks" to fool the system so you can retain the look of the interior.....
The XK we are doing shortly will have a different instrument binacle..... Similar, just different as we will be using individual clocks....

The green car was suppose to be a "retro E Type" look, you can see more on facebook
XK8 Coupe

 

OK. So if I'm understanding it correctly, your conversions don't hold on to the car's original features? In other words the car won't function as stock?

I'm not after a track car. I'm after a road car and a daily driver at that.

 

The XK I am doing is a road car, all I am saying is the gauges will be different because they require the ECU to work with other modules, I can not care about that so by changing the gauges you can ignore all the crap the screen tries to tell you.... You will still have traction control, the type of ECU I use also allows you to swap by the flick of a switch between 3 maps so you can have economy, road and race

 

OK, sorry. I misunderstood you.

So the only reason to change the gauges is so you won't have the fault warnings? I remember this was one of Tiff's complains when he tested the XKR-R on Fifth Gear. It kept saying the wrong part was fitted for the transmission or something.

But so the car works as stock and retains all the functions including traction control, CATS, VVT etc?

 

Correct

I have driven in the Jaguar XKRR and yes the screen says wrong part fitted, gearbox missing was a good one, warning lights and all sorts were going on

 

OK. If it feels stock and all systems work as they should, it seems like something I would like to do.

How much does the conversion normally costs?

And you normally use the diesel S-Type parts instead of going the route Jaguar went with the XKR-R, such as the Tremec T-56 etc?

 

I used the T56 on the first conversion I done back in 98 before Jaguar, it is a very good box, just expensive...... The S Type box bolts straight on so no issues with adapter plates and is a lot cheaper particularly if you get a low mileage second hand unit

 

That's useful info.Thanks. And how does it shift in comparison to the T56, which is a very good box?

Do you use the 5-speed manual from the S-type petrol or the 6-speed manual from the diesel?

A reason for the T56 use was probably that it could handle the power. The V6 S-types, which were the only models available with a manual box maxed out at around 240bhp, which is way bellow the XKR over 400bhp possibilities.

 

If you was going to do an R I would probably go the T56 particularly if you was going to tune the engine, if you was going to keep the engine standard you could get away with the S Type..... On an 8 the S Type box is fine, even though the BHP is quite low the S Type box have to take a large amount of torque over 400 ftlbs

 

So even for a standard XKR, you would say a T56 would be recommended? I'm not sure if when you said R you meant just a stock XKR or if you meant trying to mimic the XKR-R, which had 450bhp or something.

And which S type manual box do you use, petrol or diesel?

 

Forget the XKR-R...... Just a normal R left standard an S Type box would probably be OK but if you started to play then you would have to change to the T56

 

OK. But again, does it matter if you use the 5-speed from the petrol V6 or the 6-speed from the diesel V6 S-type?

 

Converted by my father and I. Still uses all Jaguar gauges. No fault codes. All CAN comms up and running.

Can connect WDS and read codes. Access datalogger and read signals from transmission module.

 

I looked into putting a manual onto the back of my dust covered High HP build (600+hp) and one of the things I found was that the Jaguar manual trans weren't built for much more than 400hp. This drove me to using a trans like the TR6060. I researched that I would have to go with a tripple disc clutch. I purchased a trans housing and 3D modeled an aluminum flywheel before shelving the project.

My question is, why would you want to put a manual into the car if you aren't planning on racing it or put it behind a high horse power engine ? A lot of money and work on a low value vehicle just to be able to manually shift.

 

Has to be the 6 speed no other fits

 

OK, thanks. Good to know.

 

That's a very good question. I want a daily driver which is also fun and good looking. Fun to me means shifting. Otherwise I wouldn't buy a V8 coupe. I would just buy a 4 door saloon or even a FWD car, if what I wanted was just to get around.

As for being a low value vehicle, maybe in England they are low value. Probably because you see one in every corner everyday there and cars are dirty cheap there in general. But here not only are they quite rare, but the ok ones sell for over 15K.

So the question is a different one. 15K for the car plus what, 5K for the manual swap? Puts it at 20K. Can you buy something better for that? Better meaning V6 or V8 with similar power, gorgeous sport looks and a manual transmission and not from a low key manufacturer.

 

…So the question is a different one. 15K for the car plus what, 5K for the manual swap? Puts it at 20K. Can you buy something better for that? Better meaning V6 or V8 with similar power, gorgeous sport looks and a manual transmission and not from a low key manufacturer…


I’ve always liked swaps and other unique improvements to cars. Your $5k swap will quickly turn into $10K. A lot of us tend to do a quick mental cost calculation, but forget to add in the cost of other peripheral items and the amount of extra time it takes. Besides a transmission, flywheel and clutch assembly, did you add in the master cylinder with clutch pedal and brake fluid, plus the time to mount it all in the bulkhead. (Do you worry about a clutch fluid level sensor and clutch disengaged switch for starting the car. – May not pass a safety inspection if the car can start with the trans in gear and the clutch not engaged.) Do you have a brake line tube bender and fittings? You have to bend and route the line to the clutch. What about the driveshaft? Rear transmission mount/support? I spent close to $400 having a custom drive shaft made for my conversion project. (Do you keep flex couplers or go with U-joints?)
As stated elsewhere in this thread, are you going to use a stand-alone engine controller or just put up with the car sending automatic transmission errors / codes. If you stay with the stock ECM, you’ll have to figure out how get rid of the stock tune associated with the automatic transmission. (Your idle might increase or become confused because there isn’t a constant low level load without a torque converter.
Many little details associated with a modern street engine we overlook that cost $$$ and time to figure out.

 

​​​​Melhook can you please please send me a message on here to discuss this. I have an s type r that I want to sort and just need some electrical help. What you have done is exactly what I'm looking for.

I will literally pay you for information haha.

Hope I can get in touch with you soon

 

Hi, Can you please, please send me a direct message on here to talk about this as this electrocic issue is something I really need help with on my conversion.

Thanks