I found this on a search for rear camber shims.... I do not know if they are the parts you need, but a shim in the rear axleshaft would be the cure for excessive negative camber. And I read earlier these shims were OEM parts. gordo

http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/merchant....=V8Cars_Diff_5

Adding halfshaft shims will increase the positive rear camber even more.

How did you get positive camber from using shorter [lowering] springs?

I wouldthink the installation oflowering springs would yield negative camber, in which case the axle shaft,acting as the upper wishbone, would need to be shimmed out.

This is another one of those discussions that reaffirms my concerns about modifying springs. There's a guy on Roadfly XJ8 who has been told by his "technicians" that they need to cut his front crossmember to relocate wishbone mounting points.

In all the discussions I read about aftermarket springs, I never see concise information from knowledgeable people. It looks to me as if owners spend the money to lower the car, then scramble around trying to find out how to balance the ride height or bring the camber back into range.

I'm left to assume that the spring manufacturers and vendors didn't do any homework, or they would know exactly what camber and bump steer adjustments would be necessary to compensate for the lower ride height: and what shock package would work best with their springs. Seems like Jaguar at least got it close.

Quite right Andrew, I agree entirely. My major lamentis being unableto obtain any type oftechnical data package for any of the springs. One would think a mfr or distributorcould at least provide working spring rates in order for end users to determine relative values among the various aftermarket offerings and OEM rates.

All I know is that someone said Arden is stiffer than Paramount; and that H&Rs are stiffer than the Eibachs. But you can't find Eibachs any more. Where Mina Gallery fits into the mix is anybody's guess.My guess is they are also softer than H&R.

One would have to assumeallare stiffer than OEM; but then it appears Jaguar has installed at least four different spring setups for different models in different markets. One each for US vs. Euro; matrixed byCoupe vs. Convert. Whether these are four different springs, or some othermix of same,is a mystery as well. Finally, there remained the elusivemythical rear spacer purported utilzedto raise the backends of US models to meetDOT height standards.

Albeit a quandary of confusions. Too bad this isn't "The Good Old Days" circa 1956... We could just torch the coils, or cut a couple off, and be done with it. Gordo

Hey Gordo,

Right after my post, Mike at ET wrote that he can't get camber on the front of his XJR... and he sells the springs. It would probably take lengthened upper front wishbones, and shortened rear lower wishbones, to get the geometry right on any model where such a significant change in the ride height is made. I wonder if the guy with the red coupe jacked up in the back has noticed how much more squirrelly his car is under hard braking.

Do you have a coupe or convertible?

And dont forgot there is an OEM eccentric fulcrum bolt (front lower rear wishbone on) which is designed to adjust front wheel camber.

Found out last time I had the front end alligned that the camber couldn't be brought into spec because there were no eccentric fulcrum bolts, and they tell me many vehicles these days don't come with them. Anyway, I called the ******* and they want $60 each for the two of them.

Does anyone know of a source for the bolts that is less expensive?

Thanks.

Get the Part Number from the dealer.

If it is JZB100086 then they are $16 ea. at Jag Porsche Las Vegas

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214626

Note; I am guessing these are the fulcrum bolts, but I can'tsee a pic to verify. So dont just up and order them w/o confirming they are proper P/N. gordo

JZB100086 is the part number the dealer gave me a few months back, and WOW, what a big difference in price, unless the parts man was looking at the cost of another part.

Thanks for the information.

I know this is an old thread. FWIW...I purchased Jaguar part JZB 1000-86. These were NOT Eccentric Fulcrum bolts.

what was it then?

Clarification... I rushed my reply. The head of the bolt is not eccentric. The offset is in the shaft of the bolt. So when the bolt is installed you cannot determine if the bolt is eccentric or not. For 1998 XK8 with VIN below 031302, you need JZB1000-86 installed. If you have a later VIN the factory installed the eccentric bolt.

If you ever had the control arms bushes changed by a dealer they would automatically fit the eccentric bolts regardless of the year..... As was said in another thread things maybe different for you US guys but here in the UK it was standard practice

I was reading this thread with interest and came across a couple thoughts. Having worked at a dealer during the control arm bushing updates, we did not automatically install eccentric bolts. Many of the bushings were done under warranty and Jaguar surely would not pay for those special bolts. The only time those were installed, at my dealership, was if there was an extreme alignment concern that necessitated the camber adjustment. True to the fact that it is the shaft of the bolt that is eccentric. The subframe is not slotted like the X308 cars. There are shims in the upper control arms that are set per market and LHD or RHD. I even argued with the field service engineer about moving those shims around to compensate for a pull/wander.
As far as springs, I would hope (but don't believe) that a spring manufacturer would put some engineering into the springs and appropriate alignment settings if a car is getting their springs and it is lowering the car. As well, I would not take the car to a dealership for the alignment after lowering unless that dealership is known to deal with aftermarket items. Most don't. It would be worth the effort to find an alignment shop that will do a custom alignment on the car and has knowledge in how the angles affect handling. Just my two pennies.

I had my car lowered some 2 years ago using springs supplied by Adamesh in the UK. (One of the OEM rear springs had broken due to corrosion and the others were looking in very poor condition). When I was out in Belgium seeing Avos, he noted that my rear camber looked way off. I hadn't really noticed but when compared with his car, it was really noticeable.

Anyway, I attach a spreadsheet which shows, in theory, what each 0.5mm if adjustment should do to the rear camber settings. I include actuals after shims added. The ratio was provided by Avos and proved to be accurate. Hope this helps anyone looking to bring their rear camber settings back into alignment.

I had to use shallow locknuts (with locktite) on one side as the 9mm adjustment on standard locknuts had them sitting proud of the end of the bolt. The OEM bolts have a 12mm shoulder, and have a 7/16 UNF thread.

Do you have the original jpegs or some other format? Foxit is not displaying the attachments.