Found a great deal on a project 2000 XK8 on EBay - wasn’t and now I have a parts source. THEN I found an even sweeter deal for a 2000 XKR...and now I need the forums help.

It’s a salvage with 40K miles - very clean and was well care for until...

So what do y’all think I should consider for pulling out the back right quarter? See pic’s.

Rt fender Buckeyes and the inner seam separated about 1/4 inch.

In the trunk looking at the seam.

That’s a buckle in the frame about a foot from the rear wall.

That’s the right rear tail light bracket.

The bottom lip of the trunk is a pretty complex bend - might drill out the spot welds and weld a donor piece from Jag 2. Additional, you can see the right side is up maybe a couple of inches.

 

Cut the right rear fender off and then take it to a frame shop to get it pulled before you do anything else.

 

I do agree on a frame shop to get that back end down to the neighborhood it should be in.
Might check to see what they want for the whole job.
If you are going to tackle that dent, better get a Porter Power from HF to push it out, after you learn how to use it, it will move things much faster than you think.
Get it close and use the welding sticks to pull the small seams and dents out.
If you don't weld, best to let someone else get it to primer, I'm taking it you are going to paint it.
Shame, nice looking car, will give you lots of smiles.
Wayne

 

I can understand the appeal of the challenge to do it all yourself but a shop should be able to get it basically straight a lot faster and probably for a lot less money than you'd think. It's then still a lot of work to do the replacement panels but gets you to the interesting part of the job much faster.

Graham

 

Good luck with the project. I wish I had the extra space to find a parts car for my 2000 XK8.

 

Thanks for all the wise sage...looking at trying it myself. I did “try” to find a shop to pull the damage out; no joy. I’m pretty far from a metropolitan center and I guess they recognize I’m not willing to drop HUGE cash for a couple hours worth of work.

So I’ve watched a couple hundred hours of YouTube and I think it’s doable.

I’ve dissected the patient a little more and found a couple more dinks. I’ve just need to figure out the best way to pull it.

Worse case, I waste a bunch of time and a couple of bucks failing. I still have the donor car but it’s not that bad.

 

Good luck and please keep the thread going as you progress.

Member RaceDiagnostics has done a huge amount of body repairs on his convertible but I don't recall any member tackling serious pulling.

Graham

 

Watched a couple more days of YouTube vid’s. Still amassing the tools - chains, hyd power pack, spot weld drill outs, etc. Still waiting on a couple clamps. Gotta get a welder.

This takes a lot of patience!

Drilling out the spots seemed like the better way. The alternative was to grind away with a small belt sander.

There hidden spot welds - seems to be a three parts to this section - not just two pieces of medal put together.

The guy on one video gave great instructions on drilling spot welds. He mention getting several drill bits. Now I know why - these things wear out quick. He punched and drilled before using the cutting tool - good gouge!

 

Still amassing the tools and strategy(ies). Got a donor piece off eBay for cheap; so my donor car is still whole (got an engine for it - next project).

You can see I’ve got the replacement skin separated from that donor piece. Now comes the pull. I need an inch in and an inch down...about. Probably attempt next weekend or tomorrow depending on the weather.

Stay safe!



New skin

 

Just a quick note to say I enjoy this thread.

As an ex-steelwork/painter, it’s good to see you attempt this DIY. Nothing scary in this but it takes time and patience esp. if you’re doing it for the first time.

Keep at it. Are you planning to paint it yourself?

 

Best of luck with your project. I agree that you should remove the entire quarter panel first. Just remember that when you apply pressure, that every action has an equal and opposite reaction! I once used a rented porta a power unit on a big dent on the rear quarter panel. I braced it against the inner wheel well on the opposite side. The dent went out but the wheel well got pushed in! I've read that some people have chained the frame to something solid like a power pole or a very stout tree. Good luck, be safe, and post pictures!

 

Totally agree with Rivguy.

Years ago I had to do a lot bodywork on a rusty 1972 Triumph GT6, but had all the tools borrowed from my construction site.

I needed bracing points so drilled Hilti anchors around the garage walls, to pull off. Be careful of the car, and the bracing point, moving during this kind of operation.

 

Hey David! Yeah, that's plan A.

Have a great week,
Jay

 

Hey Rivguy,

I'm going to try to leave that panel on hoping it gets pull out with the frame. Next weekend will be the "big pull". I did a little one, meaning I just hook onto the bumper mount and put the port-a-power on a chain. I got 1/4 of an inch "in" from the right frame rail. I hadn't measured the "down" but this morning I look at it as I going to work, and it looked like it had some correction. I'll look at it tonight.

Yeah, I get Newton's third law. I watched a dozen YouTubes where the guys magically push without busting something else.

Thanks for the advice and I will watch it,
Jay

 

don't remove anymore bodyparts,only trim to gain access for hammer work. it needs to go to frame shop, and reason for not cutting panels is shop will need something to weld and or grip to when pulling frame back in shape. been there done that.

 

I'll be watching. You are probably right trying to straighten it intact. Best wishes.

 

Thanks for the advice Steven. I tried to get a shop around here to pull it but they all refused. Maybe it’s just a Georgia thing?!

I was going to attempt a pull myself; but after trying to move the rail with the hyd power pack, it became obvious I would be dealing with higher energies than I wanted to.

So I’ve decided to separate the frame into manageable sections - it’s made up of four different pieces (see pic’). Once I get access to the section that has the bends in it, I’ll start banging and pressing it back into shape - I hope.

I’ve burned through four spot weld cutters and have resorted to a 3/8ths drill bit. That works OK until I get more cutters-it’s the center pin I keep breaking.

I bought a welder - not to that part of the fun yet.


Separating the parts

 

Not a bad decision. Good luck !

 

Tried to hold the car in place.

The unibody seam bent.

 

Thought I had a reasonable plan - almost. Got all kinds of straps, a chain, a pulling clip, a hold back clip, hyd cylinder, and a tree. I don’t think I moved the folds in the frame. Did bend the seam under the car though?! Had that hooked to my truck to stabilize the car with a strap and a “come-a-long“. I had a jack stand on the other side of the bends, emergency brake, and a chock behind the front wheel. Acted like it was on ice the way the car was moving.

I’m going to need some serious anchors in my driveway ‘fore I try that again.

So much for easy.