XKR 4.0 or 4.2 range?
#1
XKR 4.0 or 4.2 range?
Hi All
First post on here :-)
Looking to buy an XKR model and hopefully enjoy what these beats have to offer.
I only have around 7000 to spend but ideally want an XKR with the 4.2 litre engine.
I know I am probably trying to do the impossible, but i have seen a few out there with very high mileage and just witihn that price range.
Should i stay away form these and start to look at the 1998 - 2001 range of cars?
The main reason for me loking for a 4.2 is I belive that these dont have the issue with the nikasil engine or the timing chain problems.
is the 4.2 engine better that than the standard 4.0 are there any benefits or with my budget am i best just looking for a low mileage older car.
I was thinkning about the XK8, but I know that it will always be at the back of my mind that i should have got an XKR and this will get to me.
Just after a little constructive thoughts and experiance from you all so I can hopefully make a good choice.
Thaks for reading
First post on here :-)
Looking to buy an XKR model and hopefully enjoy what these beats have to offer.
I only have around 7000 to spend but ideally want an XKR with the 4.2 litre engine.
I know I am probably trying to do the impossible, but i have seen a few out there with very high mileage and just witihn that price range.
Should i stay away form these and start to look at the 1998 - 2001 range of cars?
The main reason for me loking for a 4.2 is I belive that these dont have the issue with the nikasil engine or the timing chain problems.
is the 4.2 engine better that than the standard 4.0 are there any benefits or with my budget am i best just looking for a low mileage older car.
I was thinkning about the XK8, but I know that it will always be at the back of my mind that i should have got an XKR and this will get to me.
Just after a little constructive thoughts and experiance from you all so I can hopefully make a good choice.
Thaks for reading
#3
#4
#5
#6
Ha Ha, Cheers Guys, I forgot the forum was more US based.
Yes my budget is 7000 UK pounds and not dollars.
So is there much difference in the way the 4.0 and the 4.2 handles or is it very minimal.
It is looking more and more like i will have to go gor the 4.0, I cant wait much longer I have to have one :-)
I have already sold my silverware, and currently selling the kids on ebay to get a little more money
jokes a-side, i appreciate the comments and look forward to becoming an active member on this site.
Thanks
Yes my budget is 7000 UK pounds and not dollars.
So is there much difference in the way the 4.0 and the 4.2 handles or is it very minimal.
It is looking more and more like i will have to go gor the 4.0, I cant wait much longer I have to have one :-)
I have already sold my silverware, and currently selling the kids on ebay to get a little more money
jokes a-side, i appreciate the comments and look forward to becoming an active member on this site.
Thanks
#7
So it's looking like a 4.0 ltr XKR if you can find a good one.
Tensioners are going to have to be checked unless there's proof of updated parts fitted but Nikasil fears can be eliminated by looking at the right years.
Nikasil ceased to be an issue with post-2000 engines which have conventional liners. The affected VIN range is 001036 to 042775 but since the problematic sulphur in fuel was eliminated in the UK in January 2000, if an engine hasn't failed yet, it's probably not going to fail now.
Service history and condition is everything. Almost perversely, high mileage, regularly used XK8/XKR's have fewer issues than many pampered, low mileage examples!
Graham
Tensioners are going to have to be checked unless there's proof of updated parts fitted but Nikasil fears can be eliminated by looking at the right years.
Nikasil ceased to be an issue with post-2000 engines which have conventional liners. The affected VIN range is 001036 to 042775 but since the problematic sulphur in fuel was eliminated in the UK in January 2000, if an engine hasn't failed yet, it's probably not going to fail now.
Service history and condition is everything. Almost perversely, high mileage, regularly used XK8/XKR's have fewer issues than many pampered, low mileage examples!
Graham
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#8
I paid $10,600 for my US LHD 2000 XKR Convertible w/ 67k miles. It wasn't flawless, with one ding in the passenger door (PDRed that out, $150) and wheels with a little curb rash, and the tires were nearing replacement (worn evenly, but worn). However, the car despite it's issues, was a good and honest car with a full dealer service history. The seller was nothing other than completely upfront about everything.
Right after I got it, I put $150 into dent removal, $800 into tires, $600 in wheel repair, $400 or so in tensioner parts, $85 for oxygen sensor, and $20 for the top resistor. Add in labor for the tensioners (I diyed it) for maybe $1k and $150 in labor for the oxygen sensor and my total of parts and labor came to: $3185 if you paid everything out or $2035 if DIY. So really, to have a sorted 2000 XKR Convertible with 67k miles, it cost me $12,655, or would've cost someone else $13,805. I have more in for other stuff like spark plugs, air filter, oil filters, fuel filter, etc.
I could've just bought a more expensive car, but I view it as I bought a car and made it right (and I know it's right because I did it), and now I have one with basically brand new wheels and tires, and I know that the timing components have been swapped. Now if I wanted to sell it, I realistically would get $13-14k in my area to a knowledgeable buyer who knows how sorted the car is.
Factor in your UK market, but I'm willing to bet relative costs will be bang on similar. Of my car, I bought it and spent 20% of the buying cost to DIY it up to snuff; or if you didn't DIY, 30% of car cost. So you might be better off, at least on paper based on this example, buying a more expensive car.
Also, keep in mind that you need to have cash in reserve to right the car you buy, and cash for the first year's inevitable repairs.
If I were the OP, I'd wait and save more money. Buy a car worth no more than 10-20% of one year's take home income (if it's not absolutely necessary to finance it, pay cash) and you'll never be nervous. If you can't afford a good XK, buy a good representation of another car that costs less.
Right after I got it, I put $150 into dent removal, $800 into tires, $600 in wheel repair, $400 or so in tensioner parts, $85 for oxygen sensor, and $20 for the top resistor. Add in labor for the tensioners (I diyed it) for maybe $1k and $150 in labor for the oxygen sensor and my total of parts and labor came to: $3185 if you paid everything out or $2035 if DIY. So really, to have a sorted 2000 XKR Convertible with 67k miles, it cost me $12,655, or would've cost someone else $13,805. I have more in for other stuff like spark plugs, air filter, oil filters, fuel filter, etc.
I could've just bought a more expensive car, but I view it as I bought a car and made it right (and I know it's right because I did it), and now I have one with basically brand new wheels and tires, and I know that the timing components have been swapped. Now if I wanted to sell it, I realistically would get $13-14k in my area to a knowledgeable buyer who knows how sorted the car is.
Factor in your UK market, but I'm willing to bet relative costs will be bang on similar. Of my car, I bought it and spent 20% of the buying cost to DIY it up to snuff; or if you didn't DIY, 30% of car cost. So you might be better off, at least on paper based on this example, buying a more expensive car.
Also, keep in mind that you need to have cash in reserve to right the car you buy, and cash for the first year's inevitable repairs.
If I were the OP, I'd wait and save more money. Buy a car worth no more than 10-20% of one year's take home income (if it's not absolutely necessary to finance it, pay cash) and you'll never be nervous. If you can't afford a good XK, buy a good representation of another car that costs less.
#9
Good advice from 80sRule.
You'll want to enjoy these superb cars not spend forever at the breaker's yard for yet another bit that's fallen off.
As Graham pointed out UK prices are significantly higher than US (more or less £1 = $1 as far as I can see).
Conversely (although this doesn't affect you) French prices are much higher than UK so I can sell at a profit.
You'll want to enjoy these superb cars not spend forever at the breaker's yard for yet another bit that's fallen off.
As Graham pointed out UK prices are significantly higher than US (more or less £1 = $1 as far as I can see).
Conversely (although this doesn't affect you) French prices are much higher than UK so I can sell at a profit.
#10
I'm just hoping this will still be the case when I come to sell my XKR on over here. Crazy prices on used cars! I have tentatively put my UK Suzuki 4x4 up for sale and have already been offered twice what I paid for it a year ago.
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