XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

XKR- change the supercharger oil or not?

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Old Sep 24, 2017 | 11:56 PM
  #21  
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I had mine changed preventative a few years ago around 120k. No issues. I recall something about aircraft grade Shell oil (?)...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2017 | 10:42 AM
  #22  
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Update. I drove the car yesterday. The clicking and chirping I used to have on startup are gone. I wonder if it wasn't the belt and maybe just the fluid in the supercharger was too low or worn out, or both. It was eerily quiet.

I'm prepping the car for storage for the winter, so not sure how many more times I'll be able to run it this fall.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #23  
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Good to hear.

I too was surprised by how much difference just changing the oil made in the "sound" of the SC at idle.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2017 | 09:03 PM
  #24  
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Smile Change the oil every 20,000 miles!

Gentlemen,

As I said earlier, change your Supercharger's oil with GM Supercharger oil! It cost about $16.00 a bottle and you need (2) bottles....The GM Supercharger is the same old Supercharger that's on the 2003 up XKR's.....I don't recall ever having any Supercharger whine even today with 90,000 miles on it.......Just remember every 20,000 miles........Hey it's Oil and Oil is to lubricate!!!!

Billy Clyde in Houston
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 03:50 PM
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Guys

This SC oil on the XKR, nobody has said about removing and refitting the drain plug which is a grub plug type and it looks pretty tight to get it fitted back without cross threading?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 09:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ericmcn
Guys

This SC oil on the XKR, nobody has said about removing and refitting the drain plug which is a grub plug type and it looks pretty tight to get it fitted back without cross threading?
not that difficult. Be sure to put some paper towels
or shop towels under the area so to catch the plug when you drop it, or when you fill it too full and the fluid runs out.

getting the fluid out is tricky, but definitely should be done to prolong the S/C lifespan. I use a 20 ml plastic syringe with a spray can red tube stuck into the syringe end . Anything larger than that I can’t get down into the S/C snout opening to the bottom of the cavity . Maybe there’s a good trick I haven’t seen,
I hope so.

It takes several syringe fulls to get 7 + ounces out of it.

it’s only a 30 minute job. The oil that’s comes out will likely be dark. The oil going in will be clear. That should tell you something about the need to do it every 10,000 miles more or less.

Z
 

Last edited by zray; Aug 5, 2025 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 02:39 AM
  #27  
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Interesting thanks, I know about jabbing a cloth down there, I used that trick for the fuel pressure sensor which I managed to break the nipple of one of the vac lines, the bolts were tiny and I found out not magnetic..

Is that drain plug magnetic I wonder.... maybe I will attack this weekend, my Jag has 55k miles ish
 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 02:14 PM
  #28  
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I recently did. Bought the GM Oil that came with a syringe at https://www.ebay.com/itm/324172072236
The hose that came with the syringe was too thick. I found a smaller diameter vacuum hose. When you push the hose in it stops right away. Need to push and rotate until it goes in a few inches. Old and new fluid pics below.

Old

New

 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 07:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ericmcn


“…..Is that drain plug magnetic I wonder.... maybe I will attack this weekend, my Jag has 55k miles ish
I have a 2002 XKR, the plug is magnetic. IDK if the plug is the original plug or not.

when reinstalling the plug, remember it’s a steel plug going into an aluminum housing. It only needs to be snug plug a very little. The expansion rate of the aluminum ensures that it won’t back out easily.

it does help to do this operation on a cold engine.

A bungee cord is useful to put slight pressure on a hose or two to get them out of the way.

Z
 

Last edited by zray; Aug 6, 2025 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2025 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolapacker
I recently did. Bought the GM Oil that came with a syringe at https://www.ebay.com/itm/324172072236
The hose that came with the syringe was too thick. I found a smaller diameter vacuum hose. When you push the hose in it stops right away. Need to push and rotate until it goes in a few inches. Old and new fluid pics below…..”
1) Do you recall the diameter of the hose you used? I’d like to find a better solution that the spray can red nozzle that I’m currently using.

2) do you known how long the supercharger oil had been in there ?

Mine looked black the first time I changed it @ car mileage 130,600. As far as I could tell from the car’s extensive maintenance records, it had never been changed before then, and I don’t doubt it.

The smell was not as bad as old rear end lube, but close.

Z
 

Last edited by zray; Aug 8, 2025 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2025 | 01:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by zray
1) ...

The smell was not as bad as old rear end lube, but close.

Z

 
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Old Aug 9, 2025 | 04:48 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by zray
1) Do you recall the diameter of the hose you used? I’d like to find a better solution that the spray can red nozzle that I’m currently using.

2) do you known how long the supercharger oil had been in there ?

Mine looked black the first time I changed it @ car mileage 130,600. As far as I could tell from the car’s extensive maintenance records, it had never been changed before then, and I don’t doubt it.

The smell was not as bad as old rear end lube, but close.

Z
5/32” hard plastic not rubber, lets you twist when pushing.

Bought with 189k miles. No idea if ever changed.


 
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Old Sep 18, 2025 | 10:55 PM
  #33  
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Another good reason to change your supercharger oil is that the oil gets used up. When I did mine awhile back only about 2/3 of the oil capacity was still there.
 
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