I have a 2002 XKR in need of strut replacement, unfortunately I have the electronic suspension package which costs about $400 per corner to replace. I read that you can affix non-electronic Bilsteins for about $103 a piece. There is an accompanying fault that can be silenced by removing a fuse located in the trunk. Does this cause any collateral damage such as throttle response or steering feel? Has anyone made the swap?

 

I believe installing non CATS shocks and either doing a bypass wire or pulling the ECU (which is required to quiet the Alarm Light) simply results in the car being in the stiffest mode full time.

Many have done it and seem fine with it. YMMV.

Best!
dsd

 

If you fit standard shocks, all you need do is unplug the CATS module in the boot. No adverse effects, the system is completely isolated.

 

Also considering some slightly lower springs - the car sits way too high

 

I went for the adamesh springs, partly because they were the smallest drop of the options out there.

The original fronts were starting to sag and the "lowering" springs actually brought the front up a bit. The rear is just right when lowered 1 inch.

 

Appreciate the suggestion. Was there a US distributer or you bought them from the UK? Did they require a spring compressor to install?

 

Bought them from the UK, shipping wasn't too bad.

Yes you do need a spring compressor to disassemble the old shock and reassemble the new. If you have it all apart, I would recommend replacing the spring perch, bump stop and boot. The parts are not that expensive but a PITA to get to since it all had to come apart.

Probably should replace the upper shock mount too, unless you know that it has been recently done and is in good shape.

 

Charlie can help you with the specifics of his experience, but keep in mind that this car has a basic suspension that can only be aligned properly when the ride height is close to stock. With the short-long arm design, lowering the car with a shorter spring will bring the top of the wheel inboard more than the bottom part, resulting in negative camber. I suppose it is all a matter of numbers: how short is the new spring, resulting in how much camber. Also depends on how much you are willing to put up with uneven tire wear (remember different tires front and back means no tire rotation to even this out), or how much you are willing to work to rectify this (eccentric bolts, etc.).

Best of luck, keep us posted.