XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

XKRacer, please tell us about your nuts.

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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Wink XKRacer, please tell us about your nuts.

(almost PM'd you on this, Tony, but your answer could help many of us...so a post it is...)

I think I speak for many of us when I say that I'm just not happy with my nuts. My lug nuts. I'm sick of the rattle, and the thin metal of the covers gets dinged up over the years.

Many members have conducted fruitless searches for alternatives, with no luck. We demand a better option. So this evening, I find myself asking the question, "What would Tony do?"

A man who powdercoats superchargers and polishes thermostat towers has surely found a great solution to the lug nut problem.

So please, XKRacer, show us what you've got...and don't be shy!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Yes, because the problem with our nuts is not being too big...it's being too small.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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I know I just made my own the last time this topic came up. Used 303 series SS and they look alot better than the originals. Unfortunately all the pics I have look like crap. Not the nuts, the pictures. Here's a couple to show you what I mean. Matt's got the only other set I made, I even monogrammed them for him. We were going to try and make them for other members as an alternative but cost was prohibative. Cheaper than new jaguar lugs but still expensive.
 
Attached Thumbnails XKRacer, please tell us about your nuts.-lugs.jpg   XKRacer, please tell us about your nuts.-lugs-wheels.jpg  
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DpezXK8
We were going to try and make them for other members as an alternative but cost was prohibative. Cheaper than new jaguar lugs but still expensive.

Dpez,

I assume those are one-piece lugs you made, yes? They look quite good. Knowing nothing about metallurgy myself, perhaps you could tell us a little about the material and specs.

Would you be interested in making more sets, for members who wanted to pay the price? And if you were, what would that price be?


...still waiting on your thoughts, Sir Tony!

 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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I can get the original type for £60 a set (20) or you can have as the picture below, this type which are solid and don't have a stainless cap, these are £40 a set but the plating is not the best, they have just a nickle flash and really could do with a good chrome plate.

In the past I have made my own but like what has been said they work out extrmely expensive compared...... Gives you something to think about



Just as a side note, I am unsure if you guys in the US have the locking wheel nut with the cap, these are rubbish and I don't bother with them, if somebody wants to steal your wheels they will have the gear to remove such things, the type you can buy at any auto store for $20
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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Tony,

Which are you using on your best customer cars? Wouldn't the original type start rattling sooner or later?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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I use the original type, just for the fact they are stainless.

I appreciate not everybody can do this but if I get a particularly rattly cap I put it in the lathe chuck and give it a squeeze, then again on the next set of flats.

Works a treat
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by XKRacer
I use the original type, just for the fact they are stainless.

I appreciate not everybody can do this but if I get a particularly rattly cap I put it in the lathe chuck and give it a squeeze, then again on the next set of flats.

Works a treat
When you reinstall and tighten them doesn't it "undo" the crimping/squeeze and let them rattle again?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by The Coupe

I assume those are one-piece lugs you made, yes? They look quite good. Knowing nothing about metallurgy myself, perhaps you could tell us a little about the material and specs.

Would you be interested in making more sets, for members who wanted to pay the price? And if you were, what would that price be?
Yes they are 1 piece construction and thank you. Made from 303 series SS which is an easy to machine stainless use for machine screw products. Harder than standard 1018 CRS steel but the steel has a better yield range. I also swedged a washer on so you wouldn't loose them at the tire shop.

Material specs for 303ss are:
Hardness 160-262 Brinell Scale
Yield strength is 35,000-50,000 PSI

Material specs for 1018 CRS are:
Hardness 126-170 Brinell Scale
Yield 45,000-55,000 PSI

I'm sure debates could go on forever about SS Vs Steel but I've had mine on the car for over a year and they still look as good as when I put them on and all the wheels are still there. I polished the whole lug but I polish the top until it looks like chrome cause that's the only part you really see. Besides many lugs are cast and not machined from a solid billet so I don't even know the strength of them compared to Solid SS.

When I was orignially looking at making these they came in at $240.00 a set or $12.00 each which was half of what a new lug from jaguar costs, I just checked and they're $25.34 each from jaguarparts.com.

Most people were looking for a $100.00 range but my material costs were $160.00 a set. I tacked on $4.00 a nut for labor which was a joke, because it costs me more than that to just polish them. I'm sure material costs are even higher now so not really looking at making them again, unless you have really deep pockets. Sorry Coupe, just can't compete with the chinese market. I don't even know what quality of material they use, I hope it's metal.

I think XKRacer has a best setup for price, 60 pounds is like $120.00, right? and if you don't mind polishing , you could probably make them look pretty good.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by XKRacer
Just as a side note, I am unsure if you guys in the US have the locking wheel nut with the cap, these are rubbish and I don't bother with them, if somebody wants to steal your wheels they will have the gear to remove such things, the type you can buy at any auto store for $20
So what do you use? Just 5 normal nuts without a locking nut at all? Surely there must be a better system available..? What do you think of McGard?

 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by oldjaglover
When you reinstall and tighten them doesn't it "undo" the crimping/squeeze and let them rattle again?
Over a period of time yes, but for the really bad ones it does last a bit longer.


The main thing that causes this problem are impact air guns used by most wheel/tyre shops, I never use one unless I am not caring about the nuts if the are being replaced, otherwise it is always done by hand with a breaker bar and torque wrench

Originally Posted by DpezXK8
I think XKRacer has a best setup for price, 60 pounds is like $120.00, right? and if you don't mind polishing , you could probably make them look pretty good.

As a rule of thumb as I have used as a guide is half the amonut then add it, so £60 would be $90

Originally Posted by Frog
So what do you use? Just 5 normal nuts without a locking nut at all? Surely there must be a better system available..? What do you think of McGard?

The only time I use locking nuts is if the customers insurance stipulates it, and unfortunately most go for the standard locking nuts because they match, I have not come across anything yet that gives the quality along with the apperance of the OE....

But I do rate the McGuard Ultra, they are a good wheel nut with many combinations and defeat most removal tools, just don't lose that key
 

Last edited by XKRacer; Jan 13, 2012 at 02:06 AM.
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