ZF6HP26 connector sleeve
#1
ZF6HP26 connector sleeve
Looking for help or suggestions as to an ongoing problem with the connector getting shorted out with hydraulic fluid. I did a fluid change as per the directions found on this forum. I replaced all parts to include the connector sleve. I did my best to get the fluid level correct and this is where I'm looking for advice. I have been getting gear fault codes with restricted performance. I have found the problem to be the connector when I removed it there is hydraulic fluid in it causing a short in the wires thus throwing the codes. Once I clean the fluid off the connectors and reassemble it works just fine for about 2 weeks and then happens again. Would this be caused by to much fluid or the sleve not sealing correctly. I can't remember how the sleve sealed around the pins for the connector when I replaced it. Any input would be appreciated. Cleaned the connector last night and all codes cleared and drove just fine.
Last edited by GGG; 02-04-2017 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Edit typo in thread title
#2
The procedure is documented here: 6_speed_sleeve_replacement.pdf
If you look at the part, it looks like there are o-ring seals on the outside:
sealing-sleeve-3-10.html
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
EDIT: There are even better pictures here: thectsc_mechatronic_replacement.pdf
I have not done the procedure myself, so I cannot offer any personal tips.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
If you look at the part, it looks like there are o-ring seals on the outside:
sealing-sleeve-3-10.html
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
EDIT: There are even better pictures here: thectsc_mechatronic_replacement.pdf
I have not done the procedure myself, so I cannot offer any personal tips.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Last edited by fmertz; 01-30-2017 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Added another link
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User 070620 (02-06-2017)
#3
The procedure is documented here: 6_speed_sleeve_replacement.pdf
If you look at the part, it looks like there are o-ring seals on the outside:
sealing-sleeve-3-10.html
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
I have not done the procedure myself, so I cannot offer any personal tips.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
If you look at the part, it looks like there are o-ring seals on the outside:
sealing-sleeve-3-10.html
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
I have not done the procedure myself, so I cannot offer any personal tips.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#4
#5
It looks like the seal near the top of this picture would be responsible for sealing off the fluid from the connector:
It looks like it fits this way:
Also, double check the harness side for pushed-in pin:
Unfortunately, the only way to be sure is to remove the sleeve, which requires unlocking it. As documented, the lock is only reachable with the pan off, which requires re-doing the re-fill procedure. Sigh.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Keep us updated.
It looks like it fits this way:
Also, double check the harness side for pushed-in pin:
Unfortunately, the only way to be sure is to remove the sleeve, which requires unlocking it. As documented, the lock is only reachable with the pan off, which requires re-doing the re-fill procedure. Sigh.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Keep us updated.
#6
#7
When I did this replacement, I had a really hard time getting the connector lock fully back in the UP position. In fact, two of us had a hard time, working together. The failure to set the safety lock is not getting the connector sleeve fully engaged. Despite doing all the clean / lube to the connector sleeve, I still couldn't get the thing fully home, twisted fully in, and locked down er.. UP.
There are two sheet metal lock tabs that have to be pushed aside by the sleeve (in the mechatronic unit connector turret - very hard to see in operation) that would not move far enough to work. I could not see any differences with the new sleeve that would account for this, when comparing old and new but, In the end, I took the O rings off the new sleeve and transferred them to the old, and re-used it. No problem. Clearly, if that sleeve isn't fully engaged and fully locked, or if the O rings got injured in some way, then oil will get into the connector. I don't really understand, given that the oil is likely non-conductive at such low voltages, why having oil in there causes a fault. Before biting hard on John Waynes bullet, you might want to check that all connector hardware inside the socket / plug: are the males and females undamaged and level with their companions? Also, I wasn't impressed by Jag's design on that plug, in that there didn't seem to be an obvious strain relief, and I remember being nervous about man-handling the thing more than I could help.
Failing that, or any last minute reprieves, there is no solution other than to repeat the procedure. You have my sincere commiserations in that regard.
There are two sheet metal lock tabs that have to be pushed aside by the sleeve (in the mechatronic unit connector turret - very hard to see in operation) that would not move far enough to work. I could not see any differences with the new sleeve that would account for this, when comparing old and new but, In the end, I took the O rings off the new sleeve and transferred them to the old, and re-used it. No problem. Clearly, if that sleeve isn't fully engaged and fully locked, or if the O rings got injured in some way, then oil will get into the connector. I don't really understand, given that the oil is likely non-conductive at such low voltages, why having oil in there causes a fault. Before biting hard on John Waynes bullet, you might want to check that all connector hardware inside the socket / plug: are the males and females undamaged and level with their companions? Also, I wasn't impressed by Jag's design on that plug, in that there didn't seem to be an obvious strain relief, and I remember being nervous about man-handling the thing more than I could help.
Failing that, or any last minute reprieves, there is no solution other than to repeat the procedure. You have my sincere commiserations in that regard.
Last edited by Atlastajag1; 02-01-2017 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Added text for clarity; added additional thoughts
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#8
#9
My advice is that if you plan to keep driving the car, address that sleeve leak as soon as you can. You don't want to run the risk of losing so much ATF that your ZF cooks itself. ZF tech support told me a few years ago that once the unit loses two to three litres of ATF, significant damage is the likely result....
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