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Looking for help or suggestions as to an ongoing problem with the connector getting shorted out with hydraulic fluid. I did a fluid change as per the directions found on this forum. I replaced all parts to include the connector sleve. I did my best to get the fluid level correct and this is where I'm looking for advice. I have been getting gear fault codes with restricted performance. I have found the problem to be the connector when I removed it there is hydraulic fluid in it causing a short in the wires thus throwing the codes. Once I clean the fluid off the connectors and reassemble it works just fine for about 2 weeks and then happens again. Would this be caused by to much fluid or the sleve not sealing correctly. I can't remember how the sleve sealed around the pins for the connector when I replaced it. Any input would be appreciated. Cleaned the connector last night and all codes cleared and drove just fine.
Last edited by GGG; Feb 4, 2017 at 03:08 AM.
Reason: Edit typo in thread title
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
The replacement procedure seem to have a number of specific steps, including a locking/unlocking mechanism (which unfortunately requires the plastic pan to be removed), a set distance to the housing, and a prohibition against twisting.
I have not done the procedure myself, so I cannot offer any personal tips.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Absolutely correct. You have to be very careful on replacing with absolute accuracy on the set distance from housing measurement to ensure proper seating. If done correctly quite easy with maybe some slight rubber mallet encouragement IF PROPERLY LINED UP.
Thanks for the replies and will get it on a lift and try to see if it's in all the way. I'm pretty sure it was when I did it but wasn't sure how it sealed and how it would get transmission fluid in it. When it's clean all is fine. A little fluid causes alot of problems.
It looks like the seal near the top of this picture would be responsible for sealing off the fluid from the connector:
It looks like it fits this way:
Also, double check the harness side for pushed-in pin:
Unfortunately, the only way to be sure is to remove the sleeve, which requires unlocking it. As documented, the lock is only reachable with the pan off, which requires re-doing the re-fill procedure. Sigh.
What's confusing is both sets of orings seal on the outside of the connector and not sure if that is what also is going to keep the fluid out of the inside. Nothing is leaking externally it just ends up in the plug itself.
When I did this replacement, I had a really hard time getting the connector lock fully back in the UP position. In fact, two of us had a hard time, working together. The failure to set the safety lock is not getting the connector sleeve fully engaged. Despite doing all the clean / lube to the connector sleeve, I still couldn't get the thing fully home, twisted fully in, and locked down er.. UP.
There are two sheet metal lock tabs that have to be pushed aside by the sleeve (in the mechatronic unit connector turret - very hard to see in operation) that would not move far enough to work. I could not see any differences with the new sleeve that would account for this, when comparing old and new but, In the end, I took the O rings off the new sleeve and transferred them to the old, and re-used it. No problem. Clearly, if that sleeve isn't fully engaged and fully locked, or if the O rings got injured in some way, then oil will get into the connector. I don't really understand, given that the oil is likely non-conductive at such low voltages, why having oil in there causes a fault. Before biting hard on John Waynes bullet, you might want to check that all connector hardware inside the socket / plug: are the males and females undamaged and level with their companions? Also, I wasn't impressed by Jag's design on that plug, in that there didn't seem to be an obvious strain relief, and I remember being nervous about man-handling the thing more than I could help.
Failing that, or any last minute reprieves, there is no solution other than to repeat the procedure. You have my sincere commiserations in that regard.
Last edited by Atlastajag1; Feb 1, 2017 at 11:21 AM.
Reason: Added text for clarity; added additional thoughts
Yeah I figured I would be doing this again. Not sure where I want to tackle it as in Florida where it is now I'm limited where I can work on it. Or spring time drive back north and do it in my garage where I have all my tools. Either way it has to be done.
My advice is that if you plan to keep driving the car, address that sleeve leak as soon as you can. You don't want to run the risk of losing so much ATF that your ZF cooks itself. ZF tech support told me a few years ago that once the unit loses two to three litres of ATF, significant damage is the likely result....
Took the car to a recommended Local Jag guy and sure enough the connector sleeve was not in all the way. Serviced it up and so far so good. Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction.