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Addicted2boost
December 17, 2016
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0 2021/03/02 17:06:01 Addicted2b
On the far left side is a cam cover VVT. That’s an AJ27. The AJ26 (non supercharged) has a VVT on the upper timing cover on bank 1 & bank 2. 

On the lower right is a 4 wire ignition coil from an AJ27 engine. The AJ26 has a 2 wire ignition coil.
On the far left side is a cam cover VVT. That’s an AJ27. The AJ26 (non supercharged) has a VVT on the upper timing cover on bank 1 & bank 2. On the lower right is a 4 wire ignition coil from an AJ27 engine. The AJ26 has a 2 wire ignition coil.
0 2021/03/13 18:41:34 Addicted2b
This style MAF sensor is from an AJ27 engine. It just has 2 screws to remove and clean like Jhartz recommended.
This style MAF sensor is from an AJ27 engine. It just has 2 screws to remove and clean like Jhartz recommended.
0 2021/03/13 18:49:16 Addicted2b
0 2021/03/14 18:39:07 Addicted2b
Inside the ⭕️, these are the 2 that you need to clean out real good. It’s sorta hard to tell if they’re clean or dirty sometimes so you’ll need to look at them prior to cleaning and of course afterwards and see if they appear different. Don’t be afraid to blow it out real good because they’re pretty robust.
Inside the ⭕️, these are the 2 that you need to clean out real good. It’s sorta hard to tell if they’re clean or dirty sometimes so you’ll need to look at them prior to cleaning and of course afterwards and see if they appear different. Don’t be afraid to blow it out real good because they’re pretty robust.
0 2021/03/14 18:39:21 Addicted2b
0 2021/03/21 16:37:44 Addicted2b
0 2021/03/21 16:38:39 Addicted2b
0 2021/03/21 16:39:32 Addicted2b
Remove this hose clamp and pull the hose off. Pull this hose up and out of the way. You’ll have some coolant spill out then but you’ll have a lot more room.
Remove this hose clamp and pull the hose off. Pull this hose up and out of the way. You’ll have some coolant spill out then but you’ll have a lot more room.
0 2021/03/21 16:48:56 Addicted2b
I’d strongly recommend replacing the full load breather tube vs repairing it. Repairing those is ok until the new one gets delivered to your home. Oil vapor passes through that tube and will swell up that hose and leak right on by the electrical tape.
I’d strongly recommend replacing the full load breather tube vs repairing it. Repairing those is ok until the new one gets delivered to your home. Oil vapor passes through that tube and will swell up that hose and leak right on by the electrical tape.
0 2021/04/01 02:54:46 Addicted2b
Are you talking about a vacuum leak from this canister?
Are you talking about a vacuum leak from this canister?
0 2021/04/01 16:57:37 Addicted2b
Or a leak from these valves?

Or the vacuum reservoir under the air cleaner?
Or a leak from these valves? Or the vacuum reservoir under the air cleaner?
0 2021/04/01 16:58:10 Addicted2b
The last post you made about the CC, were you talking about these yellow caps on top of the valves that are loose? If so, those loose fitting caps are there to prevent dust/dirt from entering the inside of those valves. Those valves are there to bleed off and hold vacuum that’s being applied to the vacuum canister on the TB.
The last post you made about the CC, were you talking about these yellow caps on top of the valves that are loose? If so, those loose fitting caps are there to prevent dust/dirt from entering the inside of those valves. Those valves are there to bleed off and hold vacuum that’s being applied to the vacuum canister on the TB.
0 2021/04/01 16:58:45 Addicted2b
0 2021/04/02 11:07:48 Addicted2b
I’m not sure if they have this available aftermarket. If you are having a hard time getting this seal, I’d reuse it by putting thread sealer (Teflon tape) on the Allen bolt threads and a small bead of silicone on the contact surface where the seal meets the block.
I’m not sure if they have this available aftermarket. If you are having a hard time getting this seal, I’d reuse it by putting thread sealer (Teflon tape) on the Allen bolt threads and a small bead of silicone on the contact surface where the seal meets the block.
0 2021/04/07 03:41:47 Addicted2b
I highly recommend using Corteco rear main seal because it comes with an install tool already mounted inside the new seal. It makes the job a lot easier. The only thing is I use a lubricant on the install tool so the lip of the new seal doesn’t roll under itself while pushing the seal towards the engine.
I highly recommend using Corteco rear main seal because it comes with an install tool already mounted inside the new seal. It makes the job a lot easier. The only thing is I use a lubricant on the install tool so the lip of the new seal doesn’t roll under itself while pushing the seal towards the engine.
0 2021/04/07 03:41:53 Addicted2b
This common to fail bulkhead connector that’s on the right front deserves to be checked out for looseness, charring & overall broken contact. That might explain why you have some power but no crank.
This common to fail bulkhead connector that’s on the right front deserves to be checked out for looseness, charring & overall broken contact. That might explain why you have some power but no crank.
0 2021/04/10 10:17:46 Addicted2b
0 2021/05/05 18:15:58 Addicted2b
This thread topic reminded me that I need to install this heavy duty plate between the door check and the door in my 03’ SV8. I’ve only had this for about 7 years and it was supposed to go in my wife’s 00’ XJ8. I think I ordered it from Coventry West. I installed one in my 98’ XJR years ago and is still flawless today.
This thread topic reminded me that I need to install this heavy duty plate between the door check and the door in my 03’ SV8. I’ve only had this for about 7 years and it was supposed to go in my wife’s 00’ XJ8. I think I ordered it from Coventry West. I installed one in my 98’ XJR years ago and is still flawless today.
0 2021/05/05 18:51:45 Addicted2b
0 2021/05/05 18:52:27 Addicted2b
0 2021/05/23 15:42:13 Addicted2b
0 2021/06/23 07:53:42 Addicted2b
This is from a 3.0 V6 but since yours is an 8, this is all we got here. The photo shows 3 (circled) bolt holes but yours will have 4 on each side. Get those 8 bolts out.
This is from a 3.0 V6 but since yours is an 8, this is all we got here. The photo shows 3 (circled) bolt holes but yours will have 4 on each side. Get those 8 bolts out.
0 2021/07/01 10:04:51 Addicted2b
This is the back of the blower you’ll want to keep an eye on. The left has a vacuum port as well as an electrical plug to disconnect. The right you may have a hose bolted on there (the F types are anyways) or maybe just a delete plate.
This is the back of the blower you’ll want to keep an eye on. The left has a vacuum port as well as an electrical plug to disconnect. The right you may have a hose bolted on there (the F types are anyways) or maybe just a delete plate.
0 2021/07/01 10:06:58 Addicted2b
This is what you’re after. 2 dowels that are stuck in the blower and the block.
This is what you’re after. 2 dowels that are stuck in the blower and the block.
0 2021/07/01 10:09:24 Addicted2b
Without a dowel.
Without a dowel.
0 2021/07/01 10:09:31 Addicted2b
Has a broken dowel that I didn’t break.
Has a broken dowel that I didn’t break.
0 2021/07/01 10:09:38 Addicted2b
There’s 2 black clips that will likely break off when you lift the blower. They hold a coolant hose going to the rear of cylinder head, plastic crossover pipe.
There’s 2 black clips that will likely break off when you lift the blower. They hold a coolant hose going to the rear of cylinder head, plastic crossover pipe.
0 2021/07/01 10:11:32 Addicted2b
The long slightly angled prybar will be your savior. This happens to be a 3’ craftsman prybar. Replace that rear plastic crossover pipe when you get to reassembling.
The long slightly angled prybar will be your savior. This happens to be a 3’ craftsman prybar. Replace that rear plastic crossover pipe when you get to reassembling.
0 2021/07/01 10:11:39 Addicted2b
Underneath this foam insulation are 2 breathers that are for the PCV system. They are a rubber diaphragm and do go bad. When they go bad it’s an unmetered air leak that makes the engine run poorly. I’ve replaced several of them. I know this is insignificant until you get to reassembly but I forget a lot and wanted to tell you now rather than never.
Underneath this foam insulation are 2 breathers that are for the PCV system. They are a rubber diaphragm and do go bad. When they go bad it’s an unmetered air leak that makes the engine run poorly. I’ve replaced several of them. I know this is insignificant until you get to reassembly but I forget a lot and wanted to tell you now rather than never.
0 2021/07/01 17:11:39 Addicted2b
This is what I use in my daughters 98’ XJR and my 03’ SV8 and I haven’t had any issues. I know other people will chime in with their opinions.
This is what I use in my daughters 98’ XJR and my 03’ SV8 and I haven’t had any issues. I know other people will chime in with their opinions.
0 2021/07/29 09:57:29 Addicted2b
0 2021/07/31 12:02:38 Addicted2b
On a side note, look what I got today from the UK. Total bolt in job. I’ll post pix this weekend when it goes in.
On a side note, look what I got today from the UK. Total bolt in job. I’ll post pix this weekend when it goes in.
0 2021/08/10 19:26:27 Addicted2b
0 2021/08/14 18:02:26 Addicted2b
Got around to installing my intercooler radiator today.
Got around to installing my intercooler radiator today.
0 2021/08/14 18:03:12 Addicted2b
0 2021/08/22 05:13:49 Addicted2b
Anyways, what I would do is remove the lower steering column cover. If it’s blowing that hard, you should be able to pinpoint where the  air is blowing from more accurately while driving.
Anyways, what I would do is remove the lower steering column cover. If it’s blowing that hard, you should be able to pinpoint where the air is blowing from more accurately while driving.
0 2021/08/22 05:14:49 Addicted2b
0 2021/08/22 13:00:56 Addicted2b
We have had at least two, if not three X150’s towed to the shop in the past 3 or so years  because of this power stud (primarily on the underside of the car) being corroded. They also had the same issue as you did, good battery voltage but still dead. I highly recommend cleaning and tightening the nuts and cables on the top and bottom side of this power stud.
We have had at least two, if not three X150’s towed to the shop in the past 3 or so years because of this power stud (primarily on the underside of the car) being corroded. They also had the same issue as you did, good battery voltage but still dead. I highly recommend cleaning and tightening the nuts and cables on the top and bottom side of this power stud.
0 2021/09/11 12:02:31 Addicted2b
Yeah, I replaced mine with a painted and wire mesh grill. It’s way better than the bland original one. Looks good with the powerhouse intercooler radiator.
Yeah, I replaced mine with a painted and wire mesh grill. It’s way better than the bland original one. Looks good with the powerhouse intercooler radiator.
0 2021/09/12 15:26:43 Addicted2b
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