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13 The front, while quite a bit narrower than the rear is still substantially widened over the "stock" body. we added just under 7 inches to the width up front!
13 The front, while quite a bit narrower than the rear is still substantially widened over the "stock" body. we added just under 7 inches to the width up front!
0 2011/07/08 17:53:42
14 We also had to reinforce the fenders from the underside with fiberglass tape. What a pleasure it is to lay up fiberglass and resin upside down. We only got the drivers side front fender done during this very long 4 day weekend (12 to 14 hours per day)
14 We also had to reinforce the fenders from the underside with fiberglass tape. What a pleasure it is to lay up fiberglass and resin upside down. We only got the drivers side front fender done during this very long 4 day weekend (12 to 14 hours per day)
0 2011/07/08 17:53:42
15 So, this is what we accomplished in just 4 days. we even started the process of shaping the front fenders and blending them into the body. Unfortunately, i had to pack my bags, put the car away in his garage and fly back east to get back to the office. the next trip would prove to be both quite interesting and very challenging.
15 So, this is what we accomplished in just 4 days. we even started the process of shaping the front fenders and blending them into the body. Unfortunately, i had to pack my bags, put the car away in his garage and fly back east to get back to the office. the next trip would prove to be both quite interesting and very challenging.
0 2011/07/08 17:53:42
5 1 Making progress - I actually put the wiring harness in the chassis fairly early on to make it easier to pull all of the wires. In this picture you see a steel non-collapsible steering column. I was not too thrilled at the prospect of being skewered by my own steering column so i replaced it with a NASCA collapsible column. Of course, it didn't fit and that resulted in a whole new project...see later in this album.
5 1 Making progress - I actually put the wiring harness in the chassis fairly early on to make it easier to pull all of the wires. In this picture you see a steel non-collapsible steering column. I was not too thrilled at the prospect of being skewered by my own steering column so i replaced it with a NASCA collapsible column. Of course, it didn't fit and that resulted in a whole new project...see later in this album.
0 2011/06/18 07:38:11
5 2 Here i have fitted the trunk, trunk hinges, and the latch. Boy was it difficult to get the carbon fiber panels to line up with any precision at all.
5 2 Here i have fitted the trunk, trunk hinges, and the latch. Boy was it difficult to get the carbon fiber panels to line up with any precision at all.
0 2011/06/18 07:38:11
5 3 The pedals are installed for the first time. a bit tight and difficult to work in but, they fit. adjusting them is a pleasure (not). to provide better access, i cut the top of the foot well off and made an access panel so you could get to the pedals from above (see the next photo)
5 3 The pedals are installed for the first time. a bit tight and difficult to work in but, they fit. adjusting them is a pleasure (not). to provide better access, i cut the top of the foot well off and made an access panel so you could get to the pedals from above (see the next photo)
0 2011/06/18 07:38:11
5 4 Here are the master cylinders from the top. The cylinder at the bottom of the photo is the clutch, the center one actuates the rear brakes and the top is for the front brakes. I must have put these pedals in and out of the chassis at least a dozen times over the past 4 years!
5 4 Here are the master cylinders from the top. The cylinder at the bottom of the photo is the clutch, the center one actuates the rear brakes and the top is for the front brakes. I must have put these pedals in and out of the chassis at least a dozen times over the past 4 years!
0 2011/06/18 07:32:06
5 5 To make a clamp for the steering column, I started to two blocks of 6061 aluminum. The blocks were clamped in my milling vice and trued up. I then drilled and tapped two holes into the block so i could bolt them together to allow me to bore a precise hole that was perfectly split. When the bolts are tight, the clap secures the column, when loosened, you can move the column in the clamp.
5 5 To make a clamp for the steering column, I started to two blocks of 6061 aluminum. The blocks were clamped in my milling vice and trued up. I then drilled and tapped two holes into the block so i could bolt them together to allow me to bore a precise hole that was perfectly split. When the bolts are tight, the clap secures the column, when loosened, you can move the column in the clamp.
0 2011/06/18 07:32:06
5 6 Setting up and centering a heavy unbalanced rectangular piece in a 4-jaw chuck is always a joy. Being a rank amateur/hobby machinist, this took me way longer than you might imagine! Even on this 1940 ancient well-used lathe, i can still get to 0.001" of what i am trying to achieve.
5 6 Setting up and centering a heavy unbalanced rectangular piece in a 4-jaw chuck is always a joy. Being a rank amateur/hobby machinist, this took me way longer than you might imagine! Even on this 1940 ancient well-used lathe, i can still get to 0.001" of what i am trying to achieve.
0 2011/06/18 07:32:06
5 7 Boring the hole to size on the lathe. Making sure the piece is held nice and tight so you don't shoot it across the room is paramount (don't ask me how i know!!!)
5 7 Boring the hole to size on the lathe. Making sure the piece is held nice and tight so you don't shoot it across the room is paramount (don't ask me how i know!!!)
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00
5 8 Fresh off the lathe, the hole was perfectly split and fit the OD of the steering column exactly.
5 8 Fresh off the lathe, the hole was perfectly split and fit the OD of the steering column exactly.
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00
5 9 Here i am milling off as much material as possible to lighten up the bracket and to achieve the overall height required to insure the bracket fit where intended. Also, note the additional holes - the two inside holes are the clamping bolts and the outer holes are the mounting bolts to mount the bracket to the underside of the dash.
5 9 Here i am milling off as much material as possible to lighten up the bracket and to achieve the overall height required to insure the bracket fit where intended. Also, note the additional holes - the two inside holes are the clamping bolts and the outer holes are the mounting bolts to mount the bracket to the underside of the dash.
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00
5 10 Shaping the part on the mill.
5 10 Shaping the part on the mill.
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14
5 11 The mount was almost done. It was plenty strong but a bit heavy. Back to the mill to shave off some weight!
5 11 The mount was almost done. It was plenty strong but a bit heavy. Back to the mill to shave off some weight!
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14
5 12 So, here is the final mounting bracket to hold the steering column with as much metal cut away as I felt comfortable doing w/o loosing too much integrity. It is installed directly behind the dash and the bolts are accessible from under the dash. It works just as designed and allows you to adjust the steering wheel position from the dash. The sad part is that, after all of this work, you can't even see it!
5 12 So, here is the final mounting bracket to hold the steering column with as much metal cut away as I felt comfortable doing w/o loosing too much integrity. It is installed directly behind the dash and the bolts are accessible from under the dash. It works just as designed and allows you to adjust the steering wheel position from the dash. The sad part is that, after all of this work, you can't even see it!
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14