Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
0 2023/01/26 05:25:21
0 2023/01/26 05:25:19
tttt
tttt
0 2023/01/25 21:02:09
rrrrr
rrrrr
0 2023/01/25 21:02:05
And as you might know already: Whenever I remove a rusty part anyway, it is not rusty anymore, when I put it back... ;)
And as you might know already: Whenever I remove a rusty part anyway, it is not rusty anymore, when I put it back... ;)
0 2023/01/25 20:02:07
So I disassembled the gear selector assy in the car (starting by pulling up the "wooden" bezel from the front). then removing the 4 smaller torx bolts. This allowed me to wiggle the cable-connector-"pin" back into position. Small pic left: dislodged / small pic right: reconnected.
So I disassembled the gear selector assy in the car (starting by pulling up the "wooden" bezel from the front). then removing the 4 smaller torx bolts. This allowed me to wiggle the cable-connector-"pin" back into position. Small pic left: dislodged / small pic right: reconnected.
0 2023/01/25 20:02:05
Then I figured it out pretty quickly, that not "EVERYTHING" was done: I forgot to bolt that bracket into place... That bracket has quite a bit of function: it positions the cable between the gear-sector in the car and the gear-sector outside of the transmission under the car properly. As it turned out, it had quite a bit of a disasterous effect, forgetting that: Without that bracket being attached, the cable dislodged from the gear selector in the car, so that moving it thru the J-gate had no ef
Then I figured it out pretty quickly, that not "EVERYTHING" was done: I forgot to bolt that bracket into place... That bracket has quite a bit of function: it positions the cable between the gear-sector in the car and the gear-sector outside of the transmission under the car properly. As it turned out, it had quite a bit of a disasterous effect, forgetting that: Without that bracket being attached, the cable dislodged from the gear selector in the car, so that moving it thru the J-gate had no ef
0 2023/01/25 20:02:03
This is my "resting position" of the tubes of the transfer pump, while I go and check the weight of the canister. Thus, when EVERYTHING was done, I wanted to go about very careful starting the car, as I thought it might potentially be an issue that the ATF is NOT YET in every corner, where it is supposed to be. So I started the engine and immediately switched it off again. The idea was to build up a tiny bit of ATF-pressure from the ATF pump, and the idea was to initially go thru the gears with
This is my "resting position" of the tubes of the transfer pump, while I go and check the weight of the canister. Thus, when EVERYTHING was done, I wanted to go about very careful starting the car, as I thought it might potentially be an issue that the ATF is NOT YET in every corner, where it is supposed to be. So I started the engine and immediately switched it off again. The idea was to build up a tiny bit of ATF-pressure from the ATF pump, and the idea was to initially go thru the gears with
0 2023/01/25 20:02:01
My setup to fill the ATF without having to remove the battery - would not have been a bit deal, but why, if not required...
My setup to fill the ATF without having to remove the battery - would not have been a bit deal, but why, if not required...
0 2023/01/25 20:01:59
Using a fluid transfer pump I pumped a few ml more than 8L into the transmission via the removed filler plug left of the battery. You may wonder, how I could possibly know, how much I pumped in there with that setup...: I checked the MSDS if that specific ATF: The density is 0.85g/cm3. Plus, I have a scale... ;) Thus: 0.85kg/L. 20L=17kg (total weight with canister was 18.2kg. 8L=6.8kg. Thus, before I start: canister=18.2, with 8L removed, canister=11.4kg. I 3 times after starting the refill, the
Using a fluid transfer pump I pumped a few ml more than 8L into the transmission via the removed filler plug left of the battery. You may wonder, how I could possibly know, how much I pumped in there with that setup...: I checked the MSDS if that specific ATF: The density is 0.85g/cm3. Plus, I have a scale... ;) Thus: 0.85kg/L. 20L=17kg (total weight with canister was 18.2kg. 8L=6.8kg. Thus, before I start: canister=18.2, with 8L removed, canister=11.4kg. I 3 times after starting the refill, the
0 2023/01/25 20:01:57
Pipes both stuck back on, x-bar refitted, bricks removed. Ready for refill:
Pipes both stuck back on, x-bar refitted, bricks removed. Ready for refill:
0 2023/01/25 20:01:55
The first picture of this thread showed already the freshly repainted x-bar...: While it is a bit of work to remove it to get access to the pipes, it is a very good idea anyway, because it was very very badly rusted. And here in Australia cars really do not rust easily, thus, I don't even want to know, hwo those x-bars look in countries with snow and salt on the roads... The process from right to left: rusty, magic with wire brush on angle grinder (wear eye protection!), and painted with black Z
The first picture of this thread showed already the freshly repainted x-bar...: While it is a bit of work to remove it to get access to the pipes, it is a very good idea anyway, because it was very very badly rusted. And here in Australia cars really do not rust easily, thus, I don't even want to know, hwo those x-bars look in countries with snow and salt on the roads... The process from right to left: rusty, magic with wire brush on angle grinder (wear eye protection!), and painted with black Z
0 2023/01/25 20:01:53
I connected a dedicated "waste-pipe" to the lower flange.
I connected a dedicated "waste-pipe" to the lower flange.
0 2023/01/25 20:01:50
The upper pope can be removed the same way. I placed a tiny bit of PVC tube over the air-pressure-gun to increase its outer diameter a bit. HERE I clean out the excess ATF from the radiator by blowing into the 2 little radiator flanges. I don't think anything could happen there... It's a little bit messy, but shown in the next picture is the improved method:
The upper pope can be removed the same way. I placed a tiny bit of PVC tube over the air-pressure-gun to increase its outer diameter a bit. HERE I clean out the excess ATF from the radiator by blowing into the 2 little radiator flanges. I don't think anything could happen there... It's a little bit messy, but shown in the next picture is the improved method:
0 2023/01/25 20:01:48
Have a second fluid waste pan ready under those pipes. (the first one is under the release plug). Just to be 110% sure: I marked the lower pipe with a pink line so that I would not mix them up later.
Have a second fluid waste pan ready under those pipes. (the first one is under the release plug). Just to be 110% sure: I marked the lower pipe with a pink line so that I would not mix them up later.
0 2023/01/25 20:01:46
SPECIAL TOOL: That is actually the cheapest special tool I can think off. I bought a whole box (different sizes) of them on Aliexpress for A$4.40. It's called "7pcs Pipe Disconnect Fuel Line Disconnect". It's required to swap the S-Type fuel filter, the S-Type fuel lines in the engine bay and the same in the X308, the fuel lines connecting to the fuel rail. X-Type fuel rail as well and obviously those 2 pipes. You fiddle it in position and then turn it 45° so that it hold up all 4 clips at the s
SPECIAL TOOL: That is actually the cheapest special tool I can think off. I bought a whole box (different sizes) of them on Aliexpress for A$4.40. It's called "7pcs Pipe Disconnect Fuel Line Disconnect". It's required to swap the S-Type fuel filter, the S-Type fuel lines in the engine bay and the same in the X308, the fuel lines connecting to the fuel rail. X-Type fuel rail as well and obviously those 2 pipes. You fiddle it in position and then turn it 45° so that it hold up all 4 clips at the s
0 2023/01/25 20:01:45
That's the x-bar lowered already. After complete removal of that x-bar, there is proper access to those 2 pipes.
That's the x-bar lowered already. After complete removal of that x-bar, there is proper access to those 2 pipes.
0 2023/01/25 20:01:43
Those the the 2 pipes connecting the transmission to the radiator. They are both pretty low down there on the radiator. Actually, there are not accessible with the x-bar (the function of which is to hold the radiator and the plastic shield up). It's a bit of a bother to remove those 8 bolds, holding that bar in position. Way too many bolts actually - they could have don't without the badly accessible ones (1 on each side). Note the 4 bricks: with the car jacked up to the right level, those 4 bri
Those the the 2 pipes connecting the transmission to the radiator. They are both pretty low down there on the radiator. Actually, there are not accessible with the x-bar (the function of which is to hold the radiator and the plastic shield up). It's a bit of a bother to remove those 8 bolds, holding that bar in position. Way too many bolts actually - they could have don't without the badly accessible ones (1 on each side). Note the 4 bricks: with the car jacked up to the right level, those 4 bri
0 2023/01/25 20:01:41
This is the above mentioned ATF level check bolt. Properly hidden behind that little bracket held by just 2 little bolts. While you don't have to, I removed that bracket to get better access to the check-bolt and to be able to see properly, how much flows out of there, when opened.
This is the above mentioned ATF level check bolt. Properly hidden behind that little bracket held by just 2 little bolts. While you don't have to, I removed that bracket to get better access to the check-bolt and to be able to see properly, how much flows out of there, when opened.
0 2023/01/25 20:01:37
The whole sage starts with jacking up the X-Type level and removing those 3 plastic shields shown above (the that x-bar - more about that later)
The whole sage starts with jacking up the X-Type level and removing those 3 plastic shields shown above (the that x-bar - more about that later)
0 2023/01/25 20:01:34
0 2023/01/23 00:43:40
...and stuck the solved puzzle in the right order onto the X308... ;)
...and stuck the solved puzzle in the right order onto the X308... ;)
0 2023/01/23 00:35:45
...next I solved the puzzle...
...next I solved the puzzle...
0 2023/01/23 00:35:41
And all the hoses are fine again...
And all the hoses are fine again...
0 2023/01/20 04:09:00
That's the straight part cut, and I still have a bit of hose left for future fixes...
That's the straight part cut, and I still have a bit of hose left for future fixes...
0 2023/01/20 04:08:58
So I drove today to our local radiator shop, and brought him that hose-elbow, and he gave me that big one...: It's part No. RH1094 for a Holden Commodore (Holden = Opel = Vauxhall = GM) for AU$20. From that I could cut the elbow and the straight hose on top as well. The OE Jag Elbow would have cost double...
So I drove today to our local radiator shop, and brought him that hose-elbow, and he gave me that big one...: It's part No. RH1094 for a Holden Commodore (Holden = Opel = Vauxhall = GM) for AU$20. From that I could cut the elbow and the straight hose on top as well. The OE Jag Elbow would have cost double...
0 2023/01/20 04:08:56
:Looking at the original Jaguar replacement hose, you can see, that they added there a sharp bent...: That tells me that I am not the only one whos drivebelt "ate" the hose. Looks like a design fault on the OE hose.
:Looking at the original Jaguar replacement hose, you can see, that they added there a sharp bent...: That tells me that I am not the only one whos drivebelt "ate" the hose. Looks like a design fault on the OE hose.
0 2023/01/20 04:08:54
And there it is: That cut is the leak. Apparently the drivebelt is somehow able to reach that hose and to cut it over time.
And there it is: That cut is the leak. Apparently the drivebelt is somehow able to reach that hose and to cut it over time.
0 2023/01/20 04:08:53
Next I determined the approximate location of the leak by looking where all those places with that white crust are and there the leak would have to be to reach all those places. I concluded it had to be one of the two hoses, which I removed in the picture above already.
Next I determined the approximate location of the leak by looking where all those places with that white crust are and there the leak would have to be to reach all those places. I concluded it had to be one of the two hoses, which I removed in the picture above already.
0 2023/01/20 04:08:50
There is a "tell tale sign" which helps tracking the source of the leak: Note the sugar-crust-like white spots on the pulley in the centre of the picture: That is residue from the coolant, which leaked and evaporated.
There is a "tell tale sign" which helps tracking the source of the leak: Note the sugar-crust-like white spots on the pulley in the centre of the picture: That is residue from the coolant, which leaked and evaporated.
0 2023/01/20 04:08:46
PS: Those are the T10 LED bulbs I just mentioned.
PS: Those are the T10 LED bulbs I just mentioned.
0 2023/01/15 06:54:22
I also found some real nice and bright LED bulbs (T10) for those lights, which light up in the first light-on position. Optionally, I could switch those on manually at daytime, additional to the automatic DTRL.
I also found some real nice and bright LED bulbs (T10) for those lights, which light up in the first light-on position. Optionally, I could switch those on manually at daytime, additional to the automatic DTRL.
0 2023/01/15 06:42:38
Here it is: The "Angel in the center fold" (J. Geils Band, 1981), complete with angel eyes and chromed wings (mirrors).
Here it is: The "Angel in the center fold" (J. Geils Band, 1981), complete with angel eyes and chromed wings (mirrors).
0 2023/01/15 06:42:36
0 2023/01/15 06:01:26
0 2023/01/15 06:01:24
The angel eyes come to the fog lights from the front, but I needed to move the fog-lights back a little bit. Not easy, as the nut is on a long bold, i.e. I would have needed a long socket, but there is no space for a long socket - luckily I had a half-long 10mm socket. I attached the angel eyes the low tech way: With silicone. Sounds rough, but this is not noticeable. I wiped off the excess in time and I though of something to press the angel-eyes into position, while the silicone dries.
The angel eyes come to the fog lights from the front, but I needed to move the fog-lights back a little bit. Not easy, as the nut is on a long bold, i.e. I would have needed a long socket, but there is no space for a long socket - luckily I had a half-long 10mm socket. I attached the angel eyes the low tech way: With silicone. Sounds rough, but this is not noticeable. I wiped off the excess in time and I though of something to press the angel-eyes into position, while the silicone dries.
0 2023/01/15 06:01:22
I had to cut a little gap into the lig for my cables. Looks neat and tidy.
I had to cut a little gap into the lig for my cables. Looks neat and tidy.
0 2023/01/15 06:01:20
I wrapped the 2 relays in insulation tape.
I wrapped the 2 relays in insulation tape.
0 2023/01/15 06:01:17
Getting there... Note the connector: I added a 2 pin connector. Those cable to to the LED DTRL. Obviously I do not want to start cutting cables in the future, if I with to remove the bumper. The relay on the right is the ignition relay. Nice that I had some space for my small 2 relays. (this is where at some versions there is a wash-wipe relay).
Getting there... Note the connector: I added a 2 pin connector. Those cable to to the LED DTRL. Obviously I do not want to start cutting cables in the future, if I with to remove the bumper. The relay on the right is the ignition relay. Nice that I had some space for my small 2 relays. (this is where at some versions there is a wash-wipe relay).
0 2023/01/15 06:01:16
In detail, it looks like that. I know that the first relay in line is actually not necessary, when I use the power from the coil directly and not from the battery, but hey - maybe next time I'll think faster... ;) The function of the upper relay is to cut off the power supply to the LED DTRL, when the low beam is switched on. In the diagram above the lower relay is the right relay in the previous picture ( and the upper the left). The coil and swithc in red inside the 2 boxes are obviously onl
In detail, it looks like that. I know that the first relay in line is actually not necessary, when I use the power from the coil directly and not from the battery, but hey - maybe next time I'll think faster... ;) The function of the upper relay is to cut off the power supply to the LED DTRL, when the low beam is switched on. In the diagram above the lower relay is the right relay in the previous picture ( and the upper the left). The coil and swithc in red inside the 2 boxes are obviously onl
0 2023/01/15 06:01:14