Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
NOW THIS IS CRITICAL and difficult...: To get it right (refitting that huge washer back on, that is) it needs a lot of patience...: The trick is to make 100% sure that the washer is absolutely centred when it touches the "core". And this is very difficult, because the core is about 5mm below the top surface of the rubber. In preparation I took the assy above the other way round (without the washer) and pressed carefully until everything was a bit neater together. Then as you see it above, pressa
NOW THIS IS CRITICAL and difficult...: To get it right (refitting that huge washer back on, that is) it needs a lot of patience...: The trick is to make 100% sure that the washer is absolutely centred when it touches the "core". And this is very difficult, because the core is about 5mm below the top surface of the rubber. In preparation I took the assy above the other way round (without the washer) and pressed carefully until everything was a bit neater together. Then as you see it above, pressa
0 2023/01/08 04:05:18
Left: OE part from underneath - Middle: Modified new part with a slice cut off - right: new part, as it arrived.
Left: OE part from underneath - Middle: Modified new part with a slice cut off - right: new part, as it arrived.
0 2023/01/08 04:05:16
But that worked: I used that same small socket from the upper side and pushed that core thru to the effect that the huge top washer came loose.
But that worked: I used that same small socket from the upper side and pushed that core thru to the effect that the huge top washer came loose.
0 2023/01/08 04:05:14
Now that does not work: I used a small socket and an hydraulic press - it looked like that core in there could be moved. But I figured soon, that this would not be possible from the underside, because the core is one part with the rim.
Now that does not work: I used a small socket and an hydraulic press - it looked like that core in there could be moved. But I figured soon, that this would not be possible from the underside, because the core is one part with the rim.
0 2023/01/08 04:05:12
Next I removed the 5 bolts: Lift-off! The rubber underneath does actually not look that bad at all - that is because it is heat-protected...
Next I removed the 5 bolts: Lift-off! The rubber underneath does actually not look that bad at all - that is because it is heat-protected...
0 2023/01/08 04:05:09
I could not find a strong spanner small enough to hold the shock in position (so I took a big adjustable spanner, while I removed the nut with a size 17 spanner (I applied WD40 or similar before). NOthing will happen, when you remove that nut with the jack underneath as described.
I could not find a strong spanner small enough to hold the shock in position (so I took a big adjustable spanner, while I removed the nut with a size 17 spanner (I applied WD40 or similar before). NOthing will happen, when you remove that nut with the jack underneath as described.
0 2023/01/08 04:05:06
Before you remove all the bolts, jack up the car to the point just BEFORE the tyre would lift off. You can fine-adjust later as you need it. (Don't be confused that I start with the right top mount and I jack up the left side (the picture is from later, when I removed the left top mount...)
Before you remove all the bolts, jack up the car to the point just BEFORE the tyre would lift off. You can fine-adjust later as you need it. (Don't be confused that I start with the right top mount and I jack up the left side (the picture is from later, when I removed the left top mount...)
0 2023/01/08 04:05:05
That seems to be a standard sight... - I did not appreciate that...
That seems to be a standard sight... - I did not appreciate that...
0 2023/01/08 04:05:01
It was a bit though to fit the injectors into the fuel rail - I applied carefully a little bit of bearing-grease, so it slips in better. So with none of the clips for the injectors gone missing I fitted those first and then I carefully fitted the injectors back into the air intake - and mounted those 4 bolts on top of the rail again.
It was a bit though to fit the injectors into the fuel rail - I applied carefully a little bit of bearing-grease, so it slips in better. So with none of the clips for the injectors gone missing I fitted those first and then I carefully fitted the injectors back into the air intake - and mounted those 4 bolts on top of the rail again.
0 2023/01/05 03:24:26
These are the OE injectors: Left with new upper and lower gasket, right with old gaskets. I have not replaced the black middle gaskets...
These are the OE injectors: Left with new upper and lower gasket, right with old gaskets. I have not replaced the black middle gaskets...
0 2023/01/05 03:24:24
When I removed the injectors last time, I measured the OE gaskets and ordered accordingly. I found those on Aliexpress: Initially I measure on those thicker ones ID 8mm and CS 3.5mm. I ordered them already (material FKM) and then I spotted they someone is offering similar seal for exactly that purpose "fuel injector repair seals ID 7.8mm and CS 3.9mm - so I ordered 100 of those (AU$25). And the smaller seals I measured as OD 12mm and CS 2mm, and I ordered them in FKM (10 pcs for less then AU$4).
When I removed the injectors last time, I measured the OE gaskets and ordered accordingly. I found those on Aliexpress: Initially I measure on those thicker ones ID 8mm and CS 3.5mm. I ordered them already (material FKM) and then I spotted they someone is offering similar seal for exactly that purpose "fuel injector repair seals ID 7.8mm and CS 3.9mm - so I ordered 100 of those (AU$25). And the smaller seals I measured as OD 12mm and CS 2mm, and I ordered them in FKM (10 pcs for less then AU$4).
0 2023/01/05 03:24:22
But one injector just would not want to budge, so I removed instead the upper clip and pulled the rail off the injector - and only later pulled out the injector with great difficulty. Probably a bit to obvious to remind you not to loose any of those clips.
But one injector just would not want to budge, so I removed instead the upper clip and pulled the rail off the injector - and only later pulled out the injector with great difficulty. Probably a bit to obvious to remind you not to loose any of those clips.
0 2023/01/05 03:24:20
I intended to also remove the other fuel line. This one was already last time more difficult to remove - and today it was - despite the proper fuel-disconnect-tool - even more difficult as with the upper throttle body in place, there was even less space. So I had to leave it connected and pull all the injectors off the rail with the rail not fully removed from the engine.
I intended to also remove the other fuel line. This one was already last time more difficult to remove - and today it was - despite the proper fuel-disconnect-tool - even more difficult as with the upper throttle body in place, there was even less space. So I had to leave it connected and pull all the injectors off the rail with the rail not fully removed from the engine.
0 2023/01/05 03:24:19
So I pulled off the connectors again and pulled out the injectors again - I wiggled them out carefully.
So I pulled off the connectors again and pulled out the injectors again - I wiggled them out carefully.
0 2023/01/05 03:24:17
Also, the hex-head of that bolt was worn off or something - I assume it fitted an 8mm spanner once, but that was too big now and a 7mm spanner too big, this I had to sacrifice a 7mm spanner and transform it with a file into a 7.5mm spanner... That way I got it off. Also it was way too long - a real torture to get it off. I got myself a shorter M6x1mm bolt to suit a 10mm spanner (small picture).
Also, the hex-head of that bolt was worn off or something - I assume it fitted an 8mm spanner once, but that was too big now and a 7mm spanner too big, this I had to sacrifice a 7mm spanner and transform it with a file into a 7.5mm spanner... That way I got it off. Also it was way too long - a real torture to get it off. I got myself a shorter M6x1mm bolt to suit a 10mm spanner (small picture).
0 2023/01/05 03:24:13
This means, removing the fuel rail from the air intake again. Meanwhile I also received the fuel line disconnector (light blue part) and I already disconnected one fuel line with it (the 2 ends are in the 2 red circles). And to free the fuel rail from the air intake, I also had to remove the bolt in the blue circle. This was really hard. Last time I had better access with the upper throttle body removed, but I did not want to remove it this time...
This means, removing the fuel rail from the air intake again. Meanwhile I also received the fuel line disconnector (light blue part) and I already disconnected one fuel line with it (the 2 ends are in the 2 red circles). And to free the fuel rail from the air intake, I also had to remove the bolt in the blue circle. This was really hard. Last time I had better access with the upper throttle body removed, but I did not want to remove it this time...
0 2023/01/05 03:24:10
You'll find all the required torque settings (e.g. air intake and throttle body) and torque-order via google.
You'll find all the required torque settings (e.g. air intake and throttle body) and torque-order via google.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:56
Word of warning: Think long and hard before attaching the upper throttle body! There are a lot of hoses, pipes and connectors, which want to be connected BEFORE you attach the upper half of the throttle body. It you don't keep that in mind, you will be quite busy detaching and attaching the upper half again and again.
Word of warning: Think long and hard before attaching the upper throttle body! There are a lot of hoses, pipes and connectors, which want to be connected BEFORE you attach the upper half of the throttle body. It you don't keep that in mind, you will be quite busy detaching and attaching the upper half again and again.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:54
And the air intake got its 8 new gaskets.
And the air intake got its 8 new gaskets.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:52
0 2023/01/04 02:53:50
My initial approach of cleaning the injectors was to close those openings, which I did not want (e.g. with coins and heat-glue), then I put quite a bit of carby-cleaner (Carburetor-cleaner) into the rail, and while carefully applying airpressure (via air gun) into the rail, I attached 12V to the injectors (one after another). At 6 of the 8 the spray-pattern looked alright. I was a bit worried about the other two, which where highest up, when positioning the rail on the ground... - maybe it was o
My initial approach of cleaning the injectors was to close those openings, which I did not want (e.g. with coins and heat-glue), then I put quite a bit of carby-cleaner (Carburetor-cleaner) into the rail, and while carefully applying airpressure (via air gun) into the rail, I attached 12V to the injectors (one after another). At 6 of the 8 the spray-pattern looked alright. I was a bit worried about the other two, which where highest up, when positioning the rail on the ground... - maybe it was o
0 2023/01/04 02:53:48
Alternatively, prefill the hose with carby-cleaner and apply carefully airpressue with 12V connected.
Alternatively, prefill the hose with carby-cleaner and apply carefully airpressue with 12V connected.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:47
Anyway, I removed those 2 and applied the same principle (which I applied before to the complete rail) now to one injector at a time only (making the small hose to bigger hose connection air-tight with heat-glue... So: Applying 12V (or maybe even just 9VDC) to the injector and then pressing the spray-can. And hope for a nice spray pattern of the injector.
Anyway, I removed those 2 and applied the same principle (which I applied before to the complete rail) now to one injector at a time only (making the small hose to bigger hose connection air-tight with heat-glue... So: Applying 12V (or maybe even just 9VDC) to the injector and then pressing the spray-can. And hope for a nice spray pattern of the injector.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:44
As I planned to clean those dirty surfaces I made sure that I would not get any dirt into the air-"holes".
As I planned to clean those dirty surfaces I made sure that I would not get any dirt into the air-"holes".
0 2023/01/04 02:53:42
Finally off! I cleaned the air intake out thoroughly with grease-remover and water pressure cleaner. Next I pre-dried it with air-pressure and let the sun do the rest.
Finally off! I cleaned the air intake out thoroughly with grease-remover and water pressure cleaner. Next I pre-dried it with air-pressure and let the sun do the rest.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:40
...but not just yet: After removing heaps of pipes, hoses and connectors, there was still a very stubborn plastic-connector on a T-section of a plastic hose. Drove me nuts - I asked for advise here on the forum I received a quick answer:
...but not just yet: After removing heaps of pipes, hoses and connectors, there was still a very stubborn plastic-connector on a T-section of a plastic hose. Drove me nuts - I asked for advise here on the forum I received a quick answer:
0 2023/01/04 02:53:39
...and closer...
...and closer...
0 2023/01/04 02:53:37
Getting closer to removing the air intake
Getting closer to removing the air intake
0 2023/01/04 02:53:35
Well - disconnection the fuel lines (there are 2). Don't do it like that (I used an old antenna to make my own tool. It worked alright before on the S-Type fuel filter, but here I had a real fight on my hands. It is not worth the trouble: Order IN TIME, before you start, these special plastic clips cheap on the internet. They are cheap. But since I did not have them back then, I had to improvise...
Well - disconnection the fuel lines (there are 2). Don't do it like that (I used an old antenna to make my own tool. It worked alright before on the S-Type fuel filter, but here I had a real fight on my hands. It is not worth the trouble: Order IN TIME, before you start, these special plastic clips cheap on the internet. They are cheap. But since I did not have them back then, I had to improvise...
0 2023/01/04 02:53:33
I thought that's worth a picture: After quite a bit of fuel escaped already (when disconnecting the fuel rail - and who knows, how much dirt left the fuel rail already with that fuel, I emptied the remaining fuel from the fuel rail into a clean container: All that dirt was in there. Makes me wonder, why the car drove at all...
I thought that's worth a picture: After quite a bit of fuel escaped already (when disconnecting the fuel rail - and who knows, how much dirt left the fuel rail already with that fuel, I emptied the remaining fuel from the fuel rail into a clean container: All that dirt was in there. Makes me wonder, why the car drove at all...
0 2023/01/04 02:53:31
That's where you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
That's where you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:29
Instead (very slowly) I pulled out one injector after another with the fuel line attached. Pulled it out of the airintke. Oh, and note that plastic tube in the middle...: This is P/N AJ81211. Don't damage it! At britishparts it costs 215 Pounds plus postage! Again: I use my heat-gun to avoid braking potentially brittle plastic.
Instead (very slowly) I pulled out one injector after another with the fuel line attached. Pulled it out of the airintke. Oh, and note that plastic tube in the middle...: This is P/N AJ81211. Don't damage it! At britishparts it costs 215 Pounds plus postage! Again: I use my heat-gun to avoid braking potentially brittle plastic.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:27
Next I removed the clips, which connect the upper part of the injectors to the fuel rail by pull all those 8 clips towards the intake... - not that that had much purpose at this stage, because the fuel rail did not want to disconnect from the injectors anyway.
Next I removed the clips, which connect the upper part of the injectors to the fuel rail by pull all those 8 clips towards the intake... - not that that had much purpose at this stage, because the fuel rail did not want to disconnect from the injectors anyway.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:25
And carefully remove the connectors.
And carefully remove the connectors.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:23
But pushing with a thumb or finger is not really possible - I pushed the clip inwards with a screwdriver. Bit by bit - all 4 clips on each side.
But pushing with a thumb or finger is not really possible - I pushed the clip inwards with a screwdriver. Bit by bit - all 4 clips on each side.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:21
Next: Removal of electrical connectors off the injectors: See my thumb: That silver clip need to be push inwards - that's not something, you would have expected - pulling came to mind first, but that was wrong.
Next: Removal of electrical connectors off the injectors: See my thumb: That silver clip need to be push inwards - that's not something, you would have expected - pulling came to mind first, but that was wrong.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:19
You'll get there. But without seeing thoe pictures here, this would be a real thoughy.
You'll get there. But without seeing thoe pictures here, this would be a real thoughy.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:18
And this here is a good one: It drives many people nuts. I did a lot of internet research, and even those, who managed to open it, describe the process that badly and without pictures that you need a lot of fantasy to follow their drift: Use a flat screwdriver to push the "black plastic ring" (it is more than a ring, but that is all you can see) into the brass fitting, only then pull on the black hose (possibly in and out movement).
And this here is a good one: It drives many people nuts. I did a lot of internet research, and even those, who managed to open it, describe the process that badly and without pictures that you need a lot of fantasy to follow their drift: Use a flat screwdriver to push the "black plastic ring" (it is more than a ring, but that is all you can see) into the brass fitting, only then pull on the black hose (possibly in and out movement).
0 2023/01/04 02:53:16
Every connector has it's own secret of how to open it - I can't mention every connector, but this I will: You find this principle also on the S-Type, where a loom connectors to the front bumper - needs to be opened to remove the bumper form the car: The one on the right, behind the hose: Before you can pull that plug, you need to slide the red "cover" back.
Every connector has it's own secret of how to open it - I can't mention every connector, but this I will: You find this principle also on the S-Type, where a loom connectors to the front bumper - needs to be opened to remove the bumper form the car: The one on the right, behind the hose: Before you can pull that plug, you need to slide the red "cover" back.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:14
I read frequently, that people did that job here, and all went fine, except that they broke a few plastic hoses... well, that's a problem, because, if you find those hoses at all, they are prohibitively expensive. I live in a warm climate - nevertheless before touching a plastic-hose-connector (it's a squeeze to open mechanism) I always apply a little bit of heat with my heat gun, because old plastic is brittle, but if it is warm, it is less brittle.
I read frequently, that people did that job here, and all went fine, except that they broke a few plastic hoses... well, that's a problem, because, if you find those hoses at all, they are prohibitively expensive. I live in a warm climate - nevertheless before touching a plastic-hose-connector (it's a squeeze to open mechanism) I always apply a little bit of heat with my heat gun, because old plastic is brittle, but if it is warm, it is less brittle.
0 2023/01/04 02:53:12