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0 2023/10/18 00:45:20 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/18 00:45:16 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/14 15:13:53 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 14:28:02 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 04:13:13 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 04:13:11 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 04:13:07 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 04:13:04 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/12 04:13:00 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/10 14:10:11 Peter_of_A
0 2023/10/09 01:52:51 Peter_of_A
It's easy to see, which pin looks different - but that is only, because the pins is of slightly different design. With that new pin, I finally had achieved proper electrical contact and no more ABS light on. That nut was really hard to crack!
It's easy to see, which pin looks different - but that is only, because the pins is of slightly different design. With that new pin, I finally had achieved proper electrical contact and no more ABS light on. That nut was really hard to crack!
0 2023/09/30 05:48:13 Peter_of_A
I think I used tiny screwdriver (or needle) to move the plastic bit to the side, which held the original "hollow" pin 15 in position, so that I could push the original pin out of the connector. Next I extended the wire-length a bit and soldered the new "hollow" pin onto that extension and pressed the new pin back into it's position.
I think I used tiny screwdriver (or needle) to move the plastic bit to the side, which held the original "hollow" pin 15 in position, so that I could push the original pin out of the connector. Next I extended the wire-length a bit and soldered the new "hollow" pin onto that extension and pressed the new pin back into it's position.
0 2023/09/30 05:48:09 Peter_of_A
Certainly a big improvement.
Certainly a big improvement.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:28 Peter_of_A
I used 30mm wide chrome moulding (plastic) and I had bent the edges inwards a bit, before fixing it with black roof silicone and securing it with household sticky-tape for 2 days. And the oval S-Type side indicators are not also LED and crystal clear.
I used 30mm wide chrome moulding (plastic) and I had bent the edges inwards a bit, before fixing it with black roof silicone and securing it with household sticky-tape for 2 days. And the oval S-Type side indicators are not also LED and crystal clear.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:26 Peter_of_A
It works.
It works.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:23 Peter_of_A
Note that I had to improve on my metal latch design: Not as wide on the end and bent inwards in a step.
Note that I had to improve on my metal latch design: Not as wide on the end and bent inwards in a step.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:21 Peter_of_A
That square module in the centre of the picture is the controller of the front indicator LED bulb, which doubles up are DTRL when the indicator is not active.
That square module in the centre of the picture is the controller of the front indicator LED bulb, which doubles up are DTRL when the indicator is not active.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:18 Peter_of_A
The power for the new clear indicators comes again via a splice on the wires to the front indicator.
The power for the new clear indicators comes again via a splice on the wires to the front indicator.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:16 Peter_of_A
I made again those metal extensions - pretty much the same as for the rear reflector replacements.
I made again those metal extensions - pretty much the same as for the rear reflector replacements.
0 2023/09/30 04:47:14 Peter_of_A
Hence, I new approach is required: I "glued" a nut onto the position, where it will be needed behind that silver latch. Then I tightened the bolt so that the nut would hold on to that position a day later. That's kind of the idea in a "weld-nut"...
Hence, I new approach is required: I "glued" a nut onto the position, where it will be needed behind that silver latch. Then I tightened the bolt so that the nut would hold on to that position a day later. That's kind of the idea in a "weld-nut"...
0 2023/09/30 04:47:11 Peter_of_A
I loosened the inner wheel arch lines... but that did not help, as the wiper wash bottle behind the bumper makes sure that access with your hand is impossible from behind. So not even taping the nut to the finger would help here (as I did it when replacing the rear left reflector (see above)).
I loosened the inner wheel arch lines... but that did not help, as the wiper wash bottle behind the bumper makes sure that access with your hand is impossible from behind. So not even taping the nut to the finger would help here (as I did it when replacing the rear left reflector (see above)).
0 2023/09/30 04:47:07 Peter_of_A
I think this was an attempt to get one step closer to the OLD S-Type (1963-1968) design...  ;) And I note that the orange side reflectors disappeared as well.
I think this was an attempt to get one step closer to the OLD S-Type (1963-1968) design... ;) And I note that the orange side reflectors disappeared as well.
0 2023/09/30 04:18:30 Peter_of_A
And while I could have used the transfer pump to  fill the new diff oil into the diff, it would have been wasteful due to the long tubes and I would not know exactly, how much new diff oil I had filled in there. Which this 100ml syringe, which I filled 15 times, I know exactly that I have filled 1.5L in there.
And while I could have used the transfer pump to fill the new diff oil into the diff, it would have been wasteful due to the long tubes and I would not know exactly, how much new diff oil I had filled in there. Which this 100ml syringe, which I filled 15 times, I know exactly that I have filled 1.5L in there.
0 2023/09/28 04:26:09 Peter_of_A
On the right is a 1.5L bottle with the old diff oil, which I had removed with the transfer pump. I the jar is, what I removed with the vacuum cleaner. It may not seem much, but I wanted to get out as much as possible, plus, the was some fine particle debris in the jar as well - good to have that removed from the diff as well...
On the right is a 1.5L bottle with the old diff oil, which I had removed with the transfer pump. I the jar is, what I removed with the vacuum cleaner. It may not seem much, but I wanted to get out as much as possible, plus, the was some fine particle debris in the jar as well - good to have that removed from the diff as well...
0 2023/09/28 04:26:07 Peter_of_A
Here you see the suction of the vacuum cleaner in action - you can see a bit of oil being sucked into the jar.
Here you see the suction of the vacuum cleaner in action - you can see a bit of oil being sucked into the jar.
0 2023/09/28 04:26:04 Peter_of_A
SO the longer tube in the jar connects to the tube from the diff and the other connects to my old vacuum cleaner, which I keep in the garage, and which has a garden hose as suction end by default. This garden hose fits just nicely over my aluminium tube. Note that I use 2 more cut offs of the antenna as adapters and as shown above I widened up the tubes again with the long nose pliers and the heat gun to make the tube fit over the aluminium pipes.
SO the longer tube in the jar connects to the tube from the diff and the other connects to my old vacuum cleaner, which I keep in the garage, and which has a garden hose as suction end by default. This garden hose fits just nicely over my aluminium tube. Note that I use 2 more cut offs of the antenna as adapters and as shown above I widened up the tubes again with the long nose pliers and the heat gun to make the tube fit over the aluminium pipes.
0 2023/09/28 04:26:00 Peter_of_A
But I wanted to be really thorough: I used a grass jar, put 2 holes into the lid, put 2 hoses thru there and used black hot glue to seal the 2 holes with the 2 tubes in there. The tube, which goes to the bottom of the jar is the one coming from the suction tip in the diff. The other tube will remain closely under the lid - and I also placed a hanging bottle cap under this shorter tube to protect it from fluid splashes (it is hanging there on a wire).
But I wanted to be really thorough: I used a grass jar, put 2 holes into the lid, put 2 hoses thru there and used black hot glue to seal the 2 holes with the 2 tubes in there. The tube, which goes to the bottom of the jar is the one coming from the suction tip in the diff. The other tube will remain closely under the lid - and I also placed a hanging bottle cap under this shorter tube to protect it from fluid splashes (it is hanging there on a wire).
0 2023/09/28 04:25:58 Peter_of_A
Most of the old diff oil can be removed with a transfer pump as seen here. After having seemingly remove nearly all of the old diff oil that way, it pay to wait 30 minutes or so until gravity pulls down more oil to the bottom of the diff and then you can pump out a bit more.
Most of the old diff oil can be removed with a transfer pump as seen here. After having seemingly remove nearly all of the old diff oil that way, it pay to wait 30 minutes or so until gravity pulls down more oil to the bottom of the diff and then you can pump out a bit more.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:55 Peter_of_A
"Suction tip" inserted.
"Suction tip" inserted.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:53 Peter_of_A
So this goes into the diff filler hole. Any attempt to use a flexible hose and to stuff it into that filler hole will be pretty futile, as it will not be possible to convince any flexible hose to "go" to the bottom of the diff inside, and if the suction point is not at that bottom, it will not be possible to remove nearly all of the old diff oil.
So this goes into the diff filler hole. Any attempt to use a flexible hose and to stuff it into that filler hole will be pretty futile, as it will not be possible to convince any flexible hose to "go" to the bottom of the diff inside, and if the suction point is not at that bottom, it will not be possible to remove nearly all of the old diff oil.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:51 Peter_of_A
To enable the clear tube to slide over the "suction tip" it needed to be widened up a bit. I used long nose pliers, which I pull apart, while holding them in front of a hot air gun, which I hold between my knees.
To enable the clear tube to slide over the "suction tip" it needed to be widened up a bit. I used long nose pliers, which I pull apart, while holding them in front of a hot air gun, which I hold between my knees.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:49 Peter_of_A
I created such a useful tool once before, when I did the diff oil change on my S-Type. I could not find it anymore, hence I made a new one. This "suction tip" is a cut-off from an old TV or Radio roof antenna. I cut it in such a way so that the longer side just reaches the bottom inside of the diff after pushing it thru the filler hole - and it just fits.
I created such a useful tool once before, when I did the diff oil change on my S-Type. I could not find it anymore, hence I made a new one. This "suction tip" is a cut-off from an old TV or Radio roof antenna. I cut it in such a way so that the longer side just reaches the bottom inside of the diff after pushing it thru the filler hole - and it just fits.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:47 Peter_of_A
This is the filler plug: On the left before cleaning and on the right after cleaning. The magnet on there collects many metal particles.
This is the filler plug: On the left before cleaning and on the right after cleaning. The magnet on there collects many metal particles.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:44 Peter_of_A
So I then had a very short bit with 3/8 on one side and with a surface to attach an 8mm spanner on the other side. Using this with a spanner made it easy to remove the filler plug.
So I then had a very short bit with 3/8 on one side and with a surface to attach an 8mm spanner on the other side. Using this with a spanner made it easy to remove the filler plug.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:40 Peter_of_A
Normally I have for cases of limited space access and for cases of firmly corroded bolts my ratchet, where the mechanism is "locked" as it is all welded together. But even that ratchet did not allow access to the filler plug. But I had a broken 3/8 extension, which I modified with a cutting disc.
Normally I have for cases of limited space access and for cases of firmly corroded bolts my ratchet, where the mechanism is "locked" as it is all welded together. But even that ratchet did not allow access to the filler plug. But I had a broken 3/8 extension, which I modified with a cutting disc.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:38 Peter_of_A
0 2023/09/27 07:26:13 Peter_of_A
And as mentioned above already: I did the same kind of redesign already on my S-type a few month ago. Note that the X-Type does not yet have its bonnet leaper and its headlight chrome bezels as seen on the first picture on the top.
And as mentioned above already: I did the same kind of redesign already on my S-type a few month ago. Note that the X-Type does not yet have its bonnet leaper and its headlight chrome bezels as seen on the first picture on the top.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:20 Peter_of_A
And then in with the upper insert as well. I fixed the leaping Jaguar with bolts from the back and with clear roof and gutter silicone (from the back - i.e. not visible).
And then in with the upper insert as well. I fixed the leaping Jaguar with bolts from the back and with clear roof and gutter silicone (from the back - i.e. not visible).
0 2023/09/27 06:04:18 Peter_of_A
Obviously I had to come up with a new way of fixing this cut off section to the rear of the front bumper. I applied plenty of black roof and gutter silicone and I put the 3 bolts in place, which come from under the bumper (when fixed to the car later) to make make sure, that the insert will sit in the correct position.
Obviously I had to come up with a new way of fixing this cut off section to the rear of the front bumper. I applied plenty of black roof and gutter silicone and I put the 3 bolts in place, which come from under the bumper (when fixed to the car later) to make make sure, that the insert will sit in the correct position.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:15 Peter_of_A
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