For a cheap mod that will make your car look 100% better get four of these 10mm spacers for your car...

10mm Fit Jaguar F Type s Type XF XFR XJ XK 5x108mm 63 4 Billet Wheel Spacers | eBay

Along with these lug nuts in black or silver to suit...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the car will sit like a Ferrari with the wheels where they are supposed to be.

See for yourself. She squats far beefier now, looking like she can benchpress a ton. I know a lot of people are just terrified of wheel spacers. Know these are hub centric with the correct bore for Jag. With the ET style lugs with the thread extensions, with oem Jag wheels, I can safely assure you that theres no wobble, no rubbing, no safety issues. I am not familiar enough with our car to know the difference yet but physics tell us that we will have better handling and balance with the wider stance.

Downside now is I have to be 10mm more careful when parallel parking.

GO DUBS!!!!!

 

Got mine from H&R. I think they're 10 in the front and 20 in the back.

 

Nice, wondering how you got 20mm to get enough thread. 10mm was very close.

 

Mine are 15mm front and rear. They are not a simple plate. The plates each with 5 imbedded studs of the proper length are first bolted to the hub. The wheels are then fastened to the studs in the spacer. You can use the stock wheel nuts with these.



Foosh acquired these in a group purchase and was kind enough to pass them along to me (at substantial discount) when he decided not to deploy them.

 

OK - with 10mm, you don't have to do all that. ET nuts give enough turns to be OK with the spacer.

People have a choice now.

 

Exactly. Anything over 10mm has to be an adapter plate rather than a spacer.

 

Can you take a picture of car from back looking down side profile?

 

Looks good Polaris, but, here's the but.....

I see you've added flat plain spacers, that would be a major cause for concern for me, especially on such a high powered vehicle. Looks like you've basically removed te hub which means that the wheel sit on the bolts and ar not hubcentric leading to wobbly wheels and serious danger, I'd look into that if I were you.

Unhingd has shown the correct safe way to do this with his adapters / spacers, which are the exact same as the ones I used on my vehicle.
I got mine from H&R

Best
Jim

 

The rule of thumb known to all wheel people worth a damn is safe = 5 or more turns. 10MM spacers with the nuts I describe gave me 5.5 turns with the oem Toronado wheel. This is a fact. Thats why I posted this to let people know this particular set up works just fine. I'm not a novice when it comes to this and I know that doing this wrong can be very dangerous. Not only would I not drive the car in an unsafe fashion but I certainly wouldn't pass on the risk to others. I can only speak for what worked for me and what will work for others using the same variables that I used. Now there are many different wheels out there to consider with many different dimensions - so I'll say it again...

MAKE SURE THE LUGS TURN OVER 5 TIMES ON THE STUD WITH THE WHEELS YOU ARE USING.
USE ET OR EXTENDED THREAD LUG NUTS TO GET YOU THE EXTRA THREADING YOU LOSE WITH THE ADAPTER.
MAKE SURE THE LUG THREAD PASS THROUGH THE WHEEL HOLE OPENING SO YOU CAN GET THE 5+ TURNS.
DON'T ATTEMPT THIS WITH SPACERS OVER 10MM. ANYTHING OVER USE AN ADAPTER INSTEAD.

In my eye, 10mm is the perfect width. The fender flare edge lines up with the tire like Ferrari. Without seeing in person, I'm not convinced the wider the better but then again 5-10 more mm is only 3/16-3/8". All would look great but the method I used is by far the less complicated way to do this safely.

Not sure what you mean "I look like I removed my hub and are sitting on bolts and not hub centric".

On a different note...

Did you guys have to shave the oem studs down to not extend past the spacer? If not what happened to the length of the original stud?

 

+1. I didn't look at the link until now. I assumed Polaris' spacer included the hub-centric indexing ridge on the face.

 

It does...I included the link.

I'll be the guinea pig and if I have a problem, I report it. As for now it's fine guys.

 

No offence Polaris, but this is the issue right here as you ay in your quote above......"not sure what you mean"

Your spacers are flat, there is no hubcentric part to them
On mine and unhingd's you can see the raised hub in the centre, probably around 10 mm or so, yes?
This is where the wheels "LOCATE" onto when fitting

On the reverse of this adapter / spacer there is a section bored out, this matches your existing hub and allows it to also "LOCATE" exactly onto the hub centering the wheel.
Yours do not do this, you have fitted the wheel by use of the wheel bolts only, even If they are longer, it makes no difference.
Your wheels are therefore NOT centred on the hub and are held in place only by the wheel bolts, this is a dangerous position to be in and can and often does cause wheel wobble and or other issues

But hey, if you know better than all well n good, I'm only trying to help
Good luck
Jim

 

It doesn't I'm afraid.....there can be on 10mm spacers, not enough meat to play with
You are playing with fire, your safety and others Polaris, just trying to look out for you
Best
Jim

 

Generally 5 turns or one diameter of engagement (whichever is more) should be adequate on any bolts over M5.

There is no hub-centric shoulder on your spacer to mate to the indexing center hole in your wheel. The pics show them to be as flat as pancakes. Your wheel is supported by the bolts rather than the spacer/hub combination. This has both strength and centering implications.

The amount of shaving required (if any) depends on the wheel. Generally the wheel spokes where the stud now poke through are left hollow with the casting mould, allowing the studs to extend beyond the face of the adapter. For the Gyrodynes that I have, I had to grind off 2.5mm off the studs, still leaving 3mm of un-threaded stud exposed.

 

Jim these are hub centric as they center to the hub, not the wheel, you're right, have the groove and can only be mounted one way on hub.

I'm not offended, just want to put the information out there in a responsible fashion. Don't want you to be offended either in that theres a knee-jerk adversity to something I spent a lot of time getting it right.

I do agree that the adapter is the better way to go but this is an option for those not wanting such an aggressive stance.

 

You might want to check that link again because those spacers don't have an indexing ring

 

Hope this helps!
The ones you have ARE NOT HUBCENTRIC

Hubcentric Explained

Wheel spacers are used for a number of reasons, from form to function. For cosmetic reasons, you may want to fit wheels with an offset that isn't designed for your car or simply to help bring the wheel face out to be more in line with the arches. For the function side, wheel spacers are used for increasing wheel clearance for big brake callipers or simply to improve the handling by increasing the track of the car.
Hubcentric wheel spacers are designed to make sure the weight of the car is carried by the hub and not by the studs or bolts. They are machined perfectly on the rear of the wheel spacer to match the locating ring on the hub with the same size locating ring on the front of the spacer. This means that the wheels is truly central to the cars hub, meaning no movement and no vibration through the wheels. A hubcentric wheel spacer also result in far less stress on your bolts or studs.

As you can see in the cross-section diagram of a hubcentric wheel spacer above, the locating ring fits into the space on the wheel exactly as the hub's locating ring would. This means that the weight of the car is still resting on the hub rather than the wheel studs, meaning no vibrations from the wheels.

However, with a non-hubcentric wheel spacer, the weight of the car is no longer on the locating ring and is now on the studs, this will lead to vibrations from the wheels.

 

Thanks!

 

yea, I get it now.

I'll ride em for a while and if I notice anything I'll hit Foosh for some adapters unless you know who had then at discount

 

Nice one, just trying to help buddy
They do say that they are hubcentric in the advert, but then also say that they are a flat spacer........they can't be both, they're either one or the other.

I would advise removing them and replacing with true hubcentric variations as soon as possible for safety reasons, but of course, it's your call


If you're looking for hubcentric try H&R they're very good at what they do, although I doubt you'll be able to get 10mm hubcentrics, probably around 15mm-20mm will be the smallest you can get
Cheers
Jim