Akthough this thread is quite long now, the actual data is a bit thin, here's a recap:

FTYPE V8S
Richv8s (UK) - V8S - Flashed - HAS PROBLEM
ek993 (USA) - V8S - Flashed (K309NAS1) - HAS PROBLEM
UBI - (GERMANY) - V8S - Flashed - NO PROBLEM
RIBOSTIN (UK) - V8S - Refused O2 update but *THINKS* has latest flash - NO PROBLEM

FTYPE R
RAWWR FTYPE R FLASHED K309B - NO PROBLEM

V6/V6S
CAPTAINHAMM, UNHINGED - V6S flashed - NO PROBLEM
MJM3457 - BASE v6 - Replaced 02 sensor - Not sure if flashed - NO PROBLEM

Whatever the problem is, it appears to be restricted to early V8S cars, not Rs and not V6 models. It would be instructive to know the build dates or VIN# of the V8S cars to see if there is a pattern (eg if the later cars are the ones that don't have the problem).

As a one time software developer I know it can be a chore maintaining software for multiple different targets - generally its done by having a master program file (say for all FTYPE V8 models), with slight changes for each variant conditionally compiled / assembled when each variant flash file is built. Its possible that they made an error, (or possibly a hardware change - such as a different brand component/controller somewhere - that is not properly accounted for) when building the flash for ?early? V8S models.

The only way to know for sure would be to gather more data, prob VIN# or car build date and see if a pattern emerges. I'm sure there are more V8S owners on the forum who may not have seen this thread and who may have data to contribute(?) Perhaps a survey?

Question: Is there a way to directly identify the currently installed *ECU* software version from the touchscreen??

 

Happy to share my VIN number - can PM to you if you want to keep a record - not sure I should post it on a public forum.

And that is what I am thinking - some type of component change / supplier between the early and later build cars - and the software revision not taking into account this change.

I work in the technology industry so this absolutely is my wheelhouse - and I know how difficult it is to plan and release software revisions that need to take into consideration potentially differing platforms - even if the changes between the platforms is minor. There are only so many test cases and scenarios that can be run.

 

Perhaps build date will do initally - that way it can stay in thread where everyone can access. Can you access the ECU/PCM software version number from the touchscreen - that would be some hard data also.

 

Any idea how to call up the software revision from the touchscreen? Did a Google search but couldn't find any info

 

There was some talk a while ago about a hidden screen you could bring up on the touchscreen, but I have no memory of how to do it, or what was on it.

 

Ok so phone call today from JLR as far as things at the moment they have no intention on doing anything with my car even though there tec from JLR not the dealership confirmed the fault.
Really not happy and can't wait to get out of JLR cars for good.
Customer care is totally diabolical.
Even though I have it in writing confirming a fault they still won't do anything about it.

 

Just to add a data point - I just checked my service record and my V6S indeed had the K309 update last December and I had no issues whatsoever. I still have incredible audible acrobatics (ie it pops and crackles just as robustly ever). After reading the post I was concerned this might go away at my next servicing, but thankfully K309 is already behind me with no issues. Best of luck to those affected - that sucks royally.

 

My car is still in storage, so I can't check to see if this shows any software versions numbers.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...8/#post1320014

 

No. Have a read of my earlier post https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...3/#post1394928

I don't believe there is anything sinister here, more likely that there is a mechanical or electrical (sensor) issue with the cars, and "re-setting" the ECU by re-flashing it has brought this problem to the fore.

No you cannot see the PCM software calibration ID via the touchscreen, but a cheap $25 OBD2 code reader will be able to read the Cal ID of the PCM if you want to do it yourself. Like an Autel MS309, they can do it.

Has anyone who's car "lost it's pops" been to a dyno or rolling road? Got a power measurement, and a real measurement of the Lambda / AFR at the tailpipes?

Has anyone checked that the valves on the rear muffler are actually opening? (you can manually lock them into the open position with a bit of wire if you want)

Has anyone checked the function of the O2 sensors? (perhaps they are not reading correctly)

How about some general monitoring of key values while driving? (fuel trims, fuel pressure, MAF rates, MAP values)

Has anyone measured the pressure drop across the catalysts? (if they were choked, you would lose the soundtrack).

I would hope that these are things a dealer would do in the process of trying to find out what's going on here. It should not be up to the owner of a vehicle still in warranty to figure out a problem like this. But hey, sometimes you need to take charge...

Everyone is focusing on the software update, but there must be more to it than that, of course it costs time & money to check all these things, a dealer probably doesn't want to put his hand in his pocket.

Or they don't have a competent technician in their workshop with more experience than doing what the computer tells them...

 

Cambo, the car was fine, burbling an popping on the way to my service (its a 25 mile one way trip to my closest dealer). When I picked up the car it was devoid of burbles and pops unless abusing it with aggressive throttle and snap lift off. Other than an oil change the only other thing that happened during the service was the software update. Its possible that there was an underlying mechanical issue or electrical issue, and the software update has triggered that to come to the forefront, although I am doubtful a software update would have triggered some type of failure.

The valves are definitely open - the sound on acceleration is identical as before the service right through the rev range. The only difference to the driving experience is the disappearance of the overrun effects.

 

I had the O2 software update in February 2016. I have a May 2015 delivery 2016 Coupe R (AWD). As a result of the update, my exhaust is stuck in Dynamic Exhaust mode. There is no other visible or perceived effect to Sport or Dynamic settings, it's just that the exhaust is in permanent loud, with all attendant pops, bangs, and crackles. She's in the shop now to see what's wrong.

 

Guys can someone answer this question (asked it earlier in the thread), when your car is in for a service can you tell the dealership not to do the software update.

Cheers

 

You can tell them anything you want. Whether they'll listen to you is another thing.

In my case, I had to remind them to do it.(I wanted it installed before the tune).

 

Thing is logically, you cant just 'skip' an update b/c it might change something you don't like - all future updates will contain the sqame change, so essentially you'd just have to say I'm never going to flash the car again.

(Though I suppose you could 'wait and see' if (say) this particular problem is fixed with another software update).

 

I am considering doing a battery disconnect / reconnect this weekend - a reboot / reload so to speak. Who knows, its worth a try at least.

 

Can't hurt.
What was your build date, btw?

 

You can ask them not to, but it may get to a point where they say you have to flash it in order to maintain the warranty.

 

OK I spoke with my "inside contact" about this. Disconnecting the battery won't do a proper reset, you really need to use the dealers SDD Diagnostic System, there are two steps to make for a full reset.

#1 clear the DTC's, this is a function in a Diagnostic Session

#2 run the "Special Functions: Full Vehicle Reset" routine, this is under the Service Functions tab if I remember correctly.

Could be that the loss of pop/crackle is caused by a DTC being flagged as part of the reflash process.

Also the "Special Functions: Full Vehicle Reset" is a proper Ctrl-Alt-Del type reset which will also clear the volatile memory of all modules, which disconnecting the power won't do.

Go to your dealer and tell them you want these two things done with SDD.

It should solve the problem. The tech at the dealership should know where to find these routines in the SDD.

The "controlled misfire" is still there in the K309 updated tune; the special fuel & spark tables which dump a little extra fuel and fire a sparkplug when the throttle is closed and exhaust valves (the ones in the cylinder head) are open. Nothing changed in that part of the file. But there could be a DTC flagged which is making the ECU take another tune or map as a failsafe precaution. This has happened before. There are several different tunes in the ECU, and it will revert to a "safer" version tune if certain conditions are present, i.e. a DTC, or a sensor reading out of spec. This is without a Check Engine Light being lit btw.

For example, if you disconnect both MAF sensors from your engine, it still runs, and makes pretty good power, the ECU switches to another tune which uses the MAP sensors instead of the MAF sensors to determine engine load.

It's most likely a similar thing here, but caused by a DTC or some glitch which occurred during the software upload to the car. Not necessarily a sensor issue.

Clearing DTC's and running the Vehicle Reset routine should clear it and get it back to normal. If it doesn't then i am all out of ideas and have used up all my favours with my contact...

 

This is fantastic information, thanks for investing time trying to help us out with this issue. It sounds very logical and hopefully will lead to a resolution.

Now all I have to do is convince the dealer to take this course of action. Will talk to them today. I know main dealers don't like to take instructions from their customers on how to diagnose issues, and have a "playbook" of diagnosis steps they run through.

Will provide further updates.

 

First time I tried, I didn't have much sound. Not sure if it matters, but I didn't switch on dynamic until after I put it into drive, then sport, then dynamic.

Tried again this morning after the gym, and while the car was still in park, I switched on dynamic, then once in drive sport, and it definitely woke people up (I go to the gym at 3:00am!). However, I agree with Larry above, that I needed a little more mphs than 10mph (more like 15-20mph) to get the effect.