07 S-type, A couple of days ago, the windows decided to stop working. Today I checked the fuses - all OK. I then tried the Global Closing feature & the windows started to go down (I stopped it at that point) and now they won't go back up. Not with the switches, not with Global Opening. It's getting ready to rain & I feel we are screwed.

I tried disconnecting the battery & discharging the wiring (grounding the now-disconnected positive lead). Hooked it back up & still no window operation, plus now the electric parking brake won't release. I recently replaced the battery, 'cause the old one went bad & I couldn't even get the brake to release then. I don't remember if I had to do something after I installed the new battery. Now I can't even get the car into a garage stall!

Any ideas? This really looks like the nail in the coffin as far as my Jag experience goes, unless I can get this fixed soon.

 

Looks like a flat battery so either bad when bought or not charging up.

It's hard to blame a car in those situations but up to you.

Buying an old car you presumably made sure you could DIY simple stuff or got a warranty - in the latter case just claim.

 

Check the battery voltage and or a load test battery , maybe even give it a charge .
Could have faulty charging sistum , dudd battery
or a parasitic power drain .
Check all these things with a multi meter exept the load test
you will need a load tester

 

With no load, the battery measures 12.7 Volts with the engine off and the battery connected. I didn't have the brake problem until I had disconnected the battery, in an effort to reset any putative "stuck memory" issues with the window operation.

Again, it is rather odd that the Global Open operates the windows & sunroof, but the Global Close only closes the sunroof, not the windows. Same results using the key as well as using the remote. The windows won't operate at all using any of the switches.

The car is not especially old, and now has a whopping 50k miles on it - not very much mileage at all.

The message I get is "Cannot apply park brake". The brake, of course, is applied, so it should read "Cannot release park brake". I have tried the remedy in the manuals of applying the foot brake & pulling up on the park brake lever. I also tried the 5-pump, etc remedy that I found in another thread.

The car was working great a week ago. I now have it on charge, but I doubt that charging an already good testing battery will have any effect.

Even if I eventually free the miserable EPB, I will still have the issue with the windows, which is what started this whole mess.

I will entertain any & all thoughts as to the cause of this problem, as right now I can't even get the car to a repair shop.

 

You can easily power the EPB motor direct if you unplug from the module. That won't address whatever is apparently wrong - maybe bad power/ground.

 

Thanks for the information on the EPB. I just now hooked the battery up (I had disconnected it & put it on charge). Previously, when I developed the EPB problem, I had just disconnected for a few seconds. This time it was disconnected for about 30 minutes. When I started the car up, it now had the message to reset the parking brake. I did and now the EPB works normally once again! (I guess the power had to be off for longer; the battery still reads 12.7 volts, just as it did before.)

I still have no response from any of the window operator switches. Not from the driver's panel, nor from any of the individual door switches. I still get windows & sun roof to open with Global Open, but only the sun roof closes with Global Close. Maybe the door module has gone bad, but I still can't explain why the Global Open continues to work.

I have checked the full power distribution for anything that is controlled by the door module, and everything else that would be affected by a common fuse further up the line still operates (outside mirrors, door locks, etc.).

Has anyone got any further ideas? I wish I had never tried the Global Open, as the car was able to be driven around with the windows closed. Now I can't trust the weather & definitely can't trust the random strangers in a parking lot. I may have to throw countless hundred-dollar bills in the direction of the Jaguar dealership if I can't find a workaround soon. (There are no decent independents around here that do Jags AFAIK.)

I apologize for the long-winded posts on this topic...

 

I'd start with fuses & relays, power & grounds. Consult the workshop manual (free download).

 

It looks like there are no relays in the window circuit, except those that supply power to a number of other circuits, all of which still work. I've checked all of the fuses (even the ones that are common to other, working, devices), and the grounds, except for any grounding that may be hiding inside the door panel. Since the passenger window also is kaput, and it has its own ground, I kinda rule that out.

It also looks like the power has to be present at all points for the global open to work. The window switches on the doors work by grounding the appropriate input to the individual window operators. That basically leaves what looks like a possible "enable" input (common to all of the window operators) that is controlled by the door module, via the SCP comm bus.

I wish I knew what conditions need to be met to turn on the enable output, but I suppose that is proprietary. Rats.

I've done electronic & electrical troubleshooting on control systems (and other things) for about 40 years. Usually, though, I have had full access to all documentation relevant to the machine in question. This fumbling in partial darkness is frustrating for me.

 

You're not likely for any car to get more than the entire workshop manual as used by the dealers.

In this case, a free download - now that IS unusual.

I gather you've never had a (control or other) system using any variant of Windows...

 

Yeah, I'm really grateful to the forum members who so generously donated those great resources.

None of the systems I used to work on were burdened by a Win OS. Initial ones used various proprietary software, but the latest systems from a German engineering firm were Linux based. We went from ladder logic to Boolean expressions.

Even at work, I chafed when required to just swap out hardware modules; I wanted to do actual repairs, but at a downtime cost of tens of thousands of dollars per hour, I could see their point.

 

This should help.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...cal-2006on.pdf

 

Thanks for the link. I already had a copy that has helped me eliminate several possibilities.

Since that link has been introduced in this thread, though, I had noticed something this morning in Fig 01.1 that has me baffled.

There is a "transit isolation relay" that is shown as providing a connection between the battery negative terminal and ground. I can't figure out what the purpose of this relay is, as there is also a permanent ground directly from the battery to an adjacent point on the frame. Any ideas?

 

It's the oft-posted unused item in the boot (trunk) that people find. As again oft-posted, ignore it apart from making sure it can't short against anything.

It was for - wait for it - shipping.

 

I found the various threads on that relay. Thanks for pointing me to it. I'm guessing that the grounding strap is not installed until it reaches the dealer showroom. I also guess that the input to the disposable relay is an XOR logic input. Since I will be taking the car into the dealership (sad face), I may try to talk them into giving me one of those relays to play with.

(The drawing posted in the earlier threads shows the relay attached to the positive terminal - must be a different model, as the electrical diagrams for the S-type show it attached to the negative.)

 

Open your driver's door and fondle the wiring loom while trying to run the windows up from the switchpak. You likely have a broken wire right at the door jamb bulkhead. I'll dig out my post on it and edit back a link. I had intermittent operation for a few days, then global-only, then naught. Even after the wire breaks, it is a tight space in that loom, and occasionally, you get lucky and the broken ends brush up against one another...

I reread the following post when obtaining the link. I need to ammend my statement above. "You DO have a broken wire," rather than "you likely have.."

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...allenge-98225/

If you are not ready to effect this repair....you may be able to "fake it" by running a jumper wire to the connector/pin assy referenced and providing it with +B voltage to get all the windows up. But I'm not sure about that...proceed at your own risk.

 

Does your sliding roof work? On fig 14.1 you will see a driver door latch assembly and driver door control module that is where I would be looking first. Check the grounds then your control leads. Not sure how the center console switch pack and rear electrical module fall into this but would work your way to them.

 

Zane:
Thanks for the reply and the link to the painfully detailed story of your own adventure. I now have hope that I can, after all, fix this myself. I will start today (if the rain lets me - we are getting storms from that storm out on the coast, with some of that Texas mess coming this weekend). I will look at the wiring diagrams once again to see how just one door wire could affect the rest of the car's windows. My symptoms are almost identical to what you experienced.

Gus:
The roof works fine by itself, and is the only opening that closes on the Global Close. (The windows & roof all open on Global Open, but only the roof closes on the Global Close command.)

All:
I have always hated trying to remove inner door panels on any vehicle, but if it will effect a repair, well, I'm in!

 

Joe, the S-Type door panels are (surprisingly) not all that bad. You may need 2 or three replacement Christmas tree fasteners so if you are waiting on weather, may as well search out the p/n and get a few on order. Several online sources or the dealer. They are kind of special, doubt you can walk into O'Reilly's and buy them off the rack.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would bet your windows don't work at all, either global open or close. Yes, they went down and appear to work with global open, but you can't get them back up, so you don't know if they still work with global open or not. It's been 3 years and become a bit foggy, but I don't believe there is anything in the wiring that would account for the windows working for global open but not for global close. Biggest problem with global close is that most USA cars are not configured to accomplish it from the FOB, only global open, for some reason. Then the keyhole gets all chaste from lack of use to the point the key cannot even achieve full penetration, let alone any twisting action!

 

Thanks for the encouraging words on the door panel issue.

I didn't allow the windows to go down fully during the global open using the door lock; I stopped it then tried to close them (using door lock & fob) with no luck. A subsequent trial of GO now using the fob caused them to go down some more before I let off; again, no GC operation. With each attempt the roof opened & closed normally. Reading your old post, it seems as though you had the same problem (eventually: it looks like you experienced a cascade of slow failures).

This car is low mileage & was garage kept - that might explain why the key in the door works very smoothly. Well, maybe today will be dry & the cat won't keep trying to crawl in through the open windows (nice scratching posts in there - grrr...).

It just occurred to me: With Global Open/Close, should the operation continue even if you let off on the fob button; my open action ceased as soon as I let off of the button/door lock? I'd never used the GO/GC function before.

 

Thanks for the clarification. Then it may well be that in my case, the global open continued to work....but I zipped all four windows all the way down and that's where they stayed...til I fixed the wire. Regarding your question, I'm not sure...I believe the operation stops when you release the key, though....in other words, yours is normal. Can't check it out for you as I'm out of town away from any of my S-Types for another week.