ok so i posted a few weeks ago about this topic. got a few helpful tips and a few snotty responses. in the end, heres what i can give back to anyone who read my original thread about changing the gasket cause they wanna save money and do it themselves. it is possible but read closely, and determine for your self what way you wanna go.


JAGUAR X-TYPE OIL PAN GASKET REPLACEMENT

While car is parked open hood and remove the following:

BATTERY AND BOX

open the battery box and remove the cover
remove battery holder bracket and nuts
hold the bolts for the bracket and pop away from battery box (pull straight away from battery box)
then slide them down, and out away from battery box
remove terminal wires, take out battery
unclip battery box sensor located on the back side of box in middle
remove the box by lifting up (be cautious of breather hose from stock battery. it is fed through the box underneath in two spots and goes up the outside the box nearest the water pump belt. this has to come out before the box. to do this slide breather hose down from the side first with a thin Philips head screwdriver. then feed it through the two bottom holes. box comes right out)

AIR FILTER AND BOX

remove air filter
unclip hose clamp from manifold to air intake tube (the bendy rubber part)
unclip maf sensor on side of air intake tube
remove top of air box, intake tube and maf as one unit
remove the two screws inside of air box
remove the two screws outside of air box that screw into the valve covers
remove the screw holding the charcoal filter to air box
holding the sides of r box lift straight up gently, you will feel a pop. this is a holder on the bottom of the air box that presses into a grommet. just pops in and out, to center the air box and better hold it
once popped out of grommet it slides straight up and off of air inlet tubes (the ones that stick out in front of radiator) this is a little tricky but its simple

TIRES

loosen lug nuts then jack up car
remove tires

RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET

remove access cover from both sides of inner wheel wells
Remove radiator splash shield (big black piece across whole front end)
drain coolant (drain plug on lower hose connector)
remove lower hose passenger side (remove clip and wiggle plastic piece away from holder)
remove upper hose to T style connector (top of thermostat housing) right side
remove hose from other side of T connector (remove the bolt from hose to wire harness bracket. remove clip and wiggle plastic away from holder)
remove aluminum hose to thermostat housing (starts next to oil filter, goes up to the T connecter and connects below thermostat housing)
remove the four bolts on each side of radiator support bracket (they are up above the bumper but three can be removed with socket and 8” extension, and get the fourth with a ratchet and deep socket with no extension on both sides)
remove black metal plate above air inlet tube (two screw connect to the air inlet tube)
remove inlet tube now that radiator can be slightly lowered without support bracket

COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY

underneath air box is a wiring harness bracket(it has that rubber grommet for the air box attached to it). its held on by two small nuts, remove them
remove the wiring harness from the plastic clips that are underneath the air intake tube and are now exposed
DON’T remove the clips from the bracket
reposition the whole bracket with wires attached on top of the valve cover(be careful, its not gonna go far, hook it on the screw that’s sticking up on the valve cover
disconnect the two wiring clips for the cooling fan located on drivers side of radiator in the module for fan
the cooling fan is held on by four holders on the radiator. to remove fan, lift up and slide out of all four connectors, move assembly towards motor and gently slide down and out of car through the underneath.
TAKE CAUTION!!!!!!! it is a very tight squeeze!! failure to use caution will ruin your radiator!!!
to prevent damage: slide a thin piece of cardboard between radiator and cooling fan assembly when removing the assembly, this will keep it from flattening you radiator ribs or punching a hole through it

OIL

drain oil, replace drain plug
remove oil filter

EXHAUST

directly after the exhaust manifolds on each side is a catalytic converter, coming off of that is a down tube, where the left side(front of car) meets the right side down tube. this 2-1 pipe connects to a flexible pipe that’s welded to the front muffler.
left side
start by removing the 2 nuts from where left down tube meets the right down tube
then remove the 2 bolts from the left catalytic converter to the bracket that is attached to the back of the oil pan(leave the bracket connected to the catalytic converter alone, the screw is probably rusted and might strip out if you try to remove)
remove the three bolts from the left catalyst heat shield. move heat shield forward s best as possible.
there are two 02 sensors, one on top sticking through the heat shield, and one on the lower side near the bracket. take the one out near the bracket, and unclip the one on top from underneath the battery box
remove the three bolts that hold catalyst to exhaust manifold(careful they strip out easy. it is best to use a socket with a star pattern the reverse of a torx bit on the top of the bolts and NOT remove the nuts. the bolts are secured into the catalyst and slide through the manifold then get the nuts put on)
remove left hand catalyst and down tube as one unit, as well as left heat shield)
right side
remove two nuts holding flexible muffler pipe to the right side down tube(Careful, rusted exhaust bolts like to snap off rather than unscrew)
looking at right side down tube from through wheel well, remove the bolt holding the heat shield it will be directly in front of right down tube, holding the heat shield to the cars sub-frame. this alows you to kinda bend it away
while its bent remove the nut from the right down tube clamp(it holds down tube to the catalyst) the bolt is directly behind the exhaust tube, kinda tricky to get. i had to cut the bolt down to get a short socket on it, and then it snapped anyway, so i fabricated a stainless one for reinstallation w/new bolt and nut
remove right hand down tube

BRACKETS / OTHER

looking at the engine oil pan you will see two brackets that will need to come off
start with the one holding the transfer case air scoop. it has to small bolts underneath the main shaft of the transfer case, remove them. then there is one bolt holding it to the oil pan, remove this.
remove bracket
the other bracket was attached to the left hand catalyst to get this one off you need to remove the oil pan to transmission retaining bolts. there is one on each side, remove them.
then you will see that one of the bolts holding transmission together holds bracket in place. CRACK this bolt loose about a 1/4 turn. DO NOT remove it. loosen enough to pivot bracket up and retighten with fingers. this will hold bracket out of the way.
remove the little black cover in the middle of the oil pan (drivers side) to access two of the bolts
remove the accessory drive belt. breaker bar works best. go in through the wheel well and pull down
if you don’t have a breaker bar, use a thin 3/8” drive ratchet set in reverse and slide a 12” length of metal pipe over it
remove two bottom bolts of A/C pump that connect to oil pan
loosen, DO NOT REMOVE the two upper bolts for the ac pump (these are bolted to a bracket for the generator and almost impossible to get back in)
slide A/C pump forward about an inch

if you take a close look at what’s in front of you now, you have clear access to 14 of the 15 bolts for the oil pan. you now have two choices, follow the rules of the hand books and manuals and proceed to drop the following: axles, left and right wheel knuckles, half shafts, steering gear bar, drive shaft, more of the exhaust, intake manifold, right hand catalyst, suspension, SUB-FRAME and other parts, just so you can take out the transfer case to get the last bolt of the oil pan out. OR....you can do what i did using tips from others to get the bolt out, and drill a hole in the casting of the transfer case mount, just enough to get a socket in there, and get the bolt out with out taking above mentioned items off.

ATTENTION: DOING THE FOLLOWING WILL VOID ANY SORT OF WARRANTY YOU HAVE THROUGH JAGUAR OR THROUGH OTHER DEALERSHIP

JAGUAR DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, AND NEVER WILL



the reason i did this is this, i have no warranty on my car, and i have a loan on it, so oil leaking from a gasket is not cool. i don’t feel like having my motor seize, and have to make payments on a car i cant drive. i know this was risky but i figured i have to give it a shot, worst case i would mess up my transfer case. rather than engine. if you have any sort of problem with doing this please i beg of you do not read on. i do not condone this on anyone but if it is your last (and pretty much only) resort, as it was mine, here is what i did i hope it might help some people.

OIL PAN

you will need: 3/4” hole saw with an adapter that also holds a 3/8” drill bit(for added accuracy with the pilot hoe drill bit)
a good low torque power drill
safety goggles
bright light
the first thing i did was flipped my new gasket upside down and traced the corner closest to the driver on to card board(the bolt you cant reach, and the ones nearest it). i then punched out holes where the bolts were. using this as a guide i held it to the bottom of my oil pan and centered the two bolts i could see, and marked on the transfer case mount where the bolt is-directly above in relevance that you cant see.
remove the transfer case bolt from the mount you are about drill through, it will be set back in later.
wear safety goggles when drilling.
drill slowly, keeping great tension on the drill.
ALUMINUM CRACKS EASILY, go slow. focus on getting it drilled straight and in line with bolt.
keep in mind: if you don’t drill straight on, you may not be able to get the bolt back in.
look from all angles before drilling. you only get one chance at this, take your time and do it right. if you get it good, you will still have material on the front side of mount, and not puncture through transfer case side wall and spill its oil out; ruining it.
once this is done vacuum up metal shavings, they fly everywhere(hence the safety goggles)
if you did it right, congratulations, you now have access to all 15 oil pan bolts
remove the bolts from oil pan
right next to where you drilled you will see a slot in the casting on the oil pan that goes around the mount you just drilled through. use a screwdriver under there and pry oil pan loose.
DO NOT STICK ANYTHING BETWEEN OIL PAN AND BLOCK MATING SURFACES AND PRY.
THIS WILL DAMAGE MATING SURFACES!!!!
carefully lower the oil pan, which is a little tricky, because so many other things were skipped, but very possible
the rest is simple, clean off any old gasket material, and remove old metal gasket
use a brand new oil pan gasket, the metal kind with the rubber inlay for best results
i used ultra gray gasket sealer for transmissions, it is sensor safe, higher oil resistance and is designed for high torque applications, as the x-type is 10.5-1 compression ratio.
getting the pan back on is a little tricky but before you glue it all up, give it a few dry test runs and see how to rotate pan to get it to seat right, makes it a little easier.
once all back together, new gasket and sealer, all bolts are in and torque them down (25 NM by the way) install the transfer case bolt you took out

install everything in reverse of removal; and you have fresh oil pan gasket at your hose for a cheap price.

my cost:

parts:
oil and filter $30 castrol syntec 5w-30 mobile1 filter
oil pan gasket $ 35 shipped partsgeek.com
gasket sealer $8 ultra gray
radiator fluid $15 dex-cool
bolts/nuts $20 (mostly exhaust bolts that broke, and one oil pan bolt)
drill bits $35
tools $100 (i had to stock up on a bunch of stuff anyway)

total: $242 not bad, i spent more than this but i didn’t list personal costs like 20 bucks to fill the propane tank for my heater, 5 bucks for my new shop light etc...

any way you can reuse fluid if you want, its your choice, i went with new.
with out buying any tools that’s that more saved money

hope this helps someone cause it saved me hundreds of dollars on labor charges. good luck to all and please remember, i am here for help and support from other x owners, and hope to help someone else out. i dont wish to offend any one with this, so if it angers you i apologize in advance, but to my testament i told you not to read on....




STEVIS05

 

Not bad Stevo, but you the only thing you have to remove under the hood it the oil cap to refill when youre done, and on the bottom you only have to remove the black bracket on the back of the pan and the exhaust pipe from the front cat if youre doing the cut n paste method. Oh and no matter which wat you do it if the grind off the little rectangular nub on the back coner of the pan by that unobtanium bolt the pan goes back in much easier too

 

I have a 2004 x that also had a slow oil leak on the pan, I got under the car and tighten the oil pan bolts and the leak stopped. They were not loose but I could tighten them a little. I got lucky..../clayton

 

Thats to much work . The only thing i undo under the hood when im doing an oil pan gasket is the oil cap. Its a good mortgage paying job .

 

STEVIS05
Nice write up
Thanks

 

Steve great write up with added info from bmc as well that I'm sure will be helpful to others in time doing the same job.
The only thing missing was the pics to go with it which as always equals a thousand words.
Thanks guys

 

i have pics of when i did mine but when i tried to add them the system told me they are too large. i can email them to anyone who could post them here let me know

 

Here's a free program you can use to resize photos:

http://www.irfanview.com/

Used by me and many friends without incident, ymmv

 

Hey Steve, you can use photobucket and resize / play around with them there.
I hope you do and look forward to seeing your pics within your post at some point......All the best

 

No need to drill transfer case because of that oil pan bolt. I saw handmade "special tool" at local Jag service. You have to cut the ring "head" part of an M13 key and create a strong, curved neck. It will looks like a small mine finder. You can play out that bolt with this tool and with some luck. (I'm not english, but I hope you understand how this tool looks like, and it will help you)

 

This is interesting thing to know, could you draw a picture or something to give some idea what you are talking about, thanks in advance... I have this issue to work out.

 

Looks like this schematics:



http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/113332...16116299832370

because or new neck curve, you cannot apply too many torque on nut, but Jag mechanics said it works in lot case. I saw only the tool (at Jaguar), I haven't use yet. I have to repair my transfer case nowdays, so I will have space to unscrew that nut .

 

There are several ways to take out that bolt without drilling the t case. A modified craftsman distributor wrench tool from sears. Or a long shank carbide bit in a die grinder to grind off the bolt head. You cut it off, take out the pan and unscrew the remaining piece and install a new smaller head bolt, and shorter

 

Has anyone ever tried to losen the transfer case bolts and rotate the transfer case to gain access to the bolt? Im there now, and I need the best way to do this. It is on a lift, and my mechanic thinks the TC can rotate enough to get the bolt out. Anyone ever do this?

 

I afraid of you don't have enought space to access all the transfer case bolts to rotate. You have to remove brackets around right half shaft first. So at the end it is close to (the time is same) than to remove completly the transfer case. If you can access transfer case bolts, the gearbox gear stub will hold the transfer case and you can rotate it. Don't forget, there is an O ring seal between transfer case and gearbox and you cannot replace that if you don't pull and remove transfer case from gearbox stub.

My opinion is, better not to rotate because of that seal, but I'm not a car mechanic.

 

not true, no one i know removes the tcase, we've all made special tools to only rotate the t case and get out that back corner bolt as i listed in my above post. Its alot more work to pull the case, and you end up with issue of axles that wont come out of the case, broken clips that drop inside, and yes that seal that wasnt leaking before, but now that you replaced it and nicked it on install, it does now. You have to take apart the right front suspension to pull the axle too, another issue just asking for more problems, especially on older salt encrusted xtypes

 

not on a Xtype its not....its pays 9 hours and there are only 3 short cuts