@Thermo and everyone else; Hi, I have a couple quick questions. I have got someone to finnaly program the ecm but... what he told me was, he took both the old and new-used ecms and
said he has to copy the imborizer and some other data. I said ok gave it to him and 2 days after he came by passed both of the ecms back to me and said he has to finsh the rest of the programing in the car.
He didnt show up when he told me would and I havent heard back from since. I know that he did some of the programing beaucse now I have the alram go off using the key fob before I could not. Question is:

1. the car still wont crank; the lights and everthing come up, battery is full charged, when I turn the key the radio turns off and I have to take the key out to make it work again
if I have a charger hooked up to it and have it on jump mode then its fine but still no crank.
2. what is the other part he has to program?
3. is there anything I can do? he hasent respond and its been a week.

 

@Thermo and everyone else, here is a video of the battery hooked up to a charger I have it in jump mode since the battery keeps draining when I turn the key so the lights turn on. the second video shows the keys working. the car still won't start tho. also there is the red light on near the gearshifters. seems to be smt to do with the alarm system.

 

HELP, you are beyond what I have done. So, I am not going to be of much help at this point other than providing encouragement.

As for the red light by the gear shifter, if that lights, that is saying that the car has detected a key being used that is not programmed to the car and that is causing the engine to not crank. I do not know all the data that needs to be put into the ECM, but I do know that you need the numbers from the keyfobs installed so the computers can see the keyfobs and compare the two.

 

ohok.... any idea how the keys locks and unlcoks the car though?

 

@Thermo and everyone else do you know if this would work? https://eurocartool.com/download-and...guar-sdd-free/

 

@Thermo and everyone else; I just realized that I cant program it myself either.... I finnaly got my hands on a obd2 scanner and it wont connect to the ecm the key is on the 1 position with the lights on and stuff
it says connection failed or smt and I keep tring to re connect but it wont. I am not even sure what to do anymore.

@h2o2steam would you have any ideas?

 

HELP, to get what you need to move forward, you would need to get the SSD software and then a Mongroose Pro cable (for a Jaguar) and then get in and add the necessary information. I am sure there is someone here that could help you out, but I am not sure who that would be. This is where you would have to get into the SSD software, see what it is needing and finding that information. Most of it should be data that you can gather from just looking (ie, VIN number, key code that is written inside the key as I recall, etc). This is where you are going to need to spend some money to get something that works. Going cheap is going to cost you more in the end.

 

@Thermo, how would I program it though? when I connect my obd2 scanner and I can't read it. if I connect the mongoose will it connect? also insted of getting the mongoose cable for 700 on Amazon could I get this,
the sdd jrl version I can get for free is 1.60 or smt like that

 

HELP, that is where I previously said that you are getting into things that I have not done and have no experience with. As for the cable, that should work. But, you can find the mongoose cables on E-bay for around n$100.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam Hi, quick question. Any Idea why my scanner is not reading the used ecm? I did also hook up my old ecm with the blowen mosfet and it still doesnt read it.

@h2o2steam in the last post where we were checking what was wrong, I asked how the ecm had fired, could it be possible the ecm fired beacuse the two red and green wires that connect to the TB both of them touched the battery on the possitive terminal?

 

HELP, the most likely thing would be that the fuse that powers the OBD port has blown and you do not have power to drive the reader. After that, I would be looking at the wiring and making sure you got an equivalent ECM and that you don't have one that has a different pin out

 

I tested out the 2 fuses f25 and f32 and there both fine. and the pinout should not be a issue since this same scanner had worked before.

 

I have had scanners before that worked one day and didn't the next. If they are not really good chips (such as in Chinese clones) they only last a short time. I would've tried a high quality alternative scanner by now.

 

it's high quality one, its not for programing its the one that reads dtcs

 

anyone had this issue? the person finally came to program the ecm after a week, and he couldnt do it. there was no connection to the ecm using the obd2 port.
any idea why? before the port was working fine even when the ecm wasnt. I checked the fuses there all good, the person also hooked up a battery charger and still nothing.
no Idea what is happening and why its not working.
@Thermo @h2o2steam any idea

 

HELP, I need to double check my drawings to confirm this as I am going off of memory here, but are you running a 32 bit ECM or a 64 bit ECM? If you look on the ECMs, you should see a number similar to "4x43-12345-BA". The 12345 is the part number. The BA is the revision of the program inside the ECM. The 4x43 is telling me the car that it came from. The X-Types have 2 numbers associated to them, 1X43 and 4X43. The 4X43 is normally associated wtih the later build cars and accounts for the minor wiring changes that were done over the years. So, if you say had a 4X43 ECM in your car and the new ECM you put in was a 1X43, you could very well have a wiring issue that the information wires are not going to the correct spots for the ECM. I would start there and then see what you have and start eliminating potentials from there. Kinda like, I would try to get an ECM that has a version as close as possible to the one I pulled out of my car. This is going to minimize the chance of having a problem with wiring or the like.

 

@Thermo not sure what bit the ecm is but they are the same, same numbers and everthing. here is a picture. the first on thats in the car is the old ecm ,but with the new board, and the second one is the one I got with the ecm that stopped working.

 

@Thermo this is like the only one I found with the same numbers on it and everthing, there were a couple too but those where tooooo expensive

 

Does the OBDII port have 12VDC to pin 16? Ground is on pins 4 and 5. They need to be good too.
That's what powers ALL codes readers plugged into the port. Not common but it has been reported before.
.
.
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alright guys so UPDATE: I got a connection with the ecm but I have to have the ecm on top of the right shocker. if I have it moved and bent towrads the intake mainifold it does not read it. also when I can read it it makes clicking noise and I also here the TB motor working

so going with that, I taped the ecm just incase it does not get wet, and then I hooked it back up where it should be, then for the ecm plug, since I had to back probe it when testing I had taken out the case that covers it, I installed it back on ( was NOT easy) the bolt that screws into the ecm is striped from like the plce where the 5 bit screw goes. I was using a bolt extracter to connect it when I had the wire case off, I can still use the screw but it keeps jumping/slipping, I manged to get it screwed in anyways and I hooked my scanner up battery is connected with jumper pack, and I turn the key, there is no clicks and I cant read the ecm anymore. So now I am not sure what wire it is thats lossing the single, also is there away to get the old bolt off, and change it with like a phillips screw? ( the one in the middle of the ecm plug harness)
@Thermo any ideas?