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Help, from the sounds of things, you eiher have a broken wire in a harness that when you bend it one way, the wire makes contact, but you go the other way and the wire will not make contact. Or, option 2 is the plugs are not seating correctly and you just happen to make contact when it out of its mount and not make contact with it in its mount. This is going to be one of those things that very detailed inspection of the wiring is going to be needed.
Help, from the sounds of things, you eiher have a broken wire in a harness that when you bend it one way, the wire makes contact, but you go the other way and the wire will not make contact. Or, option 2 is the plugs are not seating correctly and you just happen to make contact when it out of its mount and not make contact with it in its mount. This is going to be one of those things that very detailed inspection of the wiring is going to be needed.
@Thermo yeh it is a wiring thing when I have some wires moved around it works and then when I dont it does not but its very hard to tell which on it is thats causing the issue. also do you know how to take out the bolt the screws into the ecm thats in the wire harness? its got some type of crown washer and I cant mange to break it or pry the tabs.
HELP, I beleive that bolt is a pentatorx bit (5 point star). The bolt is retained in the plug. Why are you needing to remove the bolt from the plug? YOu loosen the bolt and the plug should come out.
Usually the ECM is held in with a security Torx. This has a pin in the center preventing you from using a regular Torx wrench. But they are cheap and readily available. I have set and it was around $10?
Might get a set?
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UPDATE: so the connection issue is a wire and its the pin 23 WG, it has a loose connection, so I manged to take off the whole plastic case, which exposes all the wires, and seen in the pictures below
the pins are not even, so I got all the pins evened out and then went to put it back together. this is where the issue starts, there is a white plastic housing that separtes the pins, it has 3 tabs one on the top
and 2 on the bottom. there are 2 of them for each side of the pins one of the side the bottom parts broke off when taking it out. the other one is good but now I cant get it to fit back into the housing.
You can remove the center bolt and I did replacing it with a normal Torx after I screwed up the security one! I just could not get a decent look at the bolt and I had the security bits but simply did not know that was what was needed until it was too late.
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You can remove the center bolt and I did replacing it with a normal Torx after I screwed up the security one! I just could not get a decent look at the bolt and I had the security bits but simply did not know that was what was needed until it was too late.
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yeah thats what i am planing to do but first i need to get it back into the connector housing. @Thermo any idea
with a used ecm you just run immobilization in IDS and it will start. then go read up on VID block and figure out how you'll get the original one back in
with a used ecm you just run immobilization in IDS and it will start. then go read up on VID block and figure out how you'll get the original one back in
huh? my ecm was fired I ordered a new used one.... I taking about of to get the pins back into the 2 picture the plastic housing, there is no communication cuase of a wire which i am fixing rn.
Help, I have never torn a connector like that apart. The best advice that I can give you is to line up all the pins with their respective holes and then wiggle the white plastic piece back and forth as you slowly push it back into place. Not the fastest way, but it should allow everything to line back up and get it so you can insert the plug.
UPDATE on my car
It still don't work
I have solved the connection issue that was happening before so now any scanner can read the ecm
The person I hv been waiting for finally came and took both the ecms again and he swapped or copied data from the old ecm chip to the new one
The new ecm I have now connected to the car does have the VIN number of the car confirmed using a scanner the key fob can unlock and lock
the car, the inside lights, radio all work. But when I try to start the car the radio goes blank for a couple seconds, no crank no start ,
radio comes back on. battery is new and good, I cleared all the codes I had and tried to start it, got 3 new ones
P1000
P1240
P1104
This car has not been running for almost 7 months now ((
almost 1yr since I bought the car so I can learn off of, but being a jaguar it cost so much money
I REALLY want to fix this issue ASAP, otherwise due to payments and everything I will have to scrap the car
WHICH I DONT WANT TO DO AT ALLL!!! (((((((((((((((
@JagV8
yeah I have the ALLDATA program and this is what it shows me
A : DTC P1240
G92527t1 : CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL DEMAND SENSOR
1. TURN the ignition switch to the RUN position.
2. Measure the voltage between electrical connector PA1-5 and ground.
3. Measure the voltage between electrical connector PA1-4 and ground.
- Is the voltage less than 4.5 volts?
-> Yes
-> No
DIAGNOSE the electronic engine control system.
G92527t2 : CHECK CONTINUITY OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL DEMAND SENSOR POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the ECM electrical connector EN16 and the accelerator pedal electrical connector PA1.
3. Measure the resistance between EN16-13 and PA1-5.
4. Measure the resistance between EN16-12 and PA1-4.
- Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
-> Yes
-> No
REPAIR the power supply circuit from the ECM to the accelerator pedal. CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.
G92527t3 : CHECK THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL DEMAND SENSOR POWER SUPPLY FOR A SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
1. Measure the resistance between PA1-5 and ground.
2. Measure the resistance between PA1-4 and ground.
- Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
-> Yes
DIAGNOSE the electronic engine control system.
-> No
REPAIR the power supply circuit from the ECM to the accelerator pedal. CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation.
The thing is on my old ecm there is a capacitor that blew and I am not sure why it blew up. let me find a picture one sec
HELP, humor me and open the hood/bonnet of your car and disconnect the MAF sensor for the car. Now, attempt to start the car. See if your indications change. I have a feeling that they are and with some luck, it should allow your car to start. WIth the 2 error codes that you are showing, one is saying that the 5 VDC reference signal is not present and the other is saying that your MAF sensor is grounded. Since the first supplies voltage to the MAF sensor, it is very possible that your MAF sensor is failed and causing none of the affected sensor to be seen. this is causing the ECM To not want to run the engine.
HELP, humor me and open the hood/bonnet of your car and disconnect the MAF sensor for the car. Now, attempt to start the car. See if your indications change. I have a feeling that they are and with some luck, it should allow your car to start. WIth the 2 error codes that you are showing, one is saying that the 5 VDC reference signal is not present and the other is saying that your MAF sensor is grounded. Since the first supplies voltage to the MAF sensor, it is very possible that your MAF sensor is failed and causing none of the affected sensor to be seen. this is causing the ECM To not want to run the engine.
okay I will do this and update you on what happens
thanks
HELP, humor me and open the hood/bonnet of your car and disconnect the MAF sensor for the car. Now, attempt to start the car. See if your indications change. I have a feeling that they are and with some luck, it should allow your car to start. With the 2 error codes that you are showing, one is saying that the 5 VDC reference signal is not present and the other is saying that your MAF sensor is grounded. Since the first supplies voltage to the MAF sensor, it is very possible that your MAF sensor is failed and causing none of the affected sensor to be seen. this is causing the ECM To not want to run the engine.
@Thermo so I tried it unplug the MAF sensor and it still didn't work it shows a safety failed error and there still isn't any crank when I turn the key
