HELP, like others have said, the 5V reference voltage on your IP sensor should be right around 5.0 VDC. You kinda proved that with the MAF sensor check you did. So, that is telling me that your ECM is good (atleast for the reference voltage). So, this is then leading to a wiring problem somewhere between your IP sensor and most likely the point where that yellow/green wire meets all the orange/yellow wires. Unfortunately, this means undoing a lot of the wrapping that is on the wiring for the IP sensor and following it back to that common joint. Somewhere along there, you will most likely run into a spot where the insulation is damaged. That will be your smoking gun. If you can look at this entire wire and see no insulation damage, then you want to hold up as much of the wiring as you can and give it a gentle bend. If the wiring kinks, that kink is where the wire is broke. You may have to bend the wire in multiple places to test the whole length. If you cannot find any damage to the wire with these 2 checks, then let me know and we will have to come up with a different check.

 

Hi @Thermo they wiring is under alot of things and goes down to the engine and I don't have a host to lift the car up enough to take a look jacks won't lift it enough. What other test is there we could try? Before I tackle this and what @dh53 Was saying. Is there a way to feed the IP sensor 5v from some other sensor? Just to see if that helps the car run in any way. If it's the fuel tank pressure sensor and we give 5v at IP sensor would it go to the Fuel Tank pressure sensor as well or not? I am going to be talking a look at the MAP very soon in like 20mins right after I get my raditor on my other car.

 

@Thermo @dh53

so I tested my connecters expect for the AC and the FTP

I have the same volts all around the sensors around ~0.21-0.35v

I changed my mutilmeter to contunity and hooked it up with the IP, MAP, APP sensor I got nothing for those 3 so not short to ground ig
I did change my dial to read 2000 omhs and i was reading around 980 for the MAP and IP sensor.

phone was dead so could not make video. so with that what should my next step be? taking out the Fuel tank?

 

HELP, what you want to get your hands on is a signal tracer (see RJ11 RJ45 Cat5 Cat6 Telephone Wire Tracker Tracer Toner Ethernet LAN Network | eBay) You then take the large body with the adapter to go to dual alligator clips and you would use the lead idea you are now and simply click the red lead to your lead. You then take the wand and start going from sensor to sensor. You just need to get within an inch or so of the wire and the wand should start sounding. You can then figure out which sensors have continuity to the one where you are injecting the signal and which ones don't. You can then use your drawing and get an idea of where the break is. At that point, you simply start running the wand along the wiring and at some point you should loose the signal. A few inches form where you lost the signal is where your problem lies. Odds are, it will be fairly obvious. If this doesn't make a lot of sense, there are some youtube videos on how to use the tracer. Check out: . This will minimize how much you have to tear apart and this will be helpful to determine wiring at say the ECM as you do not have to necessarily disconnect stuff to go "I have continuity from here to there". Just have to get on some bare wires/terminals and then get the wand near the wiring at the other end and if needed, points in between.

 

​​Hmmm would there be another way without the tool? Since I have no power does this mean it's being shorted or it has a open? Is there a way to use a mutilmeter to figure this out? Also @dh53 was saying that the MAF sensor uses a differnt 5v reference from ecm then the one I am testing? So would that mean that the ecm is not putting out 5v? On that pin?

 

The signal tracer is a special tool. Once you use it, you will find uses for it. A multimeter will just tell you that Point A and Point B are in connection or not with each other. Where, the cable tester, if you follow the line, willl tell you exactly where the break is. This will make repairing tons easier.

You could take and connect 1 lead of the multimeter to the 5V reference line coming out of the ECM, you would then take the other lead and check for continuity between all the sensors that this one line feeds. What you will probably find is that 1 or 2 of the sensors are going to have continuity and the others will not. From there, you have to hand over hand the wiring between those 2 sensors to figure out where you break is. If you have continuity on all the sensors, then your problem is in the ECM. If you have no continuity to any sensor, then odds are, the break is close to the ECM plug and you need to look at that closely.

 

@Thermo @dh53

I went straight to the ecm pin 12 and found out that it was not connected properly. Like the pin was pushed down, so I fixed it got it back and now I have fuel, but it's not running right. Here is a video with more info and how it is running
Also I think maybe when i was fixing the pin 12 wire on ecm the pin that goes to the p0010 cel code connector might hv messed up so I am dobble check that but could you still tell me other things to check on why this is happening, if the pin is fine

I did do a tb relearn but idk if it worked or not

 

@Thermo @dh53

I was right it was the ecm pin 109 it was not making any contact with the ecm, fixed that pin but putting it back in its case was a pain in the *** and I ended up breaking the female adapter I fixed last time 🫤 easy fix but now I won't know if it was that pin causing it. Quick question tho yk in the video the tb opens and closes with my foot how come it didn't do that before? And now it also does not open and close? Wait it might hv been that the wire from that to ecm was also not set properly Damm okay well will update you guys tm after I get it fixed.

 

That 5V reference is used for a number of things. Keep in mind that if the ECM is not seeing a signal that is generated by the 5V signal from the foot pedal, it does not know to open the throttlebody. It is possible that when you remade the connector to the ECM, you pushed the pin back in. This is where a simple voltage check on say the MAF sensor for the 5 V will tell you if the pin is making contact or not. The ECM is programmed to fail safe. So, in this case, even if it sees a signal from the foot pedal, if it is not seeing a correct response from the throttle body, it fails it shut. This may be what you are seeing.

 

yeah i feel like it is in fail safe cuase of the wire I will do the check you said and also update you guys after i get the wire fixed later today 😊

 

@Thermo @dh53

Hi sorry guys no update till now was trying to see if I could figure smt out, no luck

I had made couple videos lost them smw so made another 1 video which includes whats happening and my problem I am having right now.

 

@Thermo @dh53

Hi, Update I got the ecm wires in I had to get the connecter crimed and then feed it through the plastic housing first so it can lock in place then the other end of the wire through the ecm wirings case. was a painful couple days getting it done but did get it.

Some weird things happening and there is no CEL like no dtc showing up for it which is werid.

I made 3 differnt videos 1 would be too long

in the videos you can see how the car is acting up, hard to explain.

in the second video ending got cut the weird thing that was happing was just rust on the breaks.

here are the videos, they be long and me just talking but the key is the info ur getting to see cause I cant type up how the car is feeling and looking like yk lol

 

HELP, ok, it is good that you have things running now. I think you have potentially 2 issues still going on, possibly a third. The first one is it looks like your throttle body position sensor (TPS) is going out (hence the jumping that you are seeing). So, you will need to find a new one of those. This should help with the idle issue and should bring the idle back down to where it should be. You can try taking off your TPS (make sure to match mark the TPS before disconnecting) and then using some electronics cleaner, squirt it into the sensor and then using a screw driver, move the sensor through its range. Odds are, this is going to do 1 of 2 things. It will either make it work again or it is going to cause it to fail completely. That is the risk of doing this. But, using the screw driver to move the sensor through its range of motion is key as it will be using the cleaner and the wiper of the sensor to clean things. You will then want to warm up the sensor using say a hair dryer to help push the cleaner out of the sensor so the internals are dry.

The second issue is you talk about a missing vacuum line. Get that installed. I am not sure which one you are specifically talking about, but having all the vacuum lines together is needed to ensure the car is running smoothly. if you have say the vacuum line missing from the fuel rail, this can cause the car to run a little bit rich, which may explain the fuel that you are smelling and potentially the white smoke too. The fuel sensor does adjust the fuel rail pressure to keep a constant 55 psi differential between the fuel pressure and the intake vacuum.

As for the potential third problem, that would be with the tranny. I think the "clunk" that you are getting and the squatting that you are feeling are from the idle being too high. In short, you are trying to "gear drop" the car by taking it from neutral to placing it under a load. This is hard on the tranny and will result in what you are seeing. As for the tranny fault indication, that should be giving you an error code. Granted, if it is like what others see, it is most likely one of the solenoids in the tranny that is getting old and will need to be changed. But, before we start changing solenoids, I want to see an error code. No sense in replacing something because of a guess. Lets get confirmatory information.

 

@Thermo

the TP sensor I don't think is the cause I was driving it pretty fine after the 2 video nothing out the ordinary. Also when I had the p1229 code, I check the TB motor sensors and confirmed they were good.

For the missing vacuum I will find the oart and attach it then see how it runs again but that i am petty sure is just to not let any drit or debits getting in cause it's just a rectangle with a hole that fits in the intake boot.

For the transmission, i think ur right, cuase it doesn't happen when the idle is fine, so ig it's kind of like Neutral droping, the gear is being changed at high rpms and puts to much load on the tranny. For the tranny indicator there is no CEL.

So after looking at this, i feel like its a ecm wire tbh
When test driving I was driving abit fast and there was a pot hole I hit and I feel like that moved the wire. Also one thing I noted is when the ecm wire is not set properly the engine and or tranny light indicator comes up.

I am gonna take the connector out and see if any pins have moved, if so see which one and trace it to where to see the function of it and jow it plays into all this. And if it is any idea on how I could have the wires stay without moving around? The lock broke that hold the wire in place not all but some. I did mange to lock the ones I could but idk we will see if it even locked or not.

 

How did it feel to finally drive that car?

I think you are in for a world of electrical problems if you don't get that ECM connector to seat correctly. Every pot hole could shake a wire or connection loose. I don't like the square-ish pins in place of the factory round ones, as you said it prevents the pins from lining up correctly and the spacing of the male/female halves of the connector isn't great so pins push out. If it was me I would find the exact pins. A junkyard might sell you the ECU connector. Or try eBay, something like this. If that isn't correct contact that seller, they have a bunch of ECU connectors for sale. Having the full connector available might also get you the parts of the connector that lock all the pins in so they don't slide around when you connect and disconnect the ECU. Or search these forums for Dr. Dome and contact him, he parts out X-types so he might have parts for you.

Thermo can probably tell you what else might work for ECU connectors. I know these cars have many common parts with 3.0L Lincolns of the same year. The exact ECU connector might be different but it is likely to have the exact pins inside the connector.

Another option is a Ford "pigtail kit". This is a pin with wire factory crimped or soldered to a small piece of wire. There aren't many available so probably a long shot. Catalog here.

The quick, dirty, and cheap solution might be to use those square pins you have in the 3 locations you need and drill the secondary piece that aligns the pins. Make them slightly oversize just for the 3 holes for those pins. File those 3 pins down so the length is correct and clean any metal filings away with compressed air. With the pins in and aligned you could prevent the pins from pushing out by bonding the wires from the back of that bodyside connector. I would use something viscous and fast setting so it doesn't seep though into the connector pins themselves. Epoxy putty maybe. Or RTV silicone. This would be like burning your boats when you reach shore, very hard to go back if something goes wrong.

 

Help, ok, that triangle piece on the intake, that is nothing more than a silencer for the intake. Put some duct tape or other well sealing tape over the hole for the moment. Your high idle may be because of this hole because it is letting too much air around the mass air flow sensor, so, the car is seeing the engine running lean and therefore is adding more fuel, which will raise the RPMs. It would not necessarily pick it up as a vacuum leak because it is ahead of the throttle body. Worst case, find a large rubber plug and put it in that hole. That will seal well enough to see if what I am saying is the cause. You can then come up with a more longer term solution (ie, getting a new intake to replace that triangle muffler.

As for the wiring issue, the ultimate answer in my book is to find a wrecked X-Type and pull the harness from that. A little bit of work, but I think you will find that it is going to be about the same amount of time to do most repairs. Yes, the new connector with pigtails is a good alternative, but you had better be good at wiring and also have a bunch of sealing shrink tubing on hand. Otherwise, give the car a few years and you will have more electrical issues as those joints start corroding and causing random issues.

 

@Thermo @dh53

THE CAR RUNNNSSSSSS

GOD DAMM AFTER SO LONG

feels so nice, specially with the exhaust off and all.

after adding the missing triangle case and shaking the harness its been running fine since then. I have gone over speed bumps, a alley used for dirt bikes, side roads ( big and bad potholes)
and the car is been fine. I took it today on the highway over to north van and it was fine, Couple things I have noticed the idle of the car its around 500-600 but its going up and down not steady idle if you get what I mean, also the speed does not go to the wheels till the rpm hits around 2k, and then when I floor the car the gear doesnt change till after read-lining the rpms around 6-7ish. I got back home with the car parked up at north van for about 2hrs, ran fine when I got home CEL showed up :/

its showing codes P2096: bank 1 lean & P2099: bank 2 too rich

ik I changed the o2 sensor for one of the banks I think bank 2 closer to the rad but dont remeber.

could it just be cause of the starter spray I been spraying into the car when I was doing the tests and stuff
and or that I have a muffler delete?

 

Deleting the muffler (especially if you deleted either one of the resonators) will cause the back pressure to drop too low and give you all sorts of O2 sensor errors. I would say to install some 50 series mufflers on the car and then see what you have. You are still going to get the louder exhaust and more power, but it is going to help get you back your back pressure to make the O2 sensors work correctly. Also, you will find that having the back pressure is going to help the car launch off the line better as you are going to have more low end torque. Doing a muffler delete is only really good if you are keeping the RPMs up in the 4000+ range all the time. Then, well, you are in a different league and the X-TYpe is not in that league.

As for the car red-lining when you floor the car, DUH. That is how most cars are programmed to shift. The X-Type takes it a bit more to the extreme, especially if you are activating the SPORT button. (which it sounds like you are based on how you describe driving the car). All the SPORT button does is raise the shift points by a certain amount based on how far the gas pedal is depressed. I am going to give 2 examples. The first being, if you have the SPORT mode off and you have the gas pedal depressed say half way, the car is going to shift at say 3500 RPM and if you floor it, it will shift at say 6000 RPM. You engage SPORT mode, you depress the gas pedal half way, it will shift at 3700 RPM (200 RPM higher) and if you have it floored, it will shift at 6500 RPM. Other than that, SPORT mode is a useless button in the car.

 

Yeah okay sounds good, i have a couple videos i am upload to YouTube and send the link so you can see what I hv done and how it sounds.

What is a 50 series muffler? i am not trying to have it go in the extreme mode, I just like want it to sound loud and good when I am driving yk and then if I want abit of a push with the car I could.

Like rn the way it is I can go 0 to 70 within like 4sec and then on the highway I'd be doing over 130km its fast no doubt but it also does take hella of gas like I hv a camero and this car be talking more gas then that camero is a 6.3L v8 😭

Also is it required to fix the o2 readings like whats the worst that can happen if i just lesve it like it is for abit

 

HELP, when it comes to mufflers, a lot of manufacturers have a "series" of mufflers that they run that will cover from factory to pretty much just an empty box in the exhaust system.
The 80 series mufflers are the factory mufflers. Very quiet, may give a little bit of grumble, and will have lots of back pressure.
The 70 Series mufflers are fairly quiet like the 80 series mufflers, but they are a touch louder at idle and will start to make some decent noise at wide open throttle. Not obnoxious, but you know there is not a stock muffler installed. Still offers a fair amount of back pressure, but the exhaust is opening up, allowing more power generation.
The 50 series mufflers are quazi quiet at idle (gives a nice rumble, but not so loud you cannot talk by the vehicle). Now, you put your foot into it, they will definitely let people around you know that you are taking off. They offer some back pressure, but the amount is not a lot and allows a fair amount of power gain.
The 40/44 series mufflers (these are 2 different variations, but they are fairly close to each other) are for the lack of a better word a muffler in name only. They pretty much are just a metal box in the exhaust system for those locations that require you to have a muffler installed. These are going to be very close to what straight piping a vehicle will result in. They are really only meant for drag strips in their lower classes that are "streetable cars". Backpressure in these is almost non-existent.

As for what will happen with the car long term. That is a very loaded question. Running it rich is better on the engine that running it lean. I say that based on cylinder temps. Running lean, the gas burns completely in the cylinder and this causes the temperatures to get very high and can reach points that pistons and valves can melt. I am sure that is pretty obvious in how detrimental it would be to a car. Where, running it rich, the fuel does not burn completely and some of the fuel is left in the liquid state and then flashes to vapor, helping to pull the temps down some. The down side to this is having cats on your car, this unburnt fuel then burns in the cats and this leads to 1 of 2 conditions. The one condition is the fuel builds up carbon inside the cat and over time, this results in the cat plugging up (normally the case in prolonged low power use of the vehicle). The second possibility is that the fuel burns in the cat and it drives the cat temperatures very high (1300F or higher) and this can result in damaged cell structure in the cat that can either result in plugging or result in the cell structure being vaporized away, making the cat completely ineffective (read as failed emissions testing) (normally the result when lots of power and air flow are used for a decent percentage of the time, especially if it is in long, sustained events). Is this likely to happen over 100 miles of driving. Probably not. Will some damage occur, almost certainly. How much, too many variables to even try and guess.