yeah I understand, i did take a look at the fuel pumo well tried to took off the back seat ao I can access the fuel pump but there isn't there it's just one connecter more then 5pins

I took off the intake manifold and teied to crank the engine there is no fuel coming out the injectors. I did use a node light and check the injectors and it does flash.

I am about to jack the car to get to the fuel filter and try what u said insted of taking out the fuel tank right now.

 

The way to change the fuel pump is to modify the x-type to be like an s-type and cut into the metal under the rear seat. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing you how to do that. Then again, it could be a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. See if you can get hold of pressure tester first.

 

There are videos on YouTube for replacing the fuel filter.

 

@Thermo

Alright so, i do hv the pressure gauge but i didnt use it

What I did was i took out the intake manifold and cranked the car, there was no fuel coming out the injectors.
then I went and uses a node light on the injectors and cranked it and it was flashing.

So then now I took apart the back seat to get to the fuel tank it's not there. I did see those videos but I am not confident I might just saw through the tank somehow i rather take it down.

Now for ur test i found the fuel filter but I didn't know what you ment about attaching it. Here is a video of the thing I tested.



So now there are two things I can think of that are happening 1 there is no voltage going to the pump.
2. Pump is bad. When I was under the car I didn't hear no humming or clicking noise which I am pretty sure shoukd happen cranking so the pump engersy.

Ps. I forgot to test the fuse in the driver side for the pump sjould be fine though


Anyways that's the update I have and now I need to know should I tow the car back to my house and take apart the tank there or leave it and do it there that is if it don't take too long ( as in couple days)

 

What those videos tell me is you either have a bad fuel pump (more likely) or a bad fuel pump control module. This is where one of the checks you can try is with the car jacked up like you have it, look on the under side of the fuel tank and you will see a half moon where the fuel pump sits. Give the center of that half moon a few good thumps with your hand (as hard as you can). Then, rotate the key to the RUN position, hold there for a few seconds, then finally roll it to the START position. See if that may allow the car to start. If it does, you can get a little more life out of the current fuel pump. Otherwise, you are going to need to drop the fuel tank to get to the control module and/or the fuel pump. To remove the ring that holds the fuel pump in place, you will need to get a 1/2" square of wood that is about 6" long. You then put the wood against the ribs on the large ring and then you use a hammer to tap the wood to spin the ring off. Kinda like putting the ring on, you will spin the ring on by hand and then give the ring a final few taps use the wood and hammer. You do not need to get that ring super tight. Just needs to be snug.

Of note, to save yourself some money, do some looking here. A few members have found fuel pumps that work that are only that, not the complete pump assembly with float. Replacing the pump in the assembly is pretty easy.

 

I tried to hit the tank with a mallet and no luck.
As for the motor i found a fuel pump motor on amzon that shoukd fit the car.

Could it be that the pump is not getting power? Since I do have a p1240 code from before but that is only picked up when I use some cheap Amazon scanner.

 

@Thermo

Quick question

Before I tow the car to my house and spend an arm and leg, is there a way to bypas the pump and get the engine some fuel? This way i can see how the car runs and if its the issue of it not running properly, and if it is all good I won't hv to tow it.

 

HELP, the only way that I can think of at this time is to have a gallon gas can and then run fuel line into it and then run the line under the car and tap it into the inlet of the fuel filter. You would then need to block the fuel line coming from the fuel pump itself. Then you are needing a fuel pump that can output around 55 psig to keep the car running. This would require a power lead that can handle about 10 amps and a switch in the line to turn it off.

Summarize, disconnect line at fuel filter inlet. Block car's line going back to the fuel pump. Run new line from gas can through aftermarket fuel pump to fuel filter inlet. See if that works. Should.

 

I'm not sure that is a good idea. One spark and you and the car could go poof! Could you summarize what you've tried so far?

 

@Thermo @barnter

mhmmm I am not sure If i can acces the fump without talking out the tank, so I am leave it ig

I havent tried nothig else ecpect whats done in the videos above. Also do you know what relay would be for the pump?

ik I tried to bypass the starter saw a post where smo took out R11 and put a wire in pin 1 and 5 or smt and cranked the car I tired it and nothing not sure if it was the wrong relay,
messed smt else up or It was not the correct relay

 

HELP, well, then it is sounding like you have a tow in your future. I agree it is a risk to drive like I suggest. But, you do it in a controlled manner, keeping to side streets, then you minimize the risks. But, for some, it may still be too risky. Granted, this is coming from someone that had to hold the gas can in his dad's streetrod the first time he got a ride in it and also not try to fall off a bucket as there were no seats in the car either. Damn was that a fun car (well built 350 small block in a 1600 pound car). then again, this is also coming from someone that found it fun to live inside of a submarine for years and even had torpedos shot at him with one hitting the hull (thank goodness that one was a dummy).

 

@Thermo

lol yeah, the towing is crazy they asking around 200 for less then a 5 min drive, I am just gonna tow it with my dads benz using tow straps and hope for the best

its not worth spending 200 for towing thats just stupid id rather tow it myself smw :/

 

Keep us updated on progress. Thanks.

 

yeah for sure, i tired to tow the car yesterday but on of the two straps un hooked saw it coming no damage done I am wait till TN and try it again or get it towed idk yet will see

 

@Thermo

alright so I ended up getting the car towed home :/

here is a video on the update and some other things

btw I still got the p1240 code and on identifix its telling me to do these pinpoints which does led me to do the gas tank, but the note says smt to make it easier I am not sure what its saying to do
should I do these test if so which is the IP and FTP connecter

 

The gas tank is saddle style. The side near the filter contains the pump, the other side contains a sender to get fuel from the other side. To remove the tank, disconnect the drive/prop shaft near the diff. The tank is held in by straps, plus it is connected to the fuel filler pipe.

One way to check if you pump is working, open the gas cap, put your ear near it and have someone turn on the ignition. You should be able to hear it working.

The easiest way to install a pump is to see the videos on where to cut. Then use a Dremel to make a small incision. Using a small reciprocating saw (about $35 from HF) cut and fold back the metal above the seat. The blade of the saw should be pointing up so as not to damage the tank. There is loaner tool from AutoZone that will help removing the bezel surrounding the pump. You will have to do this on both sides. Takes about an hour to replace the pump.

I did say this would be fun. Great video BTW.

 

Is that car sitting on concrete blocks? I was warned years ago not to use them as hack stands but I thought that was dumb advice. Right up until the day I had both blocks just disintegrate and crumble as I was getting ready to go under. Just an fyi.

as for dropping the diff, itll be easier not dropping diff and just coming in from the top

 

@barnter @Aarcuda

Lol thanks feel like I talked abit too much in the video LMAOO

I will check that out to see if my pump is working or not, I dont think it is cuase when I was under it in the other video near the fuel fillter I didnt hear it

and as for the cutting, I dont trust myself I have a felling I will mess up the gas tank smw, rather take it down
and this way I can spend time on it slowly since its back home and dont need it rushed and learn couple things how the pump works and stuff ILR then watching videos and reading books

also so then which side should I go to the one near the fuel fillter? if so how would I get the exhuast out if needed?

as for the diff how would I take it out without removing it?

 

It’s a huge job to remove that differential if you ask me. In order to get it out completely you’ll have to pull the axle shaft which means you’ll have to disassemble or loosen some ball joints, strut rods, shock bolts etc to allow The wheel hubs behind the tires.to swing out to allow the axel stubs to be freed. Then you gonna need an axle removal tool, which in my case is usually a big prybar and work it in between the backside of the axle, and the differential case to pop the other side of the axle from the differential. Those are normally held in place by a little snap ring at the end of the axle stub that goes into the differential and you cannot just pull on the axle shaft to get it out Because the CV joint will be pulled apart. So you have to get in between that big metal collar at the end of the axle and a differential case and quickly give quick short sharp shock to get that snap ring around the end of the axle stub to come out from the differential gears and that can sometimes be a bitch especially if there’s not a good flat prying surface or room to give it to wind up in snap shock that it needs to get the two parts separate.

you’ve gotta worry about broken bolts, potential possibly alignment issues with the rear differential when you reassembling it the loss of differential fluid and a whole list of other unforeseen trouble. Also, take it to account that if you’re doing this on the ground you’ll be on ends with little clearance crying under your vehicle dozens of times to get the right tools so be prepared for lots of cussing and aggravation

once you pull the tank, you have to worry about sticky hoses attached to the tanks, inlet, port lines, electrical, connectors, etc. and if there’s any gas in the tank you’re dealing with an enormous amount of weight that you won’t be expecting. Even a gallon or two in a big plastic tank will weigh about 50 pounds and placing a plug. Jack underneath the tank could rupture. it if it’s not supported correctly, it will tilt and fall. And then putting it back in, you’ll have to worry about things like the rubber O-ring that seals the fill neck to the tank getting hose clamps back in place where there’s not much room to maneuver. Rubber fuel lines that are not very flexible, so they rip and crack instead of Coming off neatly and easily

Its Basically why everybody is suggesting to just cut the hole in the floor so you can leave all that stuff alone

 

HELP, if you remove the exhaust and the rear drive shaft, you can unbolt the gas tank and drop the front end first and then let it slide forward a bit and then the rear will clear the differential (make sure to remove the fill line first). Having the gas tank as empty as possible is going to be helpful too.. There is some play in the wiring to allow you to drop the tank down to then undo the lines and wiring. Like others are saying, not an easy job, but it can be done without cutting.

As for the exhaust, you going to disconnect the exhaust at the clamp there at the differential. The other end will get disconnected at a similar clamp up by the engine bay (want to say near where the 2 exhaust pipes join).