When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
HELP, if you remove the exhaust and the rear drive shaft, you can unbolt the gas tank and drop the front end first and then let it slide forward a bit and then the rear will clear the differential (make sure to remove the fill line first). Having the gas tank as empty as possible is going to be helpful too.. There is some play in the wiring to allow you to drop the tank down to then undo the lines and wiring. Like others are saying, not an easy job, but it can be done without cutting.
As for the exhaust, you going to disconnect the exhaust at the clamp there at the differential. The other end will get disconnected at a similar clamp up by the engine bay (want to say near where the 2 exhaust pipes join).
You can do it that way. Then it becomes tricky to release the bezels on the pump and sender. You still have to deal with connecting the two units together from below the car.
Well, however, you wanna do it it’s up to you I guess just know that I spent about four hours to try to remove one muffler on my car the other day. It was stuck on the pipe so hard I used everything at my disposal to try to get it off the pipe, we had two people me, wiggling the muffler up and down to try to create a little gap and somebody else pushing on it at the same time ended up having to use a torch on the inlet to the muffler to try to get it to expand a little bit so I could get a little bit of wiggle out of it . Yeah, but four hours we were both sweating like pigs by the time we were done.
So i have a update I am might not need to take the pump out 😀
so i got my mongoose cable with the ssd software and i got it hooked up and everything.
the car is connected to the software but I get this error when I run any tasks. The sdd did auto vin my car which is good. Anyways here is the video more info and better then typing out what I see yk
If the car runs, the pump must be working to some extent. You should be able to hear it when someone else turns the ignition on. You can clear the codes using a regular scan tool. You should start there and see what new codes occur when you try running again. There could be many reasons for the DTC's: the pump may be failing, the fuel filter could be clogged etc. How old is the fuel in the tank?
Also, a cheap scan tool will show you the fuel pressure.
If the car runs, the pump must be working to some extent. You should be able to hear it when someone else turns the ignition on. You can clear the codes using a regular scan tool. You should start there and see what new codes occur when you try running again. There could be many reasons for the DTC's: the pump may be failing, the fuel filter could be clogged etc. How old is the fuel in the tank?
Also, a cheap scan tool will show you the fuel pressure.
I have posted he fuel pressure above in other post it was like 5psi or smt. And i dont really hear the pump i only hear the throttle body opening and closing. And technically the car doesn't start its self needs stater fuild to start it and then it runs for like 20sec then shut-offs. I can try to clear the codes and then use the sdd again and see what shows up.
I run version 131. I’ve read that the later versions do not have all of the required calibration files packed inside the software because they have an online service that they store all those files and they want you to pay for the service so maybe that’s why you’re having so much trouble with the version 160.
I also know that, even though I have all the calibration files that go along with the version 131 every time I try to run one of those onboard diagnostic tests it does exactly what you’ve seen. It goes most the way through and that says failed or I get an error of some. so I’ve never been able to run any of those diagnostic test successfully with 131 and I’m taking it just doesn’t have the right files in the SDD folders
The fact that many of your modules have a question mark or exes, telling me that you’ve got a communication problem with your canbus and if you have a problem there you’re not gonna be able to do much of anything until you get that fixed
You can find the version 131 online by googling it and it usually comes with the password that you need to get it up and running. I suggest you try that.
Since you can’t tell when any of those appeared, they could’ve been there for years and youd never know it. Need to clear those codes and I think you can do that just by disconnecting your battery for several minutes stepping on the brake pedal with the battery disconnected drain any charge and I should get rid of the majority of your codes. Then at least whatever shows up after that will be the codes that are there now.
also, I noticed the battery indicator on your screen was gray which kind of says that it’s not seeing a battery maybe. When you run SDD you should always have a good clean 13.6 V power going to battery if you try to do any sort of programming without a battery charger connected you can miss write the files to your modules and, that’s a bad thing
I have posted he fuel pressure above in other post it was like 5psi or smt. And i dont really hear the pump i only hear the throttle body opening and closing. And technically the car doesn't start its self needs stater fuild to start it and then it runs for like 20sec then shut-offs. I can try to clear the codes and then use the sdd again and see what shows up.
If you see 5 psi, it's most likely the fuel pump, but could be filter or pressure regulator. Clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery will help. That low fuel pressure, is going to cause a lot of problems. You've already been advised to get the fuel pressure before the filter. If it's low there, then it is likely pump! Your are certain the battery is okay? A cheap scan tool will tell you voltage at the OBD port. Don't rely on the voltage across the terminals. You could have a grounding issue.
I run version 131. I’ve read that the later versions do not have all of the required calibration files packed inside the software because they have an online service that they store all those files and they want you to pay for the service so maybe that’s why you’re having so much trouble with the version 160.
I also know that, even though I have all the calibration files that go along with the version 131 every time I try to run one of those onboard diagnostic tests it does exactly what you’ve seen. It goes most the way through and that says failed or I get an error of some. so I’ve never been able to run any of those diagnostic test successfully with 131 and I’m taking it just doesn’t have the right files in the SDD folders
The fact that many of your modules have a question mark or exes, telling me that you’ve got a communication problem with your canbus and if you have a problem there you’re not gonna be able to do much of anything until you get that fixed
You can find the version 131 online by googling it and it usually comes with the password that you need to get it up and running. I suggest you try that.
Since you can’t tell when any of those appeared, they could’ve been there for years and youd never know it. Need to clear those codes and I think you can do that just by disconnecting your battery for several minutes stepping on the brake pedal with the battery disconnected drain any charge and I should get rid of the majority of your codes. Then at least whatever shows up after that will be the codes that are there now.
also, I noticed the battery indicator on your screen was gray which kind of says that it’s not seeing a battery maybe. When you run SDD you should always have a good clean 13.6 V power going to battery if you try to do any sort of programming without a battery charger connected you can miss write the files to your modules and, that’s a bad thing
Yeah it might be the files I don't have I do have another version which i am gonna give a try gotta see how to get the cable linked with the software. I will do the battery disconnect as well.
as for the battery charger, it might hv beern cuase i had it set to boost charge rather then jump mode so i will first give it constant voltage for jumping it from the charger box and then hook up the laptop.
If you see 5 psi, it's most likely the fuel pump, but could be filter or pressure regulator. Clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery will help. That low fuel pressure, is going to cause a lot of problems. You've already been advised to get the fuel pressure before the filter. If it's low there, then it is likely pump! Your are certain the battery is okay? A cheap scan tool will tell you voltage at the OBD port. Don't rely on the voltage across the terminals. You could have a grounding issue.
@barnter if you go up abit i did post a video of disconnecting the fuel filter and tank side and crank the car I got smt I think bur not at a pressure. The battery is should be good it is new and I did charge it to 100% the ob2 port shows smt around 12 to 13v to remember exactly how much.
@barnter if you go up abit i did post a video of disconnecting the fuel filter and tank side and crank the car I got smt I think bur not at a pressure. The battery is should be good it is new and I did charge it to 100% the ob2 port shows smt around 12 to 13v to remember exactly how much.
If your fuel pressure is low, then the AF sensor is going to complain and the engine will not run unless you squirt stater fluid into the TB, I which case, you'll likely get a misfire.. As far as I can tell, it's the fuel pump that is at issue.
Not sure if you saw this video. As I said, a better way is to use a reciprocating saw.
If your fuel pressure is low, then the AF sensor is going to complain and the engine will not run unless you squirt stater fluid into the TB, I which case, you'll likely get a misfire.. As far as I can tell, it's the fuel pump that is at issue.
Not sure if you saw this video. As I said, a better way is to use a reciprocating saw.
Update: been pretty bussy with school and stuff so sorry for the late update. I found a couple things that I made a video on. Some guidance on what should be done with this new info
Your current codes/issues point to at least the MAF and fuel pressure (aka IP sensor) sensors. As thermo and xalty mentioned there is a 5v reference signal to several sensors. Are any of the sensors getting a 5 volt supply signal? If that 5 V is not coming out of the ECM you would get a lot of sensor codes.
That 5 volt sensor supply out of the ECM has been mentioned a few times previously. From your video I see there is something wrong. That yellow/green wire at pin 1 should be 5.0 volts. My Jag Workshop Manual says between 4.5 and 5.5 is acceptable. In my experience sensor supplies are typically very very close to 5.0 volts.
At the end of the video it looks like you are reading the pinpoint test for the 3 pin MAP sensor but testing the 5 pin MAF sensor. My manual says that power wire to MAF should be orange, exactly as you found. You measure 4.99 volts so that is perfect. BUT, the MAF and the fuel pressure sensors operate on 2 separate 5 volt supplies. The fuel pressure sensor gets 5 volts from the same supply that goes to the MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, pedal position sensor, and fuel tank pressure sensor.
I think you have one of 3 problems here. Either the ECM is not putting out 5 volts, one of the wires to the 5 sensors is shorted to ground bringing the whole 5 volt supply down, or one of the sensors is shorted. I would unplug all 5 of those sensors and check for 5 volts at all of them. If you don't have 5 volts measure the resistance to ground from each of those 5 connectors where you are supposed to have power. One is likely to have near zero resistance because it is shorted to ground.
If you do get 5 volts at all of the connectors I would plug one connector back in and check for 5 volts on the others. Then plug in the next sensor and repeat. In that way you can narrow down which branch is the problem.
For example, say you have 5 sensors disconnected and measure 5 volts on each. Your power supply is good. You plug in the fuel tank pressure sensor and you still measure 5 volts on the fuel pressure sensor, everything is good. Then you plug in the pedal position sensor and you no longer have 5 volts at the fuel pressure sensor. Now you know the problem is with the pedal position sensor because plugging it in shorts the whole 5 volt supply.
Standard disclaimer: I am looking at a manual and wiring diagrams for my 2005 model year, not for your car.
That 5 volt sensor supply out of the ECM has been mentioned a few times previously. From your video I see there is something wrong. That yellow/green wire at pin 1 should be 5.0 volts. My Jag Workshop Manual says between 4.5 and 5.5 is acceptable. In my experience sensor supplies are typically very very close to 5.0 volts.
At the end of the video it looks like you are reading the pinpoint test for the 3 pin MAP sensor but testing the 5 pin MAF sensor. My manual says that power wire to MAF should be orange, exactly as you found. You measure 4.99 volts so that is perfect. BUT, the MAF and the fuel pressure sensors operate on 2 separate 5 volt supplies. The fuel pressure sensor gets 5 volts from the same supply that goes to the MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, pedal position sensor, and fuel tank pressure sensor.
I think you have one of 3 problems here. Either the ECM is not putting out 5 volts, one of the wires to the 5 sensors is shorted to ground bringing the whole 5 volt supply down, or one of the sensors is shorted. I would unplug all 5 of those sensors and check for 5 volts at all of them. If you don't have 5 volts measure the resistance to ground from each of those 5 connectors where you are supposed to have power. One is likely to have near zero resistance because it is shorted to ground.
If you do get 5 volts at all of the connectors I would plug one connector back in and check for 5 volts on the others. Then plug in the next sensor and repeat. In that way you can narrow down which branch is the problem.
For example, say you have 5 sensors disconnected and measure 5 volts on each. Your power supply is good. You plug in the fuel tank pressure sensor and you still measure 5 volts on the fuel pressure sensor, everything is good. Then you plug in the pedal position sensor and you no longer have 5 volts at the fuel pressure sensor. Now you know the problem is with the pedal position sensor because plugging it in shorts the whole 5 volt supply.
Standard disclaimer: I am looking at a manual and wiring diagrams for my 2005 model year, not for your car.
Thank you, i can post the wiring diagram i am look at similar to the one u have sent. I know i don't have power at IP sensor. I have power at pin 2 on MAF. Right now I am in the process in taking out the fuel tank, which I think I should continue so I can check the FTP sensor as well. I will go home and take a look at the other TB and the APP sensor. Should I take out the ecm connector and check for 5v on Pin 12? But I am getting 5V (4.99) at the MAF pin 2. Ohhh wait I am a dumbass MAF and MAP is different BRUHHH. okay so I don't know if I have power at any of the connectors which I will check. Where is the MAP sensor located?
