Help, this is not so much a dongle as it is the software to be able to look at stuff. This is where getting a modern day version of SDD is going to be helpful as it will tell you if you are geting data transfer. But then, this is something that the locksmith should have told you when he was playing with your car. His software should have seen whether the information was making it to the instrument cluster and/or the PATS module and then on to the ECU.

Your answer most likely lies in the picture that has the screen "Operator Message". Those codes will have to be decifered, but they should all point to a common fault. This is where I would bring that screen back up and see what else you can find out via those messages. Me bringing up those messages is going to send us on a wild goose chase as the SDD is needing to be connected to that model car and I do not have my X-type any longer. There should be some sort of diagnostic procedure inside of SDD that will show the data links and it will tell you go put in a key and it will follow the messaging. If it is failing right off the bat, then I would be looking at the ring around the key. If it is making it to the instrument cluster, then you are looking at that and/or the data line. But, because you are not getting other codes relating to CAN bus failures, I think you can rule that out. So, you are back to either a module or the antenna. I hate to say "replace the instrument cluster and if that doesn't work, then replace ......, then replace ......, then replace.

 

I totally understand this yeah, the person that tried to program ecm again he also tried to program keys using the SDD software but it didnt work off the bat, like it would tell to turn key off and on and then wait couple seconds then say smt like not found. The person did say that I have to get a instrumental cluster but I am not sure how that could hv stopped working out of no where yk.

as for the dongles, I get that I need the software but the software I have doesn't work with my dongle I have the vnci nano, it just wont connect to the software
so I got the programmer from amazon to see if that would connect
and I also bought a mongoose cable with JLR V160

I hv V160 but i think its to new of a version so it wont work with the jaguar
I also hv v130 which I read should work with my year jags

also how would I check the ring around the key like what should I be looking for? how should I make it work?

 

your ecm is a badly eepromed abortion i’ve told you this several times.

go save your vid block and get a good used ecm

 

what? what do you mean badly eepromed abortion????

vid block????

 

@xalty He has the VIN number programed to the ecm alr

 

HELP, the instrument clusters in the X-Type are known for having cracked solder joints on the main connector. This can cause all sorts of issues. If you pull out the instrument cluster, you can look at all the solder joints. What you are looking for is a black circle (hair making a circle) in the solder. You see this, you need to remelt the solder joint. This is where a magnifying glass is going to be helpful. If in doubt, remelt. But, you need to focus on the main connector coming in at the center of the instrument cluster. Those joints see a lot of stress and are the most likely to crack. This could also potentially explain the antenna not working as the antenna feeds into the instrument cluster as I recall.

 

ok bet thank you I will go take it out and will update you today night or tm morning

 

@Thermo @dh53

UPDATE!!!
I had another person come and do the imbolizer it also did not work but after awhile....

The car now cranks, it's in limp mode, but it doesn't stay running it revs up to 2k then goes down and turns off. the car only starts when I Continuously spray starter spray when I stop it shuts off

I am getting 1 code related to the TB which is p1573. I also have the same codes i posted above after clearing it.

Could I do a pinpoint test?
the code I search up it says fix wiring with p1229
Which is the same code i got in the first place.

 

HELP, ok, as far as the car running, what this is telling me is that you have a fuel issue. If the car is running on starter fluid but will not when you stop spraying, then you are getting no fuel. So, now, the question becomes, what is causing the fuel pump to not run? Just to make sure, when you get the car to crank, is there a red light flashing on the center console? There should not be, but if there is, that could possibly explain the lack of fuel being supplied and the car not running. I am not remembering 100% if the immobilizer stops the fuel or the spark. I will need to refresh myself on this. So, for now, you can try disconnecting the fuel line from the downstream side of the fuel filter and see if you are getting fuel pressure there (should be atleast 55 psig there, potentially up to 80 psig). This will start narrowing down where the fuel is being stopped at. If you are only getting say 30 psig, then this would pretty much confirm a bad fuel pump. Granted, I would still put in a new fuel filter unless that has been recently.

I will need to see what that code says in my books and maybe that will give me an idea of what is going on.

 

@Thermo The car is getting fuel, cause like after abit of sparring I got to the point where the car started rough but without the TB being sprayed it ran for a couple seconds, the rpms went up down up and then engine off, I could make a video of it tring to start so u get a idea of whats happing, but I dont have the scanner to show you the p1537 cause thats only stored in the transmision module. also I dont have a fuel pressure tester I could just take it out crank the car and see how much comes out at what pressure yk.

 

@Thermo

Could it be the interia switch? on the passenger side there is this button I think might hv been pressed when talking out the ecm

 

@Thermo

I will make the video tm and send it. Is there any wiring tests I can do? Did you manage to find any info on the code? I also do have this code which is P1582

 

Help, I want you to try something. When attempting to crank the car, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position and hold it there for say 5 seconds. NOw, after the 5 seconds, roll the switch to the START position. Does the car seem to start easier/run longer? If yes, then this is telling me you have a bad fuel pump. This is where a "thump" to the fuel tank in the middle of it may jar the pump enough to get it to run better for a bit of time, but it will not be the fix all.

As for the inertia switch you talk about, pushing it resets it. So, push it all you want, you are only resetting it. It takes a hard hit to the car to trip it. This actually ties into the P1582 code you are getting. That code says it has triggered the "flight recorder" (aka, recorded a bunch of parameters at some point in time) relating to a problem with the inertia switch. 2 conditions can trigger this. You either have a problem with the 12V going to the inertia switch from the ECM and it is shorted (what I have does not say to where) or the inertia switch has failed.

If you want to prove the inertia switch good, you can access it in the passenger footwell area and measure between the green/orange wire and the green/blue wire (the 3rd wire being a green/red wire which feeds the doors to be automatically unlocked if the inertia switch is triggered). You should get 12VDC on those 2 wires and any time that the engine is attempting to run, you should get 0 VDC drop between these 2 wires. If you are getting any voltage above 0.3 VDC measuring from the green/orange to the green/blue wires, then the inertia switch is bad. Granted, this can explain a lot of the ECM issues and the general lack of spark as the inertia switch feeds the ignition relay which sends power to the ECM.

The P1229 code is saying you have a problem with your throttlebody. You can have 1 of 3 issues: 1) plug to the throttle body disconnected/damaged, 2) ECM not conrolling the throttlebody correctly, or 3) failure of the throttlebody. Now Number 3 is a possibility as I have seen people have issues with the brushes being worn in their throttlebodies leading to rough running issues. BUt, I think you have something a bit more involved here. This is where you may want to consider swapping out the iginition relay if the inertial switch tests fine. A low voltage to the ECM can make it do funky things.

 

@Thermo

Okay sounds good I can give that a try tomorrow

I did some homework too and this is what I got

Picture of the steps






Vidoes may be long, but this way you can see what I see yk and anything in the video could be helpful

here are the pictures I was talking about






also
I was using a nod light and when I have it connected to the 2 red and green wires on the TB the light does not flash I have it connected when ignition on and when cranking
I also have the connecter on the first time and the second time I took it out and tried which still didnt work. I could also not test the fuel pressure I forgot about that :/

 

That square connector you show, it needs a good cleaning. Too much stuff hanging on the pins. Spray it down with contact cleaner really good. Some of those pins also look discolored (golden colored). I would be seeing what runs through those pins and see if that may relate to what you are experiencing.

 

@Thermo okay, yeah I will give that a try, I did check live data for fuel and for the input not sure what it was called but smt like
fuel sys1 = 0l
fuel sys2 = 0l
fuel pres = 66KPA

all these values stay the same when trying to crank the car

 

OK, there is a positive sign of a fault. 66KPa is only 9.5 psig. That is too low of a pressure to get sufficient spray to get the car to run. You should be up around 400KPa with the engine off, 330KPA with the engine running. So, that tells me you have 1 of 3 problems. 1) clogged fuel filter, 2) failed fuel pump, or 3) a stuck open fuel injector. Based on age of car, I would be going after the fuel pump. This is where a check with a mechanical gauge at the fuel filter will give some clarity. If you can get 50+ psig at the fuel filter (dead headed into the pressure gauge), then we know the fuel pump is doing what it should and that means the problem is either a fuel pressure sender or a fuel injector. If you get a low fuel pressure, then it is almost 100% the fuel pump. the pump driver module normally is not the issue.

I would talk with your local automotive parts store and see if you can rent a pressure guage. Then you would need a little bit of fuel line hose to attach to the outlet of the fuel filter, a hose clamp, and then whatever is needed to attach to the pressure guage. Normally the "rental" is nothing more than paying for the pressure gauge on your credit card and when you return the gauge, you get 100% of the money back.

 

alright I can give that a try I feel like it might be the sensor plug on the right side of the fuel rail because I do still have power malfunction code and in all data it wants me to test that sensor and smt else related to the fuel system.

For the test where is the fuel filter located? And how would i connect the tool?

 

As the Amazing Thermo says, the fuel pump is the most likely culprit. Also, you could just try replacing the fuel filter. An inexpensive item. If the fuel pump needs to be replaced, prepare yourself for some fun.

 

HELP, this is where the fuel pressure at the filter is going to tell you a lot of stuff. With no pressure making it to the sensor, it should be trying to raise the pressure. hence why you should get 50+ psig at the filter. If you get a high pressure, then sure, check that sensor. But, really, the "check" is replacing the sensor.