@Thermo Okay wont look at the other wires, but what should I do with F36, It just goes into the ECM?

 

also @Thermo you are right the program was bugging using different program: (pro-demand)
here is what I found:

 

Help, you mention bypassing fuses and using other power sources. That is a BAD IDEA!!!!!!!! Fuses are rated for specific conditions and when you start changing those conditions, it can get ugly. Kinda like the wiring is designed only to flow a certain amount of current. You put a wire that was originally on a 5 amp circuit and put it behind a 20 amp fuse, you run the risk of turning that wire into a heating element. I do not know about you, but BBQ'ed Jaguar is not a pretty sight. What do I mean by this, you can easily make that wire into a toaster element and catch the engine bay on fire. You think you have problems now. Ha ha ha ha ha.

From the looks of things, your fuse box has an issue with it. Fuse F36 should have power to it. With it not having power, this is leading to only a few possibilities. There is no separate wire that feeds power to fuse F36. It is coming directly off of a bus bar inside the fuse box. You have to figure out what is between that bus bar and the terminal feeding power to the fuse. Should be only a single little clip. I know it is not a problem with the bus bar as you would have lots of things with the car not working. You want to use an "add a circuit" to temporarily give power to the load side of fuse F36, go for it. But, this should not be your answer to the problem. It is merely a method for proving the problem and seeing what else may be out there. For this test I would say to find a 30+ amp fuse that has battery power on it. Adding the few amps from this circuit is not going to be detrimental to the overall safety of the circuit and you can do this with relative comfort knowing you are not going to hurt something else in the car. I think the trick for you will be determining which side of the fuse is the line side (ie, coming from the battery) and which is the load side (going to the ecm). But, your light tester will tell you that as you should be able to pull the fuse and using the tester, one side should show nothing and the other side will give you a green light saying that it has continuity. You want to apply power to the red light/continuity side with your add a fuse device. You wll just be shoving a wire down in to where the fuse would go as a temporary thing.

 

trainwreck in progress. your dude did a botched eeprom job now you have 5v ref problems instead of a busted throttle driver

save your vid block then get a used ecm out of a same year xtype run immo put your old vid block back in

 

Yeah ok LMAO, wont do that then

as for the fuse there is power to it red light on both sides with the fuse in, I will go take a look and do what your saying, but before that, I dont fully understand what you mean about adding power " add a fuse device" ?

 

what do you mean?
the person he told me that he copied the data from the old ecm to the new used one. The vin numbers match and I can also unlock and lock the car using the fob

 

ecm has nothing to do with the fob unlocking that’s a gecm thing

again you went from an ecm that had a throttle motor driver issue to one that’s throwing totally different sensor ref codes and won’t even crank….

 

does not kind of? cause before when the ecm blew the key fob didnt even work not until he finnaly cloned/programed the ecm

 

HELP, the "add a fuse" device simply piggy backs on to a fuse and gives you another circuit to power something. In this case, you would this device to plug into a fuse say next door to F36. This then lets you add a fuse (you would add a 5 amp fuse) and then you would take the end of the wire that you would put to the new circuit, but in this case, you would shove it down in the hole where the fuse goes temporarily (hence why I say you need to find the load side so you do not back feed the fuse box). From there, you will get power to the needed part of your ECM to do further testing. If you happen to be pulling too much power, the fuse in the device will protect the car from bad things.

The device I am talking about is in this link: Bussmann ATM Fuse tap (autozone.com). It replaces your good fuse and gives you a wire to feed power to the load side of fuse F36.

 

@Thermo
Okay I get what you mean. In the previous post you wanted me to check for the which side is power and which is ground on fuse 36 this is what I found:

 

@Thermo So, I went out and got my self a fuse tab quick question is how do I power it the wire that sticks out (red one) do I connect that with the positive battery? or like a small 12V battery?
also I did watch some videos on how to use them and they all say not to use it if the fuse is related to ECM cause then it might destroy smt else?

 

HELP, what happens is the fuse that you are going to tap power off of, you remove. You then slide this "add a fuse" into the slot. You wll then put the fuse that you removed "into the slot" but this will actually be going into the add a fuse. You can then take the wire and feed it back into the fuse box. As for damaging the ECM, as long as you make a good connection, you should be fine for this power source. There are multiple power inputs into the ECM that then go through hte ECM to then be powered. You get a shaky power source for that, yes, you can potentially damage things. What you are doing is going to be done for 5 minutes (long enough to prove if you can start the car or not). The problems come from where people are trying to cheat the system and use these "add a fuse" to repower something and they do not do a good job, leaing to power than is not steady.

 

@Thermo Hi sorry got busy with school, So I get what your saying, but how do I power the fuse tap? so like here is a picture of it:






the lower slot is where the fuse I take out goes, then in the upper slot I need to add another fuse less then the one that's on the lower on
so in my case, the bottom one would be 5 amp fuse, then on top I would add a 4 amp fuse or lower

and now for the power input where do I connect that wire to?
like I guess it should be 12v so should I run a wire straight into the positive terminal of the battery?

I am wait for your reply and I am gonna go tomorrow and do the test and see what happens

 

HELP, you have the idea backwards. You get the power from the fuse looking end and the lone wire is what you would feed into load side of the fuse you are overcoming (Fuse F36 in this case). You would have to cut the connector off of the end and strip back a little bit of the insulation, but that will get you the power you need.

 

@Thermo lol, I am I lost

I watched a video on jow to use the fuse tap and that's what the video said to do it not sure joe you want me try.

 

HELP, I would be interested in seeing the video that you watched because what you are describing and how these get used are two different things. The black end (where you can plug in 2 fuses), that gets plugged into where you have power already and then you reinstall the fuse that you removed (to gain access to power) and the other opening is for a second fuse so you can fuse the load that you are going to power with the wire and blue connector. I am saying to remove the blue connector to make it easier to temporarily stick the end of the wire into the fuse box to power the ECM at Fuse F36 location.

 

I think I get what you're saying, maybe not
This is the video I watched:
I am gonna make a rough drawing or smt and see if i understand what you're trying to tell me

 

@Thermo
So thats the drawing

legend:
pink > fuses
blue > fuse tap
orange/red > the wire on the side of the fuse tap
1. Cig fuse 10amps
2. F36. 5amps

So what i think you are saying is:

let's say the fuse 1 is for the cig portI. I would take that fuse out see which side is power and insert the fuse tap. With the fuse I took out that would go on the bottom slot of the tap. And for the top it would a fuse with less amps then the bottom one. Now with the single wire you want me to cut it so it's easier to insert the wire into the power side of the fuse 36.

idk this is what i think your saying

 

HELP, you are very close. All that you said is correct other than the wire insertion part. The wire coming out of the fuse tap needs to go to the LOAD (ECM) side of the fuse. That way power is going from the cig fuse, through the fuse jumper, through the wire, to the load (ECM) side of fuse F36. That way, you are providing a temporary source of power to the ECM to verify what we are thinking in the matter of having a fuse box issue.

 

@Thermo okay sounds good then. The load side would be the right side if the fuse 36? In the video that is where i have my power showing with test light.

Also do I need fuse36 to be inserted or can i take it out and not use it?