@xalty would you have the ids I need?

 

HELP, I was hoping that the MAF sensor was grounding out a power supply. BUt, from the sounds of things, it is not affecting the car. Not sure what else to tell you other than measuring the votlage and finding if it is at 5 VDC or if it is low. (say around 0 VDC). You could then possibly unplug all the sensors on that line and see if the voltlage comes back up. IF so, then you can plug in the sensors one at a time t ofigure out which one is dragging that voltage down.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam
ok so I got the time and did the test

I checked for voltage at pin1 on the MAF sensor it showed me 11V

so next thing I did was check for the ohms on pin 3 of the MAFS and pin 44 on the ECM connecter
I got 0 ohms I had it set to read 200 cause the test was asking if I had less then 5 so know its looking like a ground issue

I check pin 2 MAFS and ECMC pin 45 and 46 and I get 0 still checking for 5 ohms

know I check for ground on pin 3 of the MAFS and I am looking to see if its greater then 10,000 ohms
again 0

I might have to test this again cause I am debating that my pin on the MM wire is not long enough and is not making any connections

but anyways I know go and test my fuse in the engine using test light

it says to check F36
I take it out fuse is NOT blown

I go test all the fuses there are some fuses that are showing there is no power
F36
F27
F32
F2

for the first one the fuse is NOT blown
I am not sure why there is no power to it

it started to rain so before closing it up I disconnected the wires that are connected to the MAF connecter like you said and still no luck


any tips on what the next step should be?

 

HELP, if fuse F2 has no power, then like, half of your car should not be working. F2 is a fuse that powers a lot of things via the ignition switch relay (ECU, power windows, some exterior lights, the seat heaters, etc). So, if you can turn the ignition switch to the RUN position and operate the windows, then we know that fuse F2 is good. Just to make sure, Fuse F2 is a 50 amp fuse. Remember, your year car has 2 different wiring harnesses to it. So, we need to be careful to be looking at the correct diagrams so we do not confuse ourselves. Kinda like Fuse F36 powers the MAF sensor along with a number of other sensors, which would explain one of your error codes. This is where you may want to simply replace fuse F36 and see what you have.

 

@Thermo

Oh Okay sounds good, for the 50amp I changed out the fuse for the f36 nothing changed, I will take a look at the F32 and swap it out to see in the mean while ↓

I am using All data, identifix, pro-demand to see what the testing producers are and to get the electecal views
anyways on all those programs I give the car VIN number so I am not sure which wiring diagram its showing I am hoping that its showing the right one lol
anyway to check? or would you have the correct one?

also after the fuse test if its okay it says to check JB34 pin 93 for less then 10V

one more thing, for the p1240 first step it wants me to do is check IP sensor IJ7
not sure which one that is

 

@Thermo

So I checked out the car today
when I have the Key on the ON position the windows do roll down

THINGS I TESTED
1. using a different led for the multimeter I check the power on the MAF it was 9.8 which then is telling me to check fuse 36 in the engine box (5amps fuse)
2. since the fuse is good it wants me to check JB34 pin 93 I WAS SO LOST I have no idea what JB34 is there is no pinout for it either I can not find it
3. so after searching for what JB34 and its pinpoint is No luck, I moved back and went to test the ohms on pin 3 on MAF and 44 on the ECM and still nothing (((
4. Now back to the fuse when I have my multimeter set to 20V
the led goes on the positive terminal of the battery and then the other led goes to the fuse > I get nothing no volts
When the led is with the ground (negative) of the battery and the other led is with the fuse > I get a reading of ~9V

I am very lost on why this is not working and what the issue could be
If there is anyone that can help out any ideas would be amazing

 

@Tech_JLR all info is above

 

AS far as Keys go I bought, but have yet to try to program a key with my scanner.

I bought a 2024 Launch X431 off Amazon for sub $150. It was preprogrammed for Jag and LR.=, and stated right in the ad that it did keys.

I have scrolled through the applications all the way up to where it starts the configuration. I am chasing down a lean gremlin right now, but when i get that fixed i will do a key program and report back.

 

You got very lucky that scanner is now around 900 on Amazon

 

Anyone have a idea? so far I am getting power on my MAF sensor, but there is less then 5ohms ( nothing) from pin 3 to the ECM
also for the F36 there is no power and on the wiring diagram on all data it says it should be hot all the time unless I am checking the fuse wrong
which I dont think so, but using a test light the clip should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery?
just so I know I was not using it wrong I did also use my mutilmeter and I got no readings.

@Thermo @h2o2steam
any pointers?


PS: I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT JB34 PIN 93 IS
BEEN A WEEK CANT FIND ANYTHING ONLINE

here is a picture of the testing I am doing so you guys know

 

Help, if you are using a test light to see if you have power, then I would take the ground lead and attach it to a known good ground (test the light on the battery positive terminal to make sure the light lights). Now, using a straight pin, go to fuse F36 and insert the pint to touch the top silver terminal of the fuse. Then, touch the test light to the pin. Repeat for the other silver tab on top of the fuse. You should get a bright light on both terminals. If you only get 1 light bright or no lights, then you have a problem with either the fuse (one light) or the fuse box (no lights).

As for JB34, that is a connector somewhere. In this case, it is one of the connectors on the backside of the engine bay fuse box. This is where a diagram is going to pinpoint which connector it is. From the sounds of things, it should be a big connector (with like 100 wires attached to it) and you are after pin 93.

 

@Thermo alright sweet thank you, I will give this a shot tm make a video of how I do and what the results I get

and for the JB34 I can take a look behind the fuse box but on the wiring diagrams there is no connecter called JB34
cant find it on the diagrams

 

@Thermo

So i did the tests today here are the videos I made ( fully raw not edited)







so any ideas on what the next steps should be?

 

Help, as for your light tester, because of there being many styles of them, you need to look in the book as to what a red light means and a green light means. Watching the video, you were getting red lights when you supposedly had power and green lights when you didn't. Based on that, I would suspect that red means you have power and green would indicate that the circuit has continuity to ground, but not power. So, this would lead me to believe that your problem is most likely involving the fuse box and you are not getting connection to the one fuse. This is not an unheard of thing with the X-Type. A few members have had to replace their fuse box due to strange electrical issues like this.

As for your checks involving the MAF sensor, I would say to first get the battery up to 12.6 VDC. These tables are made with the assumption that you only have a single fault. Having a low battery would be adding a second "fault" (not really a problem, but the computer needs minimum voltages to function properly). So, charge up the battery to 12.6 VDC and then reperform the tests.

 

@Thermo okay sounds good, i will get it charged up and test them again

And for the test light I think your right here is a screenshot.



So now if it is the fuse being an issue how can I narrow it down to see which wire it would be maybe I could repair it instead of replacing the whole fuse box

 

I don't have any helpful information to add to the conversation. And I'm not trying to distract from the conversation, however I read the entire thread and I was curious how you got to the point where you needed to replace the ECM to begin with. Seems like a real chore hopefully you figure it out sooner than later seems to have been going on for a while.

Mike

 

Hi Mike, nw lol

So basically the car was running fine for around 2weeks after i fixed its coolant and misfire issue

Then on the way back to school the engine light started to flash, hooked up my scanner pulling the car to the side and it showed it was misfiring. I had recently chsnged out the ignition coils and sprak plugs. Anyways got it home and I took aprt everything to see if there was oil on sprak plugs there wasn't. I put it all back together and fire it up same thing

So the next day I go and try to start it, and there is nothing not cranking battery was charged also got my scanner snd it gave me a p1229 code

So after researching asking on fourms and doing a bunch of tests, I got to taking out the ecm, and I opened jts case up and took the board out

There was a blown resistor in the ecm. Lol stil hv no clue how that blew maybe when I was doing some of the tests? Idk but yeah that's why I got a new used ecm.

 

Help, I would say to repeat the checks on the fuse that just has continuity, but with the key in the RUN position. This should put power on all the applicable circuits to make the car run. If you are still only getting continuity, then you need to open up the fuse box and see what is making/breaking connection. I have not necessarily torn apart a Jaguar fuse box, but a lot of the fuse boxes are made from a common supplier for many brands. Having played with a Ford fuse box, you will find that there are little stabs that link a terminal on a main board to a fuse. These can develop a high resistance/open and lead to a loss of power. Unfortunately, replacing these connectors is a real PITA as you have to take the whole fuse box apart and then try and align the 40ish tabs that are in the fuse box back up to get it all put back together.

THinking, a check you may want to try is getting your hands on what is called a "toner" or a "signal tracer". In short, this is a 2 part tool where 1 half puts an AC signal (safe for computer and whatnot as it is a very low current thing) on a wire and then you have an antenna that you run along wires to see where the other end is in a bunch of wires. But, this can also be used to run down a wire to figure out where it breaks connectivity. In this case, you would pull fuse F36, determine which side is the load side (going to the sensor of the car) and the supply side (coming from the battery). You would then put the signal side of the device into the fuse clip and feel the signal back towards the battery and using the antenna, follow the wire (getting a tone) until you can't get a tone no more. Where the tone ends is within inches of where the wire is broken. You can then repair the problem. Granted, what I am suspecting you are going to find is that the stab that I talk about is going to be your problem. So, you are going to input the tone and not get anything on the output of the fuse box. This is going to prove that the problem is internal to the fuse box.

Here is an example of what I am talking about: Telephone Cable Tester Network Tool Wire Tracer Toner Wire Tracer Circuit | eBay

Here is a slightly higher tech one: Tone Generator Kit, Wire Tracer Electrical Circuit Tester, 200EP Cable Toner Det | eBay

These are invaluable when hunting down where wires go and you have a bunch of wires to deal with or you suspect you have a wire that is broken inside the insulation.

 

@Thermo okay, I could order that from amazon and get it sometime next week, but I did take a look at the wiring diagrams and this is what I found:

 

HELP, based on that diagram, fuse F36 is really for nothing more than memory in the ECM. The ECM learns how you drive and adapts the fueling and other functions of the car to you. So, loss of this should have minimal effect on the ECU other than the engine running rough for the first few seconds as it relearns how you drive. It could also possibly have an effect on starting the car as it may use this to keep the ECM powered as you switch between START and RUN.

As for why you are getting the brown/red wire lit up in muliple locations I think is more a fault with your diagram program than anything. The coils do not maintain power when you turn off your car. If they maintained power, you would have a fairly significant current draw on your battery with the car off. So, I would simply ignore the other highlighting of the red/brown wire when looking at Fuse F36.