Hi Guys!

I did end up buying a 2002 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 Manual car. The good news..... Car "shows" 95,707 miles. Car leather drivers seat appears in good shape, not all cracked or ripped to go along with 95K. Car exterior looks like 95K. Engine runs well. Car "manual" shifts well. I paid with taxes and fees $2000 out the door. Now, why did I get such a great car for such a low price? Now for the bad....

Speedometer doesn't work. Mileage shows up when you start car but after you drive away it shows all dashes. Every time I start it the car still says 95707 so based on me putting miles on it, it has to have more miles. A/C digital screen controls and screen works but does not put out cold air. Radio works but screen does not. CD works but screen does not. When I put on my turn signals I get no arrows, only a headlight indicator. With car off and battery on, hazard and turn signals and headlights work. But with car started, when left signal is on but the fender light "flickers" faintly. With the right turn signal on, the back lights show the LEFT turn signal on! In the dark with no headlights on, when I tap the brake pedal, the radio screen that doesn't work, does illuminate green plus all the buttons above such as defrost and all buttons in the row, illuminate! They light up when I tap the brake and go off as soon as I let off the brake. It does this with vehicle running or when just in battery mode. On instrument cluster besides speedometer not working and mileage turning into dashes, the odometer dashes flicker from regular to dim. Also the ABS light is on, the traction control light is on, and the check engine light is on. Power seat was working until I tilted it back and I heard the fuse pop. Traction control button does nothing but sometimes when vehicle is started it will flash red real quick.

I won't get into details about the leak in the exhaust because it sounds good lol. The rear suspension has issues and I'm pretty sure the front suspension has problems too. I pull up the emergency brake and the car still rolls back. Oh yeah and the remote doesn't work. Key does lock and unlock all door electronically so maybe remote needs new battery or maybe its related to all the electrical problems. Other than that it's a great car !

Basically it's an electrical nightmare right now! Are all the items bad or could one or two things be the source of my problems like a bad computer or module? I don't know where to start. I guess I'm going to pull engine codes and then unhook battery and start checking fuses. I have no book to show what fuse is for what. I could've posted each problem in a particular related thread but there are just so many problems electrically and I just need a starting point.

I bought this car thinking it had a Ford Duratec motor in it and I "heard" the car was basically a Taurus with a Jaguar shell put on it. I don't know what a Mondeo is in America but it looks like that was a Contour and now is a Fusion? I used to own a pair of twin 1988 XJ6's and while they ran great, they were electrical nightmares with Lucas and Bosch flawed wiring systems. I was glad to be buying a Ford because I've owned many Ford's with Duratec 24V V6's with over 200K on them and they ran good but most importantly, NO electrical problems. I thought that with Ford involved, it wouldn't be an electrical nightmare but as of right now, it is. PLEASE HELP ME!!

 

With all them small issues I would suspect it was some type of water damage or extreme humidity that has caused issues in one of your modules.
I hope someone can pinpoint it for you.

I have been where you are, I ended up taking a loss and selling it. You may come out on top if you sell for a loss, compared to repair costs, headaches etc..

 

That's a lot of trouble for 2Gs.

First thing I would do is remove the battery completely and charge it for at least 24hrs. While that is going on, go around the engine bay first and check/clean and retighten all ground straps. Then do the rest.

Also check every single fuse.

When you have done that, reconnect the battery and see what happens but at very least you will have a good known base to start from for checking other things.

If you need diagrams or handbooks have a look in the Xtype forum stickies, they are free to download.

Hope this helps and do keep us updated with your progress.

 

Ted, as for the rear suspension, talk with me. The rear suspension is easy to fix and if you know where to get parts, it is fairly cheap. There is also an upgrade you can do to the rear end to give you a bit more flexibility and the parts are actually cheaper than you can get the factory parts for.

As for your electrical issues, I have to agree that it sounds like you got a car that was involved in a flood. With that being said, let me look at my diagrams and see if I can spot a commonality that we can resolve atleast some of the issues. All the lighting issues may be because of a bad headlight switch or turn signal stalk.

As for the radio doing what it is doing, that is buying a new radio. NOt much that you can do about that.

As for the instrument cluster, I would first remove the cluster and see if you can spot any broken solder joints. But, beyond that, it is sounding like a bad chip that will most likely result in you needing to replace the instrument cluster. The trick with this is that sometimes you can get away with simply putting in a new cluster (one that was built at about the same time as your car) and all is good. But, other times, installing the instrument cluster results in a no-start condition as the car thinks the vehicle has been tampered with and it is protecting itself from theft.

 

Thanks for the replies and support so far. I don't think it has been in a flood just because I used to work on flood cars and it doesn't show any of those signs. I've read posts that say if a wheel speed sensor is bad, both the ABS and the Traction Control light come on. But I have other issues too like no speedometer and messed up brake and turn signal lights. I'm thinking instrument cluster issues, ECM, replace Fuse Box........ But I won't know until I dig in and check the battery cables and ground cables and more. It's raining out so I haven't even been able to do anything yet.

 

How did you end up buying a car with so many OBVIOUS problems? What's your level of technical knowledge of cars? Have you had checked for codes? There's something fishy here.

 

Sounds like you bought an X , with its own box of short circuits !!

 

TONY_H, I bought the car with multiple obvious problems because the condition of the interior and exterior were great and it had 95K and the motor seems to idle and run well and it shifts good with a hard to find manual transmission. For $2000 what can you get? I passed a 97 Chevy Cavalier with dented rear quarter panel and more miles for $2175. I knew it had problems but didn't know of ALL the problems. It wasn't until dark time I was able to tell the turn signals and brake lights are all messed up even causing interior lights to go on when I press the brake pedal. And I knew the speedometer was out but didn't know the odometer wasn't calculating miles until after I bought it.

To answer the question of my mechanical ability.....I can do minor to average things. If it's not too hard to get to, I have a chance. I've swapped out instrument clusters and ECM's before as well as fuse boxes. I used to own a 99 VW Passat with the 2.8L and stick shift and I miss it but it was an electrical nightmare too. But I did fix all the issues with that car. They put a control module with 64 wires under the seat and when the sunroof backed up with water it was directed under the seat. I replaced the module and cut and spliced 64 different wires. So, I'm up for the challenge.

Now to everyone else.... I went to Autozone and had the codes scanned. On the way home from that, a NEW light came on the instrument panel. This time it is the regular red BRAKE(!) light. I turned it off and restarted and that light is off again. This all seems like a bad computer, fuse box, instrument cluster but maybe something else.

Here are the codes that were pulled:

P1316
P1638
C1165
C1175
P1000
C1145
P0300
P0303
P0304
P0305

The cylinder misfire codes I don't agree with. Maybe the prior owner stalled the car or had an issue that he didn't clear. Other codes Autozone didn't even know what they were so I'm about to do some googleing. Thank you everyone for reading my long messages and helping me out. I plan to rescue this Jaguar. I don't know why but I've always liked Jaguars and I feel with some electrical work and then later some suspension work it'll be a good car, I hope.

 

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I created a similar fault while repairing which resulted in no speedo abs light on and dashes on the display, while checking for a canbus fault.
Turns out I hadn't plugged the ABS connector back in fully.
So the fault will be abs Module possibly failed, or Connector or wiring to connector.
I bought another ABS module off ebay and it looks as though the black module can be changed (its just screwed on)without changing the casting with the brake pipes. Just plugged the spare module in to test the circuit.
Also check connectors fully seated behind aircon stereo unit. This stops the car starting/turning over.
and connectors behind Dash module. 10 minute job.

 

Thanks Aviaction for the info and advice. Seems on of my fault codes is "Right Rear ABS Sensor".

Ok everyone, I did my homework on these codes and this is what I've come up with.

I'll start with the ones I'm not worried about as much as I think they are related to the exhaust leak.

P0300 - Random Misfire

P1000 - Manifold Control Fuel, Air Meter AUX and Emissions Control

P1316 - Misfire Excess Emission

P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire

P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire

P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
----------------------------------------
OK now for the codes that I think may explain my problems.

P1638 - CAN ECM/INST NETWORK MALFUNCTION......The wire bundle between the ECM and the Instrument Cluster is not always relaying all the information correctly, therefore the ECM is having to look at other sensors to guess at what the correct settings should be. The fix? #1 New Instrument Cluster, #2 New ECM, or #3 replacing the CAN wiring bundle between the ECM and Instrument Cluster. THIS COULD EXPLAIN A LOT OF MY ELECTRICAL ISSUES.

C1165 - Right Rear ABS Sensor - This can cause the ABS light to illuminate and also the speedometer to stop working.

C1175 - LH Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Fault - also read that wheel speed sensor ring could cause this problem.

C1145 - RH Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Based on this, where do you recommend that I start? I want the speedometer working and the brake lights/turn signals to work properly. They do one thing with car off and another thing with car running.

 

Ted, based on your error codes, your speedo and mileage issue is a result of your speed sensor issues. IT is sounding like you either have a bunch of speed sensor issues and the ABS module is not sending the information on to the instrument cluster or the wiring for the speed sensors is damaged and you need to fix the wiring harness. If you can fix the sensor issue, that will fix half of your issues. I would start with that and then we can deal with the other stuff.

 

It really does sound to me as though it is an earthing problem. Break apart, clean up and re-attach every earth that you can find.

 

Thanks Thermo. I saw that you were involved in helping another person with the wheel speed sensors. Do you think in my case it's the sensors themselves or the rings that rot away on the CV halfshafts? Also my instrument cluster lights dim and flicker which believes me to think of the P1638 code that I have which involves the instrument cluster or ECM. And the brake lights and turn signals doing one thing on battery and then act totally different when running would cause me to believe that is related to the P1638 error as well. I still haven't seen a green turn signal indicator light up on my cluster even on battery only. And the brake lights cause certain interior buttons to illuminate when I press on the brake pedal. Is that really related to wheel speed sensors or is it more likely to be related to P1638? Most important to me is to get my brake and turn signal lights working properly. Right now when I put my right turn signal on my left one goes on and when car is running the brake lights light up but very dim. Second thing I want fixed is my speedometer. Are you saying fixing the wheel speed sensors will take care of the ABS sensor error? Another user says the ABS sensor can cause the speedometer to not work and cause ABS light to illuminate which it is. I also don't know why the traction control light is on.

 

Ted, I would start with pulling both rear wheels off and then removing the speed sensors. From there, you can look down the hole with a flash light to see if you spot the rings. It is pretty obvious if the rings are there or not. Since you are there, you can also do a visual of the wiring. But, I am betting that if it is a wiring issue, you are going to find the problem near the ABS module since you have 3 wheels that are not working properly.

The CAN Bus issue can be something as simple as a plug is not in fully. Which if it is on the ABS module, could also explain the wheel speed sensors. If you open up the hood of your car, look down behind the passenger headlight. You should see a control module there. That is the ABS module. Check out that connector and see if you have water in the connector and that the pins of the connector look good. Having bad speed input will affect your ABS, your speedo, and your traction control (the traction control doesn't know what wheel to trust and therefore it gives you the warning light to say that it has essentially given up try to control the slippage).

If you need a wiring diagram for your car, let me know. I will send you an electronic diagram. Send me a PM with your e-mail addy.

 

after reading the replys I have a lil more hope for your cause.
I do agree the main grounds should be checked, and battery checked for 12volts.
It is only a 10 minute job.
And I sure hope it is just a loose connection in the harness.
And not someone hooking the rear speaker leads to the abs sensors and vice versa

 

Thermo, I just unplugged the ABS module. It was not wet but it did have dirt build up in it. The pins looked good but the wiring going to the plug was wrapped in electrical tape. Please tell me that's not factory. I sprayed it all with QB Electronical Cleaner. While it was off I started the car. It is doing even MORE crazy things now. My "open door chime" is only working about 1 out of 5 key turns. The regular brake light in addition to the ABS light is now also coming on about 1 in every 3 key turns. And now, the windshield wipers, though turned off, are coming on when key turned to battery and they stay on even when the car starts for a couple seconds. Today my girlfriend was in town so I had an adult to press the brake pedal. With headlights turned on there are no brake lights lit up. When she presses the brake pedal, there are no brake lights. But the top row of brake lights on top of the rear window are always on, pedal or no pedal. With ABS module unplugged car did not show mileage even at start up. Once plugged back in it did show mileage until it drove for about 10 seconds. The flickering in the instrument cluster happens when I tap the brake pedal. When I turn on lights and back off the odometer does not flicker. Finally, I noticed when I had the key to the battery only on, I noticed a buzzing sound. My ear traced it to the part in the pic that I'll try to attach. Is this normal for this part to make noise while key is in battery position?

 

The part that you circled is the "fly by wire" motor for the throttlebody. It is possible that it will make a little bit of noise as it is a pulse style motor to move the butterfly valve in relation to where the gas pedal is located.

As for the brake lights, try unplugging the connector on the switch for the brake pedal. Does the 3rd brake light go out? If yes, then you have a bad brake pedal switch. If no, then the next thing I would say to do is to remove both tail lights and lay the bulb tray on the trunk floor. Keep the bulb tray plugged in, but remove all the bulbs. Now, does the 3rd brake light still remain lit? If yes, then you have a wiring problem most likely in the harness near the driver's door (tucked between the seat and the door sill, under the carpeting). If no, put in the stop bulb on one side and see if the 3rd brake light comes on? If yes, then you are either not installing the bulb correctly or you have the wrong style bulb installed. If the 3rd brake light is not coming on like you are experiencing when it is failed, try the bfrake pedal to see if the brake light operates normally (they should). You can then install the stop light on the other side of the car. Again, did the 3rd brake light come on and does the brake pedal operate normally.

Something else I would check is the connections inside the tail light plug. There have been a few instances where a plug on one side has gotten water inside of it and it has resulted in corroded pins, leading to really strange problems (sounding kinda familiar?).

Get the brake lights sorted out, then we will deal with the turn signals. It is very possible that you have wrong bulbs installed in a lot of places.

One last thing, you may want to also check the ground wire to make sure it is making a good connection. It is the black wire that if you follow the wire, will attach to the body near the tail light.

 

Thanks Thermo for all the help. This car is frustrating me. Yesterday I disconnected the battery and tested the voltage. It read 12.38Volts. I left both terminals off all night hoping to erase everything. I hooked it up today and I still have the check engine light and ABS and Traction light etc... My lights are different now for again some unknown reason. I waited until night time tonight and I wanted to get this right. OK here is the info on ALL my light issues. Ok, key NOT inserted. I turn headlights on and brake lights come on and 3rd top brake light is NOT illuminated. If I turn on headlights and pull light switch to turn on fog lights, again with no key in ignition, rear brake lights are on but not top 3rd brake light. Here is the part I find odd....the turn signal lights are lit VERY dim, almost unnoticeable. Now when I turn the key to battery ON position and turn lights on, same thing.....brake lights on and no 3rd brake light but turn signal lights lit very dim. But when I pull headlight knob all the way out to turn on fog lights, everything changes. With key in battery ON position and headlights on and knob pulled out, 3rd brake light lights up to full brightness and turn signal lights light up bright yellow but regular brake lights do NOT light up at all and to add, the main tail light brake lights in the lens are the top two red lights on the lens, but there is a little red light at the bottom of the lens that does light up very very dim. This red bottom little light only lights up when the headlight switch is pulled out all the way and the key is to the battery ON position.

Now for pressing on the brake pedal......

When key is in battery ON and NO headlights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the 3rd brake light comes on, the yellow turn signals come on, and then on a slight delay, the TOP red bulbs on the tail light lens come on but not the middle or bottom ones. Now with key on battery ON position and headlights ON and brake pedal pressed, 3rd brake light lights up, yellow turn signals light up, but NO brake lights at all. There is no scenario with headlights on that will make the actual headlights come on.

Related, the interior lights with no key in the ignition, doors closed, and headlights on, instrument cluster lights up and all the buttons illuminate green but as soon as I turn key to battery ON with headlights OFF, the radio screen background illuminates green even though the radio screen doesn't work. But that's lit up without headlights being on. Then still with headlights off I press brake pedal and all the interior light buttons light up and then they go off when I release the brake pedal. But when I press on the brake pedal and all the light buttons go on, the radio screen illumination goes off! When I turn on the headlight switch to ON, all the lights and buttons stay on in car regardless of me pressing the brake pedal.

When I try turn signals now I get nothing, no lights, no tick sounds, no illuminations from cluster. Yet when I try the Hazard button the turn signal lights on front and back illuminate and a cluster light sign illuminates on cluster, not green signal arrows but a yellow light signal. So that is my weird lighting situation. Again sorry for making this long but I want to be detailed. Thanks for all your help!

 

With the multiple random errors you are getting that could even be water getting into in the ECU?

and I thought mine was in need of an exorcism.......

 

Or perhaps the ECU was replaced with the incorrect one, but...

Do the brake lights even operate thru the a module? I thought they were set up in a priority/direct manner for safety.
What is the condition of the CD head unit in the trunk compartment? Is it still there? If not someone could have cut a ground there when it was removed. I would assume it is all in the same harness with the lights etc.

A short in the harness could also be the culprit, a dead short can cook the insulation off the wires in a matter of seconds, if it did happen wires could be touching inside the harness now. And cause symptoms like described.