I would like to replace the valve cover gaskets, etc. and need two things: (1) where to get the "kit" or parts, and (2) a how-to on the procedure.
I thought there was a thread about this but can't seem to find it. I remember reading the thread because it stuck with me that people were saying that the LS1 parts are less expensive but the same as the Jag parts. I did find a thread with a mediafire link, but the link doesn't work - I think it was supposed to be a step-by-step how-to.
My mechanic told me today that it would cost me $1,180 plus tax for him to do it! YIKES!!!! That includes the gasket, plug seals, and the 14 other parts (what are they called?). Seems a bit (a lot) high to me! He said it would take at least 8 hours, but I would think it could be done in a lot less time than that. I told him no!
So, any help would be appreciated. I have a little experience with working on engines, but I'm no expert by a long shot. I can handle a wrench and follow directions, though.
It is the 2001 Lincoln LS1 gasket set, I think. If you have the 4.0L engine that should work. Here is one of the secondary tensioner procedures: experience & pics of replacing the upper cam chain tensioners(2-post with PICS)How To
If you just need to replace gaskets that is a rather easy job, and should take a couple of hours max. It sounds like your mechanic was quoting you a secondary tensioner replacement at the very least.
97 XK8 86K mi
That is the 2000, or '01 Lincoln LS gasket set. FelPro has the complete gasket set for less than $40 at your local auto parts store. I would make the assumption the the '14 parts' are the seals around the bolts which are included in the above mentioned set.
This is a one + hour job with a $10 set of 1/4" sockets. Biggest issue I had was removing the oil dip stick tube which is really not that hard. Need further guidance check here:
if you can't get them from there, get them on ebay. It seriously is easy! Replace your tensioners at the same time if you haven't since you're already in there. My dip stick wasn't even connected and the valve cover came off without any problems.
careful not to loose any bolts, the cam cover bolts usually stay in the cover, held by the rubber o rings. I use a magnetic tray to hold the coil bolts.
You'll also need to Loctite Ultra Grey gasket sealant to put a small blob at the timing cover junction.
Also use a torque wrench to tighten the cam cover bolts back down to 9Nm, over tightening can crack the covers (usually once the engine has warmed up and the main reason they leak in the first place).
Good luck, it's a nice easy job
*2002 XJR 100'S' - Better than new.
(Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery)
*1964 E Type Roadster
*1962 E Type Coupe
*1966 MKII 3.4 m.o.d
Question -- how do I know that I'm getting the right stuff in the gasket set? For example, the JTIS shows spark plug seals that look like O-o-O but the FelPro and partsgeek sets show simple, round seals? Are there possibly two different engines and I need to find the set for my particular engine?
As I said before, I'm concerned because this is my only car right now and I can't afford to tear it apart and then find out I have the wrong parts.
I purchased the Fel-Pro valve cover set VS50724R (Ford, Lincoln 3.9L Engine DOHC 2000-2006) for our 2001 XJ8 from Rock Auto.com totaled $43.89 (includes $8.44 shipping).
Advance Auto Parts price is $64.00, but if you purchase it online, then apply promo code A123 (discount of $20.00) brings it down to $44.00 and use the pickup option for your local store (no shipping costs & you can go pick it up within an hour or more).
Update: Advance Auto Parts price now is $68.00 and promo code A123 no longer usable - but new one - TRT30 is (30% Off Your Order. $50 Maximum Savings Online only).
Last edited by jimlombardi; 03-09-2014 at 07:39 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to jimlombardi For This Useful Post:
UNDER 42 BUCKS SHIPPED TO YOU IN 3 DAYS...I JUST USED THESE ON MY JAG..2002 VDP AND WORKED PERFECTLY...TOOK AWAY A CYLINDER MISFIRE ON MY JAG. WE DID USE SOME SORT OF GASKET SEALANT..CANT REMEMBER THE NAME BC SOME OF THE GASKETS LIKE PLUGGED IN ALMOST WHILE SOME DID NOT SEEM TO STICK THAT WELL..THE BIGGER ONES THAT ARE LIKE 1 LARGE PIECE...ONCE WE DID THAT IT STUCK PERFECTLY. MY DAD WOULD KNOW THE NAME OF THE STUFF IF U NEED IT.
The Fel-Pro VS 50724 R Valve Cover Set includes:
1) Valve cover gasket - Left
1) Valve cover gasket - Right
28) Valve cover grommets
1) Oil tube O ring
4) Valve cover rubber seals
8) Spark Plug tube seals
I finally got around to doing this project. Took my time, went to the parts store twice because they gave me the wrong gasket set the first time. Had to remove the cover after getting it all together and properly torqued because I forgot to use the two dabs of gasket sealer! Put it back together and it works great, no leaks. I only did the passenger's side for now. Might do the driver's side tomorrow, but the passenger's side was the one with the big, stinky, oil leak -- had been smelling burnt oil for a while and noticed smoke coming from under the hood the other day, so I parked the car and drove my other one until I could get the valve cover gasket replaced.
1. I used the Felpro gasket set for the Lincoln LS -- part number VS 50724 R at Advance Auto Parts. It cost around $68 but I had a discount code that gave me $15 off plus a $25 gift card to be emailed to me later this month.
2. The three bolts that are extended for snapping the plastic engine cover on require a deep socket, which I didn't have so I hope I got those torqued right!
3. The plastic connector for the wire that connects to whatever that thing is that sticks through the cam cover broke but just the clip, so it still works okay.
4. The nut on the stud that holds the air filter box down was stuck on the stud and came out stud and all (like it was a bolt). Had to separate the two before I could get it reinstalled.
5. One of the bolts for the cam cover doesn't stay in the hole like the rest of them. Don't know why. It was the top, rear one. I relocated it to the lower front for no particular reason. If it's supposed to be in a particular hole, please let me know and I'll put it there! LOL
6. I took photos but didn't post them since everything looked normal, including the tensioner.
7. Had a bit of oil in the front most spark plug well. Wiped it out. Doubt that it'll be an issue, but will keep an eye on it. I decided to not change the plugs since I just did that a couple years ago.
Thanks for all the help! I couldn't have done this alone!
2003 XJ8 Zircon (AGD int) 2003 V6 S-Type Zircon
The Following User Says Thank You to OldMike For This Useful Post:
On the left side, the sticking point, for many, is the dip stick. I cut an "alley way" with a hack saw. Be careful not to drop anything inside the head, there is a large opening at the front where bits will fall into the oil pan, some use an oil rag to stop any thing (don't leave the rag in the engine -- while back, somebody had an oil pressure issue, opened the pan and found a shop rag). The other concern is the plastic water line from the tank to the radiator, very fragile. You would not waste money buying a deep well 10mm and deep well 5/16 socket; need them for every job, it seems. Harbor Freight practically gives dep well socket sets away.
2001 XJ8L (308) British Racing Green 71000 miles - new secondary tensioners, brake pads, shocks and bushings, water pump,thermostat and housing, hoses and belt and tensioner. F35063
08 Range Rover Sport SC (sold); 08 LR 3 (discovery 3) (traded); 05 LR 3 4.2 (traded);04 Z4 (sold);01 XJ8 anthracite (for LR 3); 98 Z3 (traded on Z4);
01 S-type 4.0 V8 (traded on XJ8);99 323 IC (traded on S-type); 94 Deville (traded); 88 325 IS (sold)
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Thanks Jim -- I almost went out to get a deep 10mm socket but just didn't feel like making another trip to the store! I did look at Home Depot and the two auto parts stores that I went to and didn't see any.