I own a 2004 VDP. Can anyone share any details on actually performing the transmission oil change?

Do i need anything besides the pan gasket and oil? Any special procedures? Is it just a pull the pan and refill?

Also, how many of us have actually changed it at the recommended service intervals? My family used to run an Aamco Transmission store about 25 years ago, my dad always told me to never open an automatic transmission unless its giving you trouble...

Thanks for your input.

 

The ZF6HP26 is a sealed transmission and there is no scheduled service for it. The filter for this transmission is actually built into the pan. So if you plan was to change the filter and throw fresh fluid in there I suspect you'll have to buy an entire new composite/rubber pan. They are also a little tricky to fill because they don't have a dipstick or fill tube, just a fill plug.

I personally would take your dad's advice. If it's not giving you trouble leave it alone. If it is giving you trouble, it's going to require something a lot more serious than a fluid & filter change.

Eric

 

Eric, thank you very much for your advice (its what i wanted to hear, of course). The only reason I keep asking the question is because in the owner manual, it says the change the fluid at 60k miles.

 

I disagree with the "don't open it unless it's broken" theory.

Why would you want to have old, dirty oil running in your tranny is beyond me (and I've heard those "old wives tales also).

How about when the car is new and it has fresh oil in it? Is it more prone to failure since the oil is fresh?

If not, why not? Why would old oil be better for the tranny than new, fresh oil?
I would like to hear a real reason what "bad" does an oil change to do a transmission? Do the parts, metal surfaces start "missing" the old oil once it's changed or why is it a good idea to not to change it?

I want to hear real reasoning, repeating "don't open it because someone said so" is not good enough of a reason.

Every oil "breaks" after certain amount of time and when it does, it doesn't do it's job as well as it used to do and is meant to do. Plus you have small particles in the oil which cause more wear & tear.

 

Well flying finn, I would love to get into this topic more. From what whiteSTR is saying above, it sounds like it's just like my muncie 4-speed, but with a filter and a pan to drain the oil.

So, can anybody get into details of changing the oil?

 

I believe the reason is that the fluid wears with the transmission. When you put new fluid in an old transmission, the new fluid has fresh detergent additives that can literally wipe the clutches out. I doubt this is very much an issue on newer low milege cars. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong..

-David

 

Changing transmission fluid is a good idea, fresh fluid will only help. Flushing an old dirty auto tranny can be problematic since the process can dislodge debris. These trannies should have the oil changed at 60K miles for a long happy life, otherwise they are a 100k tranny. The cost at the dealer is around $1000 due to the $50/qt oil cost for 12 qts and the filter is around $200. The process involves the Jag computer to monitor in the internal fluid temp during the process. Since there is no dipstick, the temps must accurately set the level. The lifetime fluid has a lifetime of about 60-80K before it is worn out.

 

God, I read every post on this site regarding ZF 6-speed fluid type and changing. I am more confused than ever. I called my dealer just to see what they would say on my 2004 xj8. They said the fluid is good to 100k miles and that it took $2,000 and 18 quarts of oil to replace. Every person you talk to or post you read is inconsistent. The ZF site itself says to replace between 80,000km & 100,000km (75k miles max). Who is right and who is wrong. Just want to stir this up some more and hopefully the truth will prevail.

 

I would love for someone to go into more detail in actually performing the task of changing the oil. I am not/will not be bringing mine in to the dealer and would really appreciate some details!

 

The most common way to change the fluid is to connect the oil lines to a machine that collects the old fluid. Once out, you drop the pan and change the filter. You then use the machine to pump in fluid through the feed line from the oil cooler. It can get tricky because the level must be tested hot. The machine only pumps in the amount of fluid it pulls out. So, if you were low to begin with, you will be low after the refill. The level must be manually checked.

Change the oil at or near the recommended (60k to 80k) mileage. If you've allowed the fluid to go longer, then don't mess with it. The post about the clutches is dead on if you've allowed the fluid to age too much.

As an aside, we sell the fluid for $15.21 per quart.

 

All I know for sure is when my XJ8 hits 60K mark, I'm changing the oil & filter.

 

hey do you ship this ?

a fluid change for me is on the near horizon, so if you dont mind pm'ing me a shipped to 11204 cost for 12qts and a pan gasket.

 

clif smith heres some information ive gather regarding your questions.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...7&d=1252688038

9.4litres(10qts) + .5litre(.53 qts) for cooling system

part # for a 1litre bottle of oil - S671 090 255 zf lifeguard 6
part # for a 20l jug- S671 090 253 zf lifeguard 6

ive read an email response from zf to a board member soemwhere online saying that " sealed for life " , the "life" should be taken as warranteed period of time , and that the fluid should be swapped out after 100k km or 60k m.

the adobe attachment also shows where the drain and refill bolt are on the transmission in digital photos.

a good way to know when the car is at operating temp is to start it and run untill the cooling fan cycles twice, shut the car off and its at the required temperature.

to fill you can route a garden hose from the engine bay down to the filler hole, and feed the hose with a funnel like an IV.

if you want draining info, unbolt the drain bolt > then remove the pan > the torque converter has a drain bolt > remove it and drain > put everything back together and fill to proper level.

again this is just narrowed down and said to be proven. info ive gather through many forums, i havent done this to this particular vehicle yet so excercise caution.

alot of the info ive gotten from posts by the certified techs here, involved alot of searching but thanks for the information to all certified tech heres.
-Vic


heres a link for the tsb page where the pdf was sourced from

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=24503

and heres a link to the general info thread , i posted on the bottom very usefull links regarding the zf 6speed for parts and info.

the pdf's are also on zf website

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11249

Quote:

Originally Posted by StrateLoss

heres a few links ive gather around from searching and searching.

transmission rebuild kits- http://www.transtarindustries.com/

step by step rebuild manuals for transmission- http://www.atsg.com/

transmission service kits and bits- http://www.pelicanparts.com/euro/cat..._pg1.htm#item1

zf fluids and kits- http://www.tsgparts.net/index.php?p=...=140&parent=73

another site for the transmission filter pan- http://www.tsgparts.net/index.php?p=...=140&parent=73


transmission fluid alternative - http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf

 

The procedure calls for lifting the car horizontally, then removing the fill plug and drain plugs and draining the fluid. Remove and replace the filter pan unit and gasket, install the drain plug in it. Then fill the tranny with 8 qts of fluid through the fill hole and then start the engine, , running it for at least 2 minutes , then running it through each gear for at least 3 seconds and then checkling that the fluid temp is below 86 deg F. I suggest an infrared temp guage focused on the tranny oil pan. Then begin adding fluid through the fill hole until it starts to run out, ensure the fluid temp is below 122 deg F. If all is well, you are done, install the fill plug. If the oil temp ever goes over 122 deg F, stop and let it cool and check again. This information is from Alldata.com.

 

Hi, this is my first post to this forum, and I hope I am adding a little value. I just purchased a 2004 XJR, with 62k miles. It's pristine and I love it so far. I did some research, and called ZF North America directly 1-847-478-6868. Spoke with a very nice gentleman name Steve, knows the ZF6HP26 very well. He said the ZF LifeGuard 6 Fluid or the BMW Trans Fluid for a 2004 6spd BMW can be used instead of the Jaguar Mineral Oil ($51 per litre at my local Jag dealer). The BMW fluid is $34 per pint at my local BMW dealer, so I'll pass on them. Steve gave me a distributor for the ZF fluid, since it is hard to get. I spoke with a gentleman name Nat at Erickson Industries 1-800-388-4418; they are a distrbutor for ZF Transmissions and fluids. Nat said the fluid can ordered through him for $23.12 per quart. Nat also said this fluid is the same as the Shell M1375.4. This is a much better alternative to the Jag dealer. Hope this helps.

 

10-14-09, 9 AM CST - Castrol Online chat

AL2: The year, make and model of the vehicle are required for us to provide an ATF recommendation.
mark: 2004 Jaguar Vanden Plas, with the ZF 6HP26 6 speed transmission
AL2: Please hold for one moment while I look into that for you.
mark: thank you
AL2: Is there another name for that particular Jaguar model (i.e. XJ6, XJ8, XJR) ?
mark: yes, it is similar to the XJ8
AL2: Unfortunately our guide does not offer a recommendation for a Jaguar Vanden Plas and as per our guide for a 2004 Jaguar XJ8, a special fluid is recommended for use which can be obtained from your local Jaguar dealer.
mark: so - nothing from Castrol?
AL2: Unfortunately we are not recommending the use of any of our ATF's.
AL2: You're welcome.
AL2: Have a great day! Castrol appreciates your business!

 

hit up bimmerforums, castrol recommends the multi import vehicle atf for zf 6speed transmissions. use google it will bring the results in.

either way, my transmission is shifting very smooth now.

 

Hello I know old thread maybe anyone can chime in, I have a 2011 XJL 5.0 and looking to drain all the transmission fluid and add filter. I'm assuming there is no dipstick so i will measure everything that comes out and refill the same, is there maybe a drain plug on the pan or just drop the pan and make a complete mess?,, Any hints would be appreciated.

 

Well, posting in the sub-forum for 2011 XJ https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x351-53/ would be a good starting point; this forum is for XJs 2003 to 2009 (ie the X350/358).

 

Bri's Jag you have posted multiple times and the entire procedure is laid out in all it's details at the top of this forum?
Have you looked at it?

No the way you mentioned is NOT the way to do it! Please read Don's great fluid changing guide.
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